Lonely Planet Laos
Page 30
Nam Lik Eco-VillageBUNGALOW$$
(%020-55508719; http://namlik.org/eco; s/d US$30/40)S
Nam Lik Eco-Village is a riverside resort located on the west bank of the Nam Lik (Lik River) and makes a good base for outdoor activities such as orchid walks, kayaking in the river or mountain biking on fixed trails. It's located 7km east of the Ban Senhxoum, itself just past the Km 80 marker.
Nirvana Archipel ResortBUNGALOW$$
(%020-54894272; www.nirvana-archipel-resort.com; Ban Tha Heua; camping 25,000K, bungalows 100,000-200,000K, f US$40-130; aW)S
Overlooking Ang Nam Ngum, this quirky eco-resort is made from reclaimed timbers and petrified wood from the reservoir. Accommodation includes twin bungalows (cheaper ones with shared bathroom), and some impressive family houses and bungalows with two rooms that can sleep up to eight or more. There is an on-site wildlife rescue centre, with proceeds going towards helping the animals.
Nam NgeumLAOTIAN$
(%020-55513521; Ban Na Khuen; mains 20,000-60,000K; h9am-9pm)
One of a handful of restaurants at Ban Na Khuen, Nam Ngeum gets good reviews for its tasty gôy Ъąh (tart and spicy fish salad), gąang Ъąh (fish soup) and neung Ъąh (steamed fish with fresh herbs).
8Getting There & Away
It's easier to access most places around Ang Nam Ngum with your own transport. Public transport is convenient for the resorts near Ban Tha Heua, but not so straightforward for other destinations.
Getting to Ban Tha Heua is easy as it's on the main road between Vientiane and Vang Vieng. Heading north you'll probably have to pay the full fare to Vang Vieng. Heading south from Vang Vieng, you may be able to get away with a lower sŏrngtăaou fare of around 10,000K.
For Ban Na Kheun, buses depart Vientiane's Talat Sao Bus Station for Thalat (15,000K, 2½ hours, 87km), the nearest town, every hour from 6.30am to 5.30pm; you'll then need to arrange a sŏrngtăaou (passenger trucks) to Ban Na Kheun (costing about 15,000K). Salapa Fisherman's Haven can arrange pick-ups from Thalat if you're staying there.
Nam Lik Eco-Village can provide transport with advance bookings. Otherwise, take a bus to Vang Vieng and get off at Ban Senhxoum (25,000K, three hours) and seek local transport for the remaining 7km.
WORTH A TRIP
SAISOMBUN SPECIAL ZONE & LONG CHENG
North of Hin Hoep, at the market village of Ban Tha Heua, you'll reach the turn-off to the (Former) Saisombun Special Zone. After more than 30 years as a no-go zone, due to an armed insurgency by Hmong rebels that has persisted since 1975, the Saisombun Special Zone is no longer required, according to the Lao government. The zone was actually a 4506-sq-km area of rugged mountains and plateaus at the northeast corner of Vientiane Province, stretching into Xieng Khuang Province. It was established because the area is home to a large population of Hmong, and was the home of Long Cheng, the 'secret city' from where the Hmong and CIA operated during the Second Indochina War.
War buffs may be interested in visiting Long Cheng, but what remains of the former base (now a Lao military base) is still very much off limits, especially after an engineer working on the Chinese-run Phu Bia (Laos' highest mountain) mine was shot by a suspected Hmong insurgent. So much for 'Visit Saisombun Province 2015' – it's going to be some time before tourism takes off in the former special zone.
Vang Vieng ວັງວຽງ
Pop 35,000 / %023
Like a rural scene from an old Asian silk painting, Vang Vieng (ວັງວຽງ) crouches low over the Nam Song (Song River) with a backdrop of serene cliffs and a tapestry of vivid green paddy fields. Thanks to the Lao government closing the river rave bars in 2012, the increasingly toxic party scene has been driven to the fringes and the community is rebooting itself as an adrenaline-fuelled adventure destination with some impressive accommodation options on tap. While the town itself is no gem, as concrete hotels build ever higher in search of the quintessential view, across the Nam Song lies a rural idyll.
Spend a few days here – rent a scooter, take a motorcycle tour, go tubing or trekking – and soak up one of Laos' most stunningly picturesque spots. But explore with care and enjoy it sober, as the river and mountains around Vang Vieng have claimed too many travellers' lives already.
Vang Vieng
2Activities, Courses & Tours
1Adam's Rock Climbing SchoolB3
2Green DiscoveryC2
3Nam Thip ToursC2
Pony Trekking Vang ViengB3
4TCKC2
5Tubing OperatorsC2
6Vang Vieng Adventure ToursC2
Vang Vieng ChallengeC2
7Vang Vieng Jeep TourA4
8VLTB2
9Wonderful ToursC2
Yoga in Vang ViengB3
4Sleeping
10Central Backpacker's HostelC2
11Champa LaoC1
12Chez MangoA4
13Domon GuesthouseC1
14Easy Go HostelC1
15Elephant CrossingB3
16Inthira HotelC2
17Khamphone Guest HouseC3
18Maylyn Guest HouseA3
19Pan's PlaceC3
20Real Backpackers HostelC2
21Riverside Boutique ResortB4
22Silver NagaB3
23Thavonsouk ResortB3
24Vieng Tara VillaA3
25Villa Nam SongB3
26Villa Vang Vieng RiversideB4
27Vinutda GuesthouseB3
5Eating
28Amigos Vang ViengC2
29Breakfast VendorsC2
30Cafe Eh EhB3
31Grilled-Meat VendorC2
32Il TavoloD3
33Le Café De ParisC3
34Living RoomC1
35Mitthaphap FusionC1
36Pizza LukaC3
37Restaurant du Crabe d'OrB4
38Sababa Organic RestaurantB3
39Sabaidee BurgerC1
40The KitchenC2
41Veggie TablesC2
6Drinking & Nightlife
EarthC1
42Gary's Irish BarC2
43Kangaroo Sunset BarC2
44Sakura BarD2
8Information
45Agricultural Promotion BankC3
46Banque pour le Commerce Extérieur LaoC2
47BCELC3
48BCELC2
1Sights & Activities
Vang Vieng has evolved into Laos' number-one adventure destination, with tubing, kayaking, rafting, mountain biking and world-class rock climbing all available. You can also explore the many caves that pepper the karst limestone peaks, while ziplining is also very popular, with several zipline adventures combining some cave exploration with a river splashdown.
Caves
Of the most accessible tàm (caves), most are signed in English as well as Lao, and an admission fee is collected at the entrance to each cave. The caves around Vang Vieng are spectacular, but caves come with certain hazards: they're dark, slippery and disorienting. A guide (often a young village boy) will lead you through a cave for a small fee; bring water and a torch (flashlight), and be sure your batteries aren't about to die. In fact, bearing in mind some of the 'lost in the darkness' horror stories that circulate, it's vital to have a spare torch.
For more extensive multicave tours, most guesthouses can arrange a guide. Trips including river tubing and cave tours cost around US$15/25 for a half-/full day.
Tham NamCAVE
(5000K)
Tham Nam is the highlight of the cluster of caves near Vang Vieng. The cave is about 500m long and a tributary of the Nam Song flows out of its low entrance. It's about 400m south of Tham Hoi, along a well-used path.
Tham JangCAVE
(ຖ້ຳຈັງ GOOGLE MAP ; entry incl footbridge fee 17,000K)
The most famous of the caves around Vang Vieng, Tham Jang was used as a bunker to defend against marauding jęen hór (Yunnanese Chinese) in the early 19th century (jąng means ‘steadfast’). Stairs lead up to the main cavern entrance.
Tham HoiCAVE
(combined entry 10,000K)
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br /> The entrance to Tham Ho is guarded by a large Buddha figure; reportedly the cave continues about 3km into the limestone and an underground lake. The combined entry fee covers all the caves in the Tham Sang area.
It's reached via a signed path from Tham Sang that takes you 1km northwest through rice fields.
Tham Phu KhamCAVE
(ຖ້ຳພູຄຳ, Blue Lagoon 10,000K)
The vast Tham Phu Kham is considered sacred by Lao and is popular largely due to the lagoon in the cave. The beautiful green-blue waters are perfect for a dip after the stiff climb. The main cave chamber contains a Thai bronze reclining Buddha, and from here deeper galleries branch off into the mountain.
Tham LoupCAVE
(combined entry 10,000K)
Tham Loup is a large and delightfully untouched cavern with some impressive stalactites. The combined entry fee covers all the caves in the Tham Sang area.
The entrances to the cave are reached from Tham Sang via a signed path that takes you 1km northwest through rice fields.
Tubing
Virtually every younger traveller who comes to Vang Vieng goes tubing down the Nam Song in an inflated tractor-tyre tube. The tubing drop-off point is 3.5km north of town, and depending on the speed and level of the river it can be a soporific crawl beneath the jungle-vined karsts, or a speedy glide downstream back to Vang Vieng. Since the river bars shut in 2012 there's less chance of getting plastered and losing your balance in dangerous currents, but always wear a life jacket when the river runs fast (even if you're not floating in an alternative universe). The many stories of travellers who have drowned in this seemingly peaceful river don't make for pleasant reading. Whether tubing or kayaking down the Nam Song, rivers can be dangerous, and in times of high water, rapids along the Nam Song can be quite daunting. When tubing, it's worth asking how long the trip should take (durations vary depending on the time of year) so you can allow plenty of time to get back to Vang Vieng before dark, as it's pitch black by about 6pm in winter. Finally, don't forget that while tubing the Nam Song might be more fun when you're stoned, it's also more dangerous.
The tubing operators ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8.30am-7pm) have formed a cartel so all tubing is organised from a small building across from where the old market once was. It costs 55,000K to rent a tube and there's a 60,000K refundable deposit. Life jackets are available and you can rent a dry bag for 20,000K. The fee includes transport to the tubing drop-off point, but keep in mind that you must return the tube before 6pm, otherwise you'll have to pay a 20,000K late fee. If you lose your tube, you will forfeit the 60,000K deposit.
The other thing you should remember is to take something – a sarong, perhaps – to put on when you finish the trip and have to walk through town. The locals don't appreciate people walking around in bikinis or Speedos.
Kayaking
Kayaking is almost as popular as tubing, and trips are typically combined with other activities such as visits to caves and villages, optional climbing, cycling, and the traverse of a few rapids (the danger of which depends on the speed of the water). There are loads of operators and prices are about US$15 per person per day. Kayaking trips to Vientiane along the Nam Lik (Lik River) are conducted by the excellent Green Discovery ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-511230; www.greendiscoverylaos.com; Th Luang Prabang; 1-day cycling tour per person US$25-35, half-/full-day rock climbing US$27/36), which also runs kayaking adventures on the Nam Song, and involve a lot of paddling. These are only possible post-monsoon, when the water is sufficiently high.
Another useful tour operator for kayaking is the well-established VLT.
Rock Climbing
In just a few years the limestone walls around Vang Vieng have gained a reputation for some of the best climbing in Southeast Asia. More than 200 routes have been identified and most have been bolted. The routes are rated between 4a and 8b, with the majority being in or near a cave. The most popular climbing spots are at Tham Non (Sleeping Cave), with more than 20 routes, and the tougher Sleeping Wall nearby, where some routes have difficult overhangs.
The climbing season usually runs between October and May, with most routes too wet at other times. However, there are some rock-shaded overhangs on Phadeng Mountain that have recently been bolted down (23 routes), and can still be used in the wet season.
Adam's Rock Climbing School ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-56564499; www.laos-climbing.com; opposite the hospital; half-/full-day climbing 180,000/260,000K, 2-day course US$100, private climbing guide 320,000K) offers fully outfitted courses ranging in skill from beginner to advanced. Adam himself is one of the most experienced climbers in the area, his multilingual guides get good reports and equipment rental is also available (350,000K).
Green Discovery conducts climbing courses (half-/full day around US$27/36), and when available, can provide a handy climbing guide to the area.
Ziplining
It’s all about air and cable these days, with the jungles around Vang Vieng criss-crossed with adrenaline-inducing ziplines.The following tour outfits combine a trek, kayak, abseil or tubing session with zipping:
Nam Thip Tours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-23333616, 023- 511318; h9am-7pm)
TCK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-511691; tckamazingtour@gmail.com; h9am-8pm)
Vang Vieng Adventure Tours (AK Home Ziplining; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-55033665; http://vangviengadventure.wixsite.com/home; opposite Vansana Hotel; half-/full day US$25/35)
Vang Vieng Challenge
Wonderful Tours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-511566; www.wonderfultourslaos.la; Th Khann Muang)
Other Activities
oHot Air BallooningBALLOONING
(www.vangviengtour.com/balloon-over-vangvieng; flight US$95)
A hot air balloon is a lovely way to see the cliffs, tapestry of paddy fields and snaking river below. The flights are at 6.30am, 4pm and 4.30pm every day, and last 40 minutes. To book contact Mr Vone at VLT.
Blue Lagoon 3SWIMMING
Forget the circus that is the original Blue Lagoon and head 14km further west to the Blue Lagoon 3, part of the West Vang Vieng Loop. The azure waters are fed by a natural spring that emerges from a nearby karst limestone peak and it is still relatively quiet compared with its more infamous namesake.
Pony Trekking Vang ViengHORSE RIDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %030-5074524; reservations@silvernaga.com; c)
Pony trekking is now available amid the karsts of Vang Vieng. Short led rides are available for smaller children without experience, and longer rides out to rice fields, farms and caves are also possible.
Yoga in Vang ViengYOGA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Silver Naga; per session US$10, for 2 sessions US$15; h7.30-9am & 5-6.30pm)S
Daily yoga sessions are available at the Silver Naga hotel with an experienced international yoga instructor.
VLTOUTDOORS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-511369; www.vangviengtour.com)
Run by Vone, VLT is well established and charges US$13 to US$35 for one day's kayaking, US$25 for one-day mountain-bike trips, and US$20 for one-day treks to local caves, including lunch.
Vang Vieng Jeep TourSCENIC DRIVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-54435747; noedouine@yahoo.fr; minimum group of 4, per person 180,000K)
Based at Chez Mango guesthouse, VV Jeep Tour takes in the best of the countryside in friendly Noé's jeep; first he'll take you to a nearby mountain that you'll gently ascend for an amazing view, then for a walk in the paddy fields followed by a swim in the Blue Lagoon at Tham Phu Kham, before taking a closer look at the cave.
WORTH A TRIP
THE THAM SANG TRIANGLE
A popular half-day trip that's easy to do on your own takes in Tham Sang plus Tham Hoi, Tham Loup and Tham Nam, all within a short walk. Begin this caving odyssey by riding a motorcycle or taking a jumbo 13km north along Rte 13, turning left a few hundred metres beyond the barely readable Km 169 stone.
A rough road leads to the river, where you cross a toll bridge (5000K), or during the wet season, a boatman wil
l ferry you across to Ban Tham Sang (20,000K return). Tham Sang itself is right here, as is a small restaurant.
Tham Sang, meaning 'Elephant Cave', is a small cavern containing a few Buddha images and a Buddha 'footprint', plus the (vaguely) elephant-shaped stalactite that gives the cave its name. It's best visited in the morning when light enters the cave.
From Tham Sang a path takes you about 1km northwest through rice fields to the entrances of Tham Hoi and Tham Loup. The path isn't entirely clear, but the local kids are happy to show you the way for a small fee. The entrance to Tham Hoi is guarded by a large Buddha figure; reportedly the cave continues about 3km into the limestone and an underground lake. Tham Loup is a large and delightfully untouched cavern with some impressive stalactites.
About 400m south of Tham Hoi, along a well-used path, is the highlight of this trip, Tham Nam. The cave is about 500m long, and a tributary of the Nam Song (Song River) flows out of its low entrance. In the dry season you can wade into the cave, but when the water is higher you need to take a tube from the friendly woman near the entrance; the tube and headlamp are included in the entrance fee. Dragging yourself through the tunnel on the fixed rope is fun.
If you've still got the energy, a path leads about 2km south from Tham Nam along a stream to Tham Pha Thao, a cave said to be a couple of kilometres long with a pool in the middle. Otherwise, it's an easy 1km walk back to Ban Tham Sang. This loop is usually included in the kayaking/trekking/tubing combo trip run by most Vang Vieng tour operators.
4Sleeping