Lonely Planet Laos
Page 44
8Sekong can be a useful lunch or overnight stop, though few rate it highly as a tourist destination. Some 16km and 19km south of Sekong respectively are the short but beautiful 9Tat Faek and aTat Hua Khon waterfalls. Accommodation is available at both for those who want to bypass Sekong.
At Ban Benghuakham, 6km south of Hua Khon waterfall, is the road to Paksong, but skip it for now and continue another 49km south to bAttapeu, a boring, but not unpleasant town with fantastic sunsets. Plus, there are old temples and impressive war junk to be found in nearby villages.
Banish the urge to go rogue by following Rte 18A to the south of the Bolaven Plateau back to Champasak Province. This road, if you can still call it that, remains impassable to regular traffic and shouldn't be attempted without first reading trip reports on www.gt-rider.com and then making an honest assessment of your motorcycling skills. There are several river crossings that lack ferries, and the rough road forks frequently
From Attapeu head back to Ban Benghuakham (better known simply as Ban Lak 52) and head west. Until recently this stretch was a rugged ride with little or no traffic that passed through pristine jungle; but alas, the jungle is pristine no more. There is still, however, some beautiful scenery as you quickly climb through a valley up the plateau.
After 16.5km you pass the spectacular Tat Katamtok, but don't visit without getting an update on the current safety situation in Pakse first. It's another 8km, partly on a dirt road with some rough spots (if you're driving a car, not a motorcycle, you'll have to go the long way around), to the almost Edenic cTayicseua, one of the Bolaven's most relaxing spots.
Once you're ready to head back to civilisation, it's 44km to dPaksong, the Bolaven's charmless coffee capital. After Paksong, you will pass four impressive waterfalls – Tat Gneuang, Tat Fan, Tat Champee and Tat E-Tu – before you end up back in Pakse.
Attapeu ອັດຕະປື
Pop 19,200 / %036
The capital of Attapeu Province, set where the Se Kong (Kong River) and the smaller Se Kaman (Kaman River) meet, is an unexciting, but not unpleasant place. Around Laos, Attapeu (ອັດຕະປື) is known as the 'garden village' for its abundant trees and shrubbery.
This reputation is deserved, though quite ironic given that Attapeu actually means 'buffalo shit'. In the old local Mon-Khmer dialect, this area was called itkapu (ait krapeau in contemporary Khmer) because of the many wild buffalo living in the area. With some subsequent adjustment in pronunciation by the French, the town became Attapeu.
Despite any hope inspired by the greenery, the town itself is short on attractions, though the nearby temples at Saisettha and war junk in Pa-Am are interesting.
A Vietnamese phrasebook will be just as useful as a Lao dictionary since about half the population is Vietnamese.
History
The province has hosted an important trading route since the Chenla period and some of their Khmer-style brick prasat (square-based brick stupas) have been found in the jungles near the Vietnam border. It was later brought into the Lan Xang kingdom and at that time was known for being rich in gold and forest products. In the 16th century, it saw the demise of King Setthathirat. Historians believe the Lan Xang regent upset the locals and members of his court in Vientiane when, on an expedition to the area, he kidnapped a local woman and hauled her off to Vientiane. After getting her pregnant he returned to Attapeu to settle things down, but wound up dead instead. The district of Saisettha, just outside Attapeu city, is named after him and he is believed to be buried at a Buddhist temple there.
More recent history is just as violent. Important branches of the Ho Chi Minh Trail ran through Attapeu during the Second Indochina War and the province was heavily bombed.
Attapeu (Samakhi Xai)
1Sights
1Attapeu Provincial MuseumC3
4Sleeping
2Dúc Lôc HotelD4
3Phoutthavong GuesthouseC4
4Sokpaserd RiversideD4
5Soukdaoxay GuesthouseD3
5Eating
6Huean Phae Nang GulapC4
7Sabaidee AttapeuC2
Thi Thi RestaurantD4
8Information
8BCELB2
Thi Thi Money ExchangeD4
Transport
9Lao AirlinesB2
10Mai Linh ExpressD4
1Sights
Attapeu's standard attractions are pretty ho-hum, but the sunsets down by the river can be fantastic. Indeed, the city's most interesting sights are not in Attapeu at all: a visit to the villages of Saisettha and Pa-Am makes a great half-day trip, while the beautiful volcanic crater lake Nong Fa (Sky Blue Lake) in Dong Amphan NPA is more challenging to reach, but worth the effort.
Attapeu Provincial MuseumMUSEUM
(ຫໍພິພິດທະພັນແຂວງອັດຕະປື MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Samakhy Rd; h8.30-11.30am & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri)F
This large, elegant building holds a small humdrum collection with a few old rocks, weapons and UXO, plus countless photos of local dignitaries. The only things that make it worth a quick visit, other than the price, are the tribal displays. Too bad nobody bothered to give them better labels.
4Sleeping
Sokpaserd RiversideGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-210088; Khunlong Rd; r 100,000K; aW)
Good-quality rooms (with newer ones under construction) at a fair price. Though it's across the street from, rather than on, the Se Kong, you can see the river through the trees from some of the rooms and a second-floor patio.
Soukdaoxay GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-22900054; r/f 100,000/200,000K; aW)
The rooms in this eye-catching pink building on the Se Kong river north of the centre are relatively new and good value. Three of the second-floor rooms in back have nice river views.
5Eating
Huean Phae Nang GulapLAOTIAN, THAI$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Khunlong Rd; mains 20,000-70,000K; h9am-11pm; W)
Down on the river with beautiful views, 'Ms. Rose's Raft' is great for a sundowner. The food is good, though only a tiny section of the menu is in English. Just order any common Lao or Thai dish and they can probably make it. The spicy tom sap with fish (labelled as 'a sweet and sour soup') is a good, safe Lao choice.
Sabaidee AttapeuLAOTIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 25,000-70,000K; h8am-8.30pm; aW)
It's all about the setting here, in a converted wooden house with a broad deck overlooking the Se Kong and the distant mountains. The menu features grilled and fried meats galore, but also lighter dishes such as a delicious spicy papaya salad.
Thi Thi RestaurantVIETNAMESE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 18A; mains 15,000-35,000K; h6am-9pm; W)
The Dúc Lôc Hotel's restaurant serves some of the best Vietnamese food in town. Various fish dishes and soups, plus fried rice and fĕr (rice noodles) grace the menu.
8Information
Money
Banks, including the full-service BCEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 18A; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri), line Rte 18A, but there are no ATMs in the city centre. More convenient than the banks is Thi Thi Money Exchange ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 18A; h6am-8pm).
Post
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Samakhy Rd; h8-11.30am & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
Tourist Information
There is an official Attapeu Tourist Information Center ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-98976475; Kengxai Rd; h8-11.30am & 1.30-4pm Mon-Fri), but if you really want to do some exploring stop by the Dokchampa Hotel instead. It doesn't promote much, due to the lack of tourists, but staff can arrange guides and vehicles.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Attapeu now has an airport (25km outside the city) and Lao Airlines ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %036-210195; Rte 18A; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) offers a biweekly Vientiane–Pakse–Attapeu–Vientiane flight (Vientiane to/from Attapeu is 820,000K), though this is highly subject to change.
Bus
Buses to/from Pakse (fan/air-con 45,000/50,000K, 3½ to
five hours) run hourly, with about half using the direct Paksong (35,000–40,000K, 2½ hours) route and half passing through Sekong (20,000K, two hours). Five of them go all the way to Vientiane (regular 140,000–170,000K, sleeper 220,000K, 16 to 18 hours). There's also a morning bus to Salavan (50,000, 4½ hours). All buses leave from the station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rte 11).
Mai Linh Express ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-98302222; Rte 18A), at the Dúc Lôc Hotel, also has morning minibuses to Kon Tum (60,000K, five hours), Danang (150,000K, nine hours) and Hué (140,000K, 12 hours).
GETTING TO VIETNAM: PHOU KEUA TO BO Y
Getting to the border Though few foreigners take this route, there are several morning minibuses daily from Pakse to Kom Tun (160,000K, nine hours), all of which stop for a quick break in Attapeu about 10am. All of the companies pick up more passengers in Attapeu (to Kon Tum 60,000K, four hours), mostly at or near the Dúc Lôc Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-99822334; Rte 18A; r 100,000K; aW), which is the base for Mai Linh Express. Rte 18B after Attapeu is a dramatic mountain road that runs 113km to the Bo Y (Vietnam)/Phou Keua (Laos) crossing. The second half is all uphill and landslides are common during the wet season.
At the border The Vietnamese side of the border (open 6am to 7pm) is built up while the Lao side is utilitarian. Formalities on both sides are easy since there is little traffic. Most people need to get a Vietnamese visa beforehand. In the other direction, Lao visas are available to all.
Moving on From Kon Tum there are connections to pretty much everywhere, including Hué and Ho Chi Minh City.
8Getting Around
Attapeu Taxi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %030-9393939; h24hr) charges 8000K for the first kilometre and 7000K per kilometre after this up to 20km. Negotiate prices for any longer trip.
Tuk-tuks from the bus station to the city centre cost 10,000K per person, or 20,000K if you're alone. Phoutthavong Guesthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %020-5551 7870; r with fan/air-con 60,000/90,000K; a) hires bicycles for 20,000K per day.
There's a petrol station ( GOOGLE MAP ) near the centre of town.
Around Attapeu
SaisetthaVILLAGE
(ໄຊເຊດຖາ )
Saisettha, 11km east of Attapeu on Rte 18B, is a sizeable village on the north bank of the Se Kaman (Kaman River). It used to be a small, quiet village with a good vibe, but it's mostly outgrown that; however, art lovers will appreciate some of the temples here.
Just past the Houay Phateun Bridge, turn right to the peaceful riverfront Wat Siliawat That Inping (aka Wat Fang Daeng), which has a large octagonal stupa. Inside the adjacent hall is a rather complete set of paintings telling the Wetsandon Jataka (the Buddha's penultimate birth) tale.
Just over a kilometre to the east, at the end of the road, the sala (open-sided shelter) of Wat Ban Xai has more adroit mural paintings, focusing mostly on the Buddha's life story. The old ubosot (ordination hall) has some original floral stucco work on the front.
From Wat Ban Xai, go back to the highway and continue east. Take a sharp right at the first large road after crossing the Se Kaman bridge and continue to the second temple you meet (6.5km total) in Muang Kao (Old City). This is Wat Luang, famous because the Lan Xang King Setthathirat, for whom the district is named, is buried here. The temple was supposedly founded in 1571, the year of his death, and the stupa in which he is interred was erected soon after, though it has been rebuilt since then. There's also a crumbling old wihăhn (temple hall) with a large Buddha inside and some original woodcarving on the front gable and door. The little ubosot in front is in better shape.
Pa-AmVILLAGE
(ພະອຳ )
The area east of Attapeu was an integral part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail – two main branches, the Sihanouk Trail continuing south into Cambodia and the Ho Chi Minh Trail veering east towards Vietnam, split here – and as such was heavily bombed during the war. One of the few visible reminders of this time is a Russian-made surface-to-air missile (SAM), complete with Russian and Vietnamese stencilling, that was set up in the village of Pa-Am (aka Ban Sombun) by the North Vietnamese in 1974 to defend against aerial attack.
It has survived the scrap hunters and, by government order, is now on display, surrounded by a barbed-wire fence held up, in part, by cluster-bomb casings.
Next to the missile is a small handicraft shop with textiles and baskets woven by local Talieng women. If you drive around the village you might get lucky and see some women weaving.
Pa-Am is 16km past Saisettha (follow the signs for San Xai off Rte 18B) and the two villages make a great half-day trip from Attapeu if you have your own wheels. There is no public transport to Pa-Am.
North of Pa-Am the road quickly turns rocky and continues on to Chaleun Xai, 38km north, then northwest to Sekong. This route has recently been improved somewhat, but it's still rough and recommended for dry-season travel only.
Dong Amphan NPANATIONAL PARK
(ປ່າສະຫງວນແຫ່ງຊາດດົງອຳພານ )
The highlight of this 1975-sq-km protected area in eastern Attapeu Province is the fabled Nong Fa (Sky Blue Lake). This beautiful volcanic crater lake, also known as Nong Kai Ork, is similar to, but larger than, the more heralded Yeak Lom in Cambodia's Ratanakiri Province. Sitting at an elevation of about 1500m, the view looking back away from the lake is just as beautiful as the lake itself.
Used by the North Vietnamese as an R&R (rest and recuperation) spot for soldiers hurt on the Ho Chi Minh Trail, this beautiful lake was once only able to be reached via a difficult five-day trek. New roads mean you can make it there and back from Attapeu in a day if you have a 4x4 (available through Dokchampa Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %020-99955678; www.dokchampakham.weebly.com; Rte 18A; r 129,000-259,000K; aW)) or an enduro motorcycle. Typically, it's visited on a two-day trip, with your guide arranging an informal homestay near the lake.
The park itself was, until recently, one of the most intact ecosystems in the country. However, logging, gold mining, wildlife poaching and hydroelectric projects on the Se Kaman and Se Su (Su River) have taken a toll on the pristine environment. Still, gaur, tiger, elephant and some 280 bird species, including the beautiful crested argus, inhabit the forests of Dong Amphan NPA.
The 65km of dirt track off Rte 18B from Attapeu to the park has steep hills, lots of rock, and some streams to cross, making it tough in the dry season and impossible for much of the rainy season. Theoretically you could get here on your own, but it's a very remote route and you risk being turned back by officials before you reach your goal.
Si Phan Don ສີ່ພັນດອນ
%031
Si Phan Don (ສີ່ພັນດອນ) is where Laos becomes the land of the lotus-eaters, an archipelago of islands where the pendulum of time swings slowly and postcard-worthy views are the rule rather than the exception. Many a traveller has washed ashore here, succumbed to its charms and stayed longer than expected.
Down here the Mekong bulges to a breadth of 14km – the river’s widest reach along its 4350km journey from the Tibetan Plateau to the South China Sea – and if you count every islet and sandbar that emerges in the dry months the name, which literally means ‘Four Thousand Islands’, isn't that big of an exaggeration.
Travellers hone in on three islands: Khong, Det and Khon. Don Khong, by far the largest island in Si Phan Don, is the sleepiest of the three and sees the fewest tourists, and this is its appeal. There's much more to do on Don Khon and Don Det, which have become de rigeur stops on the Southeast Asia backpacking circuit. Activities include cycling, tubing, kayaking, waterfall-watching and dolphin-spotting, although many travellers forsake these and pass the days getting catatonic in a hammock.
The villages of Si Phan Don are often named for their position at the upriver or downriver ends of their respective islands. The upriver end is called hǔa (head); the downriver end is called hǎang (tail). Hence Ban Hua Khong is at the northern end of Don Khong, while Ban Hang Khong is at the southern end.
Si Phan Don
&nbs
p; 1Sights
1Ban Hin Siew Tai Palm Sugar TreesB3
2Don Khong History MuseumC2
3Khon Phapheng FallsD5
4Tham Phu KhiawB2
5Wat Jom ThongB2
6Wat Phu Khao KaewB2
4Sleeping
7Done Khong GuesthouseD2
8Khong View GuesthouseD1
9Mekong InnD3
10Pon Arena HotelD1
11Pon's Riverside GuesthouseD1
12Ratana Riverside GuesthouseD1
13Senesothxeune HotelD2
Don Khong (Khong Island) ດອນໂຂງ
Pop 60,000 / %031
Life moves slowly on Don Khong (ດອນໂຂງ; Khong Island), like a boat being paddled against the flow on the Mekong. It's a pleasant place to spend a day or two, wandering past fishing nets drying in the sun, taking a sunset boat ride, pedalling about on a bicycle or just chilling and reading by the river.
Don Khong measures 18km long by 8km at its widest point. Most of the roughly 60,000 islanders live on the perimeter and there are only two proper towns: lethargic Muang Khong on the eastern shore and the charmless market town of Muang Saen on the west; an 8km road links the two.
Khamtay Siphandone The, the postman who went on to serve as president of Laos from 1998 to 2006, was born in Ban Hua Khong at the north end of Don Khong in 1924.
1Sights & Activities
Don Khong is a pretty island with rice fields and low hills in the centre and simple-life villages around the perimeter, and a bike trip around the island makes for a fantastic day for cultural travellers. The road around the island is paved, though heavily potholed, the whole way. The temples in Ban Hin Siew (Hin Siew Village) and Ban Hang Khong (Hang Khong Village) on the southern end of the island have old buildings that are worth a quick peek if you happen to be passing by.