A Book of Voyages

by Patrick O'Brian

  Breakfast being over, the Emperor, who was very fond of arms, sent to desire a sight of the ambassador’s fowling-piece. He returned it, with several of his own to be shown us. They had all match-locks. The Chinese are possessed with a notion, that flints, in their climate, acquire a moisture which hinders their firing. But, as far as I could perceive, the air had little effect upon our flints.

  A signal was then given that the Emperor was coming; upon which all the great men drew up in lines, from the bottom of the stairs to the road leading to the forest, all on foot, dressed in their hunting habits, the same with those used by the officers and cavalry of the army, when in the field, and armed with bows and arrows. We had a proper place assigned us, and made our bows to his Majesty, who returned a gracious smile, with signs to follow him. He was seated, cross-legged, in an open machine, carried by four men, with long poles rested on their shoulders. Before him lay a fowling-piece, a bow, and a sheaf of arrows. This has been his hunting equipage for some years, since he left off riding; but, in his youth, he went usually every summer, several days’ journey without the long wall, and carried along with him all the Princes his sons, and many persons of distinction, to the number frequently of some thousands, in order to hunt in the woods and deserts; where he continued for the space of two or three months. Their provisions were restricted to bare necessities, and often to what they caught in the woods of Tartary. This piece of policy he practised chiefly with a view to hardening the officers of his army, and prevent their falling into idleness and effeminacy among the Chinese; and at the same time, to set a good example of the austerities he recommended, by living on the same hard fare he prescribed to others.

  As soon as the Emperor had passed, the company mounted and followed him, at some distance, till we came into the open forest, where all formed into a semi-circle, in the centre of which was the Emperor, having on his left hand about eight or ten of his sons and grandsons, and the ambassador on his right, about fifty paces distant; close by him, were the master of the chase, with some grey-hounds, and the grand falconer with his hawks. I could not but admire the beauty of these fine birds. Many of them were as white as doves; having one or two black feathers in their wings or tails. They are brought from Siberia, or places to the north of the river Amoor.

  Our wings being extended, there were many hares started, which the company endeavoured to drive towards the Emperor, who killed many of them with arrows as they passed; those he missed, he made a sign to some of the Princes to pursue, who also killed several of them with arrows; but no other person was permitted to draw a bow or stir from the line. The same rules of hunting, I formerly observed, are practised by the Mongalls.

  From the open field, we continued our route westward, to a place among thickets, and tall reeds, where we sprung a number of pheasants, partridges, and quails. His Majesty then laid aside his bow and arrows and carried a hawk on his hand; which he flew as occasion offered. The hawks generally raked in the pheasants while flying; but, if they took the reeds or bushes, they soon caught them.

  After proceeding about two or three miles farther into the forest, we came to a tall wood, where we found several sorts of deer. The young men went and beat the woods, whilst the rest of the company remained without. We saw much game pass us, but nobody drew a bow, till the Emperor had killed a stag, which he did very dexterously, with a broad-headed arrow; after which the Princes had leave to kill several bucks; among which was one of that species, that bears the musk, called kaberda in Siberia, of which I have formerly given a description. The Chinese musk is stronger, and therefore preferable to that from northern parts.

  We had now been six hours on horse-back, and, I reckon, had travelled about fifteen English miles, but no end of the forest yet appeared. We turned short from this wood southwards, till, coming to some marshes, overgrown with tall reeds, we roused a great many wild boars; but, as it was not the season for killing them, they all escaped. The hunting these fierce animals is reckoned the most dangerous of all kinds of sport, except the chase of lions and tigers. Every one endeavoured to avoid them, and several of them ran furiously through the thickest troops of horse. The Emperor was so cautious as to have a company of men, armed with lances, to guard his machine.

  We continued the sport till about four o’clock, when we came to a high artificial mount, of a square figure, raised in the middle of a plain, on the top of which were pitched about ten or twelve tents, for the imperial family. This mount had several winding paths leading to the top, planted, on each side, with rows of trees, in imitation of nature. To the south was a large bason of water, with a boat upon it; from whence, I suppose, the earth had been taken that formed this mount. At some distance from the mount, tents were erected for the people of distinction, and officers of the court. About two hundred yards from it, we were lodged in some clean huts, covered with reeds. The Emperor, from his situation, had a view of all the tents, and a great way farther into the forest. The whole scene made a very pretty appearance.

  As soon as we alighted, the master of the ceremonies was sent, by the Emperor, to ask the ambassador how he liked their manner of hunting. He made a suitable return, acknowledging, at the same time, the great honour done him on this occasion. The Emperor then sent us great plenty of dressed provisions of all kinds; and the officers, who brought them, pointed out several dishes, which his Majesty sent from his own table, consisting of mutton, venison, pheasants, and other sorts of wild fowl.

  After dinner, the Emperor sent two of his chief eunuchs to compliment the ambassador; and inform him, that he intended to entertain him with the baiting of three tigers, which had been kept for some time, cooped up in a strong grate-work, for that purpose.

  The hill, where the Emperor’s tent stood, was surrounded with several ranks of guards, armed with long spears. A guard, also, was placed before the ambassador’s, and the rest of the tents, to secure the whole encampment from the fury of these fierce animals. The first was let out by a person mounted on a fleet horse, who opened the door of the coop by means of a rope tied to it. The tiger immediately left his cage, and seemed much pleased at finding himself at liberty. The horseman rode off at full speed; while the tiger was rolling himself upon the grass. At last he rose, and growled, and walked about. The Emperor fired twice at him with bullets; but the distance being considerable, missed him, though the pieces were well pointed. Upon which his Majesty sent to the ambassador, to try his piece upon him; which being charged with a single ball, he walked towards the animal, accompanied by ten men, armed with spears, in case of accidents; till, being at a convenient distance, he took his aim, and killed him on the spot.

  The second was let out in the same manner. The horseman, retiring a little, left the creature rolling on the grass, like the first. He then returned, and shot at him with a blunted arrow; which roused the animal, to such a pitch, and made him pursue so closely, that the horseman narrowly escaped within the ranks, where the furious tiger, endeavouring to leap over the men’s heads, was killed at the foot of the mount.

  The third, as soon as he was set at liberty, ran directly towards the Emperor’s tent; and was, in like manner, killed with the spears. A man must be well mounted and armed, who hunts this kind of animals in the woods; where they must be much stronger and swifter than those we saw, which had been confined for many months, and whose limbs, for want of exercise, were become stiff and unwieldy; but, notwithstanding this advantage, the courage and nimbleness even of these animals was very surprising. I have seen four sorts of them, the tiger, panther, leopard, and lynx, which are all very fierce; but the first is the largest and strongest.

  The Emperor, in his youth, was very fond of hunting these creatures in the woods of Tartary; but, now, he confines himself within the limits of the forest, where there is game sufficient to gratify any sportsman.

  The killing of the tigers finished the diversion of the day; after which we retired to our huts, where we were entertained with a plentiful supper, sent us by the Emperor. Aft
er supper, an officer was sent by his Majesty to the ambassador, who brought the tiger’s skin he had shot; telling him, that, by the laws of hunting, he had a right to it.

  Next morning, the sport was resumed, and varied little from that of the preceding day. About three o’clock, afternoon, we came to another summer-house in the middle of the forest, where the Emperor lodged the following night; while we lay in a small neat temple in the neighbourhood; and were entertained, by his Majesty, in the same manner as before.

  The 23rd, about eight of the clock in the morning the master of the ceremonies waited on the ambassador, in order to conduct him into his Majesty’s presence, to receive his audience of leave. The Emperor received him, in a most friendly manner, in his bed-chamber. He repeated his assurances of the great friendship he entertained for his Czarish Majesty; and expressed great respect for the personal merit of the ambassador. After which the ambassador took leave; and we returned to our lodgings in the city.

  I shall only observe further, that this forest is really a most delightful place; is well stored with variety of game; and is of great extent, as will easily be conceived from the account I have given of our two days hunting. It is all inclosed with a high wall of brick. The value of the park, so near the capital, shews the magnificence of this powerful monarch.

  THE NABOB’S LADY

  from

  THE GENTLEMAN’S MAGAZINE FOR JANUARY 1745

  MR. URBAN,

  The agreeable entertainment, which your Magazine affords at our factories in the East-Indies, where it is as eagerly sought after as any part of the lading of an European ship, entitles you to some return from thence. I have therefore sent you the following little piece, in part, and doubt not of its meeting a favourable reception, from your fair readers especially, as it must shew them that their free condition is abundantly preferable to the state, magnificence, and splendour of the highest princesses of the most opulent kingdom in the world.

  Part of a letter from a lady at Fort St. George, in the East-Indies, To Mrs. B—.

  WE have had a great man called the Nabob, (who is the next person in dignity to the Great Mogul) to visit the governourfn6 (Benyon) who with the council and all the head gentlemen of Madrass went in great state to meet him; his lady with all her women attendance came the night before him; all the guns were fired round the fort upon her arrival, as well as his. He and she are Moors, whose women are never seen by any men upon earth except their own husbands. He staid here about a fortnight, but his lady remained in the black town; his attendance consisted of many thousands of people. The governor waited upon him at his house in the black town, and he returned to visit the governor; all the ladies went to see him go: it was a fine procession of palanquens, and he a fine man in person; the richness of his dress with pearls and diamonds is beyond description; he sent the governour a rich present, which was put in a large philligree silver box, placed upon the back of a beautiful Moor’s horse, which are fine large creatures; it was adorn’d with all manner of rich gold and velvet trappings, I believe there were a thousand horse and foot people to attend it. After he left Madrass, Mrs. Benyon went to visit his lady. The governor was so obliging to write me a letter over night, to invite my self and your sister to go with Mrs. Benyon the next morning to visit this great lady; we drest ourselves in the very best of things we had, and went to the governor’s, where we breakfasted, and found Mrs. Benyonfn7 as fine as a queen; the governor made tea for us that we might not put our dress out of form; Mrs. Beard, who is the governor’s sister in law, and her eldest daughter, made up the rest of the company; we had all the governor’s attendance as well as his lady, and the musick playing before us all the way, and thousands of people looking at us; we had about a mile to go. When we arrived, Mrs. Benyon was handed by a lady who was to introduce her through two halls, which brought us into a large garden with a pavilion at the end of it, where the Nabob’s lady was seated. A grand Moor lady of her attendance came to receive Mrs. Benyon in the middle of the garden, and presented her to the Nabob’s lady, who was seated in the middle of the pavilion upon a settee cover’d with embroidery on crimson velvet, and embroider’d carpets hung over it. She received our governess with the utmost gentility and good breeding, and paid her proper compliments to us.

  I must now give you a description of her person and dress; her person was thin, genteel, and middle-sized, her complexion was tawney, as the Moors are, her eyes as black as possible, large and fine, and painted at the edges of them black, which is what most of the Moors do, her lips painted red, and between every tooth painted black, to look like ebony. All her attendance, which were about thirty ladies, were the same: her face was done over like frosted work with leaf gold, the nails of her fingers and toes were painted red, and likewise the middle of her hands. You will perhaps think this a strange description, but I assure you it is literally true. And now for her dress; her hair was as black as jett, very long and thick, which was combed neatly back, and then braided; it hung a great deal below her waist. She had a fillet of diamonds round her head, edged with pearls of a large size, her ear-rings were as broad as my hand, made of diamonds and pearls, so that they almost covered each side of her face; then she had a nose jewel that went thro’ her left nostril; round her neck she had twenty rows of pearls, none smaller than a pea, but a great number of them as large as the end of my little finger. From her necklace there hung a great number of rows of large pearls, which came down below her waist, at the end of which hung a large emerald as large as my hand, and as thick, her coat which she had on was made of fine gold muslin, made close to her, and a slash’d sleeve, a gold vail which she hung loosely over her head and the rest, went carelessly over her body, all the front part of it was trimm’d with one row of large pearls. She had a girdle, or rather hoop, of diamonds, which went round the bottom of her waist, it was above an inch broad, several strings of large pearls round her waist, and ten rows round her arms a little above her elbow, and her fingers every one of them adorn’d with rich rings of all sorts and sizes, her foot and ancles adorn’d with much finer than her hands and arms. In short, Mrs. Beard and myself computed she had many more pearls and diamonds about her than would fill a peck measure. Some of the ladies that attended her were near as fine as herself.

  She had a little son brought in to see us, the richness of whose dress was I to describe, you would imagine I was telling you some fairy story; but, in short, he was loaded with gold, pearls and diamonds; the fan which was carried to keep the sun off him (made like a fire-screen, but four times as large) was crimson velvet all set in figures with diamonds and pearls. I own I thought myself in a dream all the time I was there. I must not omit giving you a description of the pavilion; it was very large, and all the bottom cover’d with fine carpets, and entirely hung round with muslin valens; on one end stood the bed, or cott, as we call it, the frame work and pillars were of solid gold, and gold gause curtains, and a rich counterpane; there were several fine dressing tables with large gold filligree candlesticks upon them. At the entrance of the pavilion there was a long embroider’d velvet carpet, with a pillar of the same work at each end, which was opposite to the settee which the lady sat upon, for us to walk over; there was something like an awning made of crimson silk, which went all on the outside of the pavilion, and was supported by pillars of gold; we had two gold censors of incense and sandal wood, which almost suffocated us with its perfumes. Our entertainment was tea, which seemed to be made with rose-water and cinnamon; every thing was served in plate. Then we had beatle, brought us in filligree boxes made of gold, upon large scollop’d silver waiters, which we lik’d better than what was in them; for the beatle is a large green leaf which the Indians chew, of an intoxicating nature, and very disagreeable to the English, but we were forced to comply with that out of compliment. After all this was over, we saw a large silver board brought, cover’d with a work’d carpet, which was presented to Mrs. Benyon; when uncovered there appeared a fine Moor’s coat, and a couple of rich gold vail
s, then a present to each of us a Moor’s coat and one gold vail. The Nabob’s lady put Mrs. Benyon’s vail upon her, so we in compliment put on ours, which she was pleased with. Then we came back to the governor’s in form, where we dined, and spent the evening. The Nabob’s lady sent an entertainment after us, which consisted of sixty dishes, all under silver covers, and put into scarlet cloth bags, made for that purpose.—The governor’s lady made a present of a hundred pagodas to all her attendance.—The Nabob’s lady and her attendance admired us all, but thought our dress very odd; two of the ladies examined our dress till they came to our hoop petticoat, which they were much astonished at; they admired my tweeser, and the trinkets in it. To end all, we were the first English women they had ever seen, and I doubt not we appeared as odd to them as they did to us. Their numerous riches are all the enjoyment they have, for the lady is not suffered to go out the year round, and if obliged to travel, she is cover’d up in her palanquen, in such a manner that no mortal can see her, and it would be death to any man to attempt to see a Moor’s lady.

  THE INDEFATIGABLE TOURIST

  from

  PHILIP SKIPPON’S

  ACCOUNT OF A JOURNEY MADE THRO’ PART OF THE LOW-COUNTRIES, GERMANY, ITALY AND FRANCE, 1663