Lonely Planet Morocco
Page 69
A Nomad
A Pure Passion
A Cafe Mouja
A À l'Ombre du Figuier
A Casa Lola
Best Places to Sleep
A Amouage
A Logis La Marine
A Ryad Tafilag
A El Malara
A Lunar Surf House
Southern Morocco & Western Sahara Highlights
1 Sidi Ifni Strolling past art-deco relics in this seaside town.
2 Anti Atlas Trekking, driving or cycling through the concertinaed granite foothills.
3 Afella-Ighir Exploring green palmeraies (palm groves) beneath ochre cliffs in this oasis.
4 Tafraoute Visiting traditional Berber houses and cycling between blue boulders.
5 Taroudannt Hitting the medina souq in this bustling trading centre.
6 Paradise Valley Meandering up the accessible part of the western High Atlas.
7 Taghazout Hanging loose in Morocco's premier surf spot.
8 Taliouine Tasting saffron and argan oil.
9 Goulimime Putting your feet up on the Sahara's fringes in the palmeraie accommodation.
a Dakhla Sailing, windsurfing or kiteboarding on the expansive lagoon.
Climate
Southern Morocco has three distinct geographical areas, each with its own micro-climate. The semitropical, verdant Souss Valley is hot and humid, with temperatures ranging between 22°C and a steamy 38°C, when water vapour rises like a mist from the huge citrus groves that fill the valley. The valley is also prone to heavy winds in spring. The climate of the barren Anti Atlas veers between freezing winters and hot, dry summers. The deep southern coast enjoys a more constant year-round sunny climate.
Language
Arabic remains the lingua franca of major cities in the south. The Chleuh tribes who dominate the Souss speak Tashelhit, a Berber dialect, most noticeable in the Anti Atlas. French is widely spoken and Spanish is still heard in some of Spain’s former territories.
The Souss Valley
Agadir اكادير
Pop 679,000
With a busy port and beach resort sprawling beneath its kasbah, Agadir was completely rebuilt following a devastating earthquake in 1960. It is now the country’s premier destination for sun, sand, pubs and pizza. Laid out as a large grid of downtown streets, surrounded by spacious residential suburbs, Agadir’s concrete-covered inland quarters are ugly and sterile. However, the city hits its stride on the beachfront promenade, where Moroccan street life comes with a refreshing sense of space. Arching south of the shiny white marina, the sandy beach offers clean water and 300 sunny days a year.
Agadir caters mainly to package-tour holidaymakers, and will appeal less to independent travellers. Families will also enjoy relaxing on the beach and wandering around the handful of sights. If you do not have children in tow, however, we recommend heading elsewhere to make the most of a visit to Morocco.
The city spreads over a large area, both along the coast and inland from the huge swath of beach. From the northern end of the beach, near the marina and port, three parallel streets – 20 Août, nearest the ocean, Mohammed V and Hassan II – run through the main tourist area.
History
Named after the agadir (fortified granary) of the Irir tribe, Agadir has a long history of boom and bust. It was founded in the 15th century by Portuguese merchants wanting to develop trade links with the Saharan caravans. From the mid-16th century, as the Saadian empire expanded, the port became prosperous from the export of local sugar, cotton and saltpetre, and products from Saharan trade, which the Moroccans then controlled. But this prosperity ended in the 1760s, when the Alawite Sultan Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah diverted the trade to Essaouira.
The French colonists went some way towards redeveloping Agadir in the 20th century, but the earthquake on 29 February 1960 completely destroyed the city. As many as 18,000 people perished, around half of the population. The authorities, unable to cope with the apocalyptic aftermath of death and disease, sprayed the area with lime and DDT, and left the dead where they had been buried, in the collapsed city. The mound this created is now known as Ancienne Talborjt.
Since its reconstruction, Agadir has developed into an important port, with a large fishing fleet helping to make Morocco the world’s largest exporter of tinned sardines. Agadir has also become Morocco’s top beach resort, and the luxury marina complex signals ambitions to move upmarket.
Agadir
1Sights
1Jardin de OlhãoC1
2Mémoire d'AgadirC1
3Musée du Patrimoine AmazighC3
4Vallée des OiseauxB2
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Palm BeachA4
6Petit Train d'AgadirA3
7Sunset BeachA3
4Sleeping
8Hotel AtlanticC2
9Hotel ClichyC1
10Hôtel KamalB2
11Hôtel Petite SuèdeA1
12Hotel SindibadD1
13Hôtel TiznineC1
14Kenzi EuropaA3
15Royal AtlasA3
16Studiotel AfoudC3
5Eating
17Côte CourtC3
18DaffyB1
Dolce & CaffeB2
19K MoonB1
20La ScalaB4
21La SicilianaB2
22Le P'tit DômeB4
Marché CentralB1
23Mezzo MezzoC3
24Snack StandsD1
25TafarnoutC3
6Drinking & Nightlife
26Cafe IIIC3
27English PubB3
28La VerandahC2
29Orange CaféB1
30Papa GayoB4
7Shopping
31Al Mouggar BookshopC2
32Ensemble ArtisanalD1
33Marché CentralB1
34Tafoukt SouqA3
1Sights
Mémoire d’AgadirMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave du Président Kennedy & Ave des FAR; adult/child Dh20/10; h9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat)
This small museum in the southwest corner of Jardin de Olhão, entered from outside the park, is dedicated to the 1960 earthquake. Displays include interesting photos of Agadir since the 1920s, while others show the effects of the quake.
Jardin de OlhãoPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du Président Kennedy; h2-6pm Tue-Sun)F
A cool, relaxing garden created in 1992 to mark the twinning of Agadir with the Portuguese town of Olhão.
Musée du Patrimoine AmazighMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 16 32; Passage Aït Souss; adult/child Dh10/5; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Mon-Sat)S
With an excellent display of Berber artefacts, especially jewellery, the museum is a great place to learn about the traditional life and culture of the region's Berber people.
Vallée des OiseauxPARK
(Valley of the Birds; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h11am-6pm)F
A leafy city-centre retreat in the dry riverbed running down from Blvd Hassan II to Blvd du 20 Août, with a shaded children’s playground, an aviary and a small zoo. It's also a handy – and more scenic – way to walk to the beach area from the centre of town.
KasbahHISTORIC SITE
( GOOGLE MAP ; off Ave al-Moun)
Offering superb views and 7km northwest of the centre, the hilltop kasbah is a rare survivor of the 1960 earthquake. Built in 1541 and restored in the 1740s, the area once housed 300 people. All that remains is the outer wall, though traces of the dwellings can still be made out. The inscription over the entry arch in Dutch and Arabic (‘Believe in God and respect the King’) is a reminder of the beginning of trade with the Low Countries.
The walk up to the kasbah is long, hot and uncomfortable: get a taxi (about Dh30) and walk back down.
Ancienne TalborjtHISTORIC SITE
( GOOGLE MAP ; off Ave al-Moun)
The grassy area below the kasbah covers the remains of old Agadir town and constitutes a mass grave for all those who died in the 1960 earthquake.
MarinaAREA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 21 57 46; www.portmarinaagadir.com; off Ave Mohammed V)
The city’s most modern attraction is a billion-dirham pleasure port between the beach and commercial port. As well as mooring for your floating gin palace, the complex of faux white kasbahs has holiday apartments, shops (mostly international brands), cafes, restaurants and boat trips for groups.
rBeaches
Agadir’s glory is its crescent beach, which usually remains unruffled when the Atlantic winds are blustering elsewhere. It’s clean and well maintained, spotlit at night and patrolled by lifeguards and police during peak periods (mid-June to mid-September). There is a strong undertow.
The beach is mostly hassle-free, but single females or families will have a more relaxed time at one of the private beaches near the marina, or in front of the big hotels around Sunset Beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Palm Beach. Facilities include showers, toilets and children's’ play areas; deckchairs and umbrellas can be hired.
The shops on the promenade just south of the marina sell bodyboards for about Dh130. Many larger beach hotels and surf clubs rent out windsurfing equipment, jet skis, bodyboards and surfboards.
At sunset and into the evening, Agadir's activity of choice is strolling along the promenade that runs runs south from the marina.
2Activities
Club Royal de Jet-SkiWATER SPORTS
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0665 95 24 35; www.agadiradventure.com)
Offers jet-skiing and flyboarding on the beach near the marina. Quad bike and ATV trips on nearby beaches can also be booked.
Musée de l'ArganHAMMAM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 87 82; www.lemuseedelargan.com; Ave Moulay Youssef; hammam & scrub Dh150; h10am-9pm)
Geared towards tourists, this unisex hammam offers massages and argan-based treatments.
TTours
Local tour operators can arrange day trips to destinations including Taroudant, Paradise Valley and Essaouira.
Petit Train d’AgadirTOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd du 20 Août; adult/child Dh18/12; hevery 40min from 9.15am)
This chain of buggies snakes around the city centre and along the beach for 35 minutes.
zFestivals & Events
Festival TimitarMUSIC
(www.festivaltimitar.ma; hJul)
Festival Timitar attracts Moroccan and international musicians and DJs to Agadir every July. Expect an eclectic world-music focus and visiting acts from other parts of Africa.
Concert for ToleranceMUSIC
(hOct)
Agadir's annual Concert for Tolerance takes place on the northern end of the beach in October. The concert's diverse program of DJs, dance music and local rap is wildly popular with Agadir's younger residents.
4Sleeping
Agadir targets midrange and top-end visitors but away from the beach are more affordable options. Booking ahead is recommended for Easter, summer and Christmas/New Year.
Luxury beachfront hotels and resorts runs south of the centre on Rue Oued Souss and Chemin des Dunes, and riads and kasbahs are found inland of Agadir or to the south en route to Inezgane.
Centre & Seafront
Riad Les Chtis D'AgadirGUESTHOUSE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 19 96; www.maisondhotesleschtisagadir.com; 27 Rue Houmane El Fetouaki; s/d incl breakfast from Dh330/429; W)
Located in a quiet residential neighbourhood, this family-owned guesthouse has colourful if compact rooms opening onto a pleasant central courtyard. Not much English is spoken by the French-expat owners, but they're friendly and eager to please. Breakfast is taken at a shared table with other guests, and this homely spot is a refreshing alternative to Agadir's lookalike hotels.
Hôtel Petite SuèdeHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 07 79; www.petitesuede.com; cnr Blvd Hassan II & Ave du Général Kettani; s/d incl breakfast Dh190/325; W)
Readers recommend this simple but perfectly located hotel, five minutes’ walk from the beach, with good service and a roof terrace for breakfast and ocean views. It’s one of Agadir’s more Moroccan-styled hotels, with an attractive, rug-scattered interior.
Kenzi EuropaHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 12 12; www.kenzi-hotels.com; Blvd du 20 Août; r from Dh600; aWs)
This Kenzi hotel is about the most stylish and restrained thing in tacky Agadir. Curvy lampshades and flat surfaces abound in the calm, minimal rooms; facilities include a spa, a restaurant and a bar; and a band tinkles away in the lobby. Only the plastic octopus and dolphins in the children's pool detract from the overall smoothness. Specials are offered online.
Hotel AtlanticHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 36 61; www.atlantichotelagadir.com; off Blvd Hassan II; s/d incl breakfast Dh550/700; aWs)
The three-star Atlantic is one of the best deals in Agadir, offering comfortable rooms and, in the cool and breezy reception, professional service. It has a spa, a lovely little pool, and tours on offer.
Studiotel AfoudAPARTMENT€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 39 99; www.studiotel-afoud.com; Rue de la Foire; apt from Dh800; aWs)
If you would like to self-cater, these studios are simple but pleasant, each featuring a kitchen with hob and fridge, and a balcony overlooking the peeling neighbouring buildings. On the ground floor there's a restaurant, a grocery booth and a bookcase of paperback novels.
Hôtel KamalHOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 28 17; www.hotel-kamal.com; Blvd Hassan II; s/d Dh404/465; Ws)
A popular and well-run downtown hotel in a white block overlooking Pl de L’Esperance, the Kamal manages to appeal to a range of clients, from package-tourists to travelling Moroccans. Rooms are tired, but the staff are helpful, the pool is large enough to swim laps in, and there is a bar.
Royal AtlasHOTEL€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 29 40 40; www.hotelsatlas.com; Blvd du 20 Août; s/d incl breakfast Dh1428/1657; aiWs)
This beachfront colossus ticks all the five-star boxes with a Moroccan flourish. Carpets and antiques dot the tiled floors leading to the palm-fringed bar and pool area, and the 350 rooms and suites. Facilities include a nightclub, a gym, Daniel Jouvance spa, a private beach, Italian and Moroccan restaurants, and all the extras you would expect.
Nouveau Talborjt
The best area for budget options is away from the ocean in Nouveau Talborjt, where there are three budget hotels on Pl Lahcen Tamri. The all-night bus activity ensures that most hotel receptions here are open 24 hours; the area is a little seedy.
Hotel ClichyHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 42 00; contact@hotelclichy.ma; 48 Ave du President Kennedy; s/d Dh230/270)
The rooms certainly aren't as flash as the over-the-top tiled reception, but a recent makeover has definitely resurrected this midrange hotel on the edge of the Nouveau Talborjt neighbourhood. Bathrooms are especially spick and span, and the modern and shiny downstairs terrace cafe is popular with Agadir locals. Ask for a rear room to minimise occasional traffic noise.
Hotel SindibadHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 34 77; sinhot@menara.ma; Pl Lahcen Tamri; s/d Dh300/350; aWs)
This blue-and-white building has compact en-suite rooms, and the star attraction is the hotel's pint-sized rooftop pool. New downstairs rooms facing an expansive square are good value.
Hôtel TiznineHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 39 25; 3 Rue Drarga; s/d without bathroom Dh100/150, with shower Dh120/150; W)
A dozen good-sized rooms surround a green-and-white tiled flowering courtyard. Some rooms have bathrooms but most share facilities.
Out Of Town
oAtlas KasbahBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 48 85 04; www.atlaskasbah.com; Rte d'Azrarag, Tighanimine El Baz; r/ste incl breakfast from Dh880/1650; Ws)
Located on a spectacular hilltop 15km inland from Agadir, the 11 rooms and suites in this Berber-style fortress are the ideal overnight haven after partaking in Atlas
Kasbah's busy menu of ecofriendly and cultural activities. Guests can indulge in hammam and massage treatments, learn about Moroccan cuisine and crafts, or go hiking or donkey riding to nearby Berber villages.
The team behind Atlas Kasbah is strongly focused on sustainable practices and has won awards for its responsible approach to tourism.
oParadis NomadeBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%0671 12 15 35; www.paradis-nomade.com; Douar Azarag; s/d incl breakfast from Dh405/590, tents per person Dh155; iWs)
Located in pleasant rural surroundings around 15km from Agadir, Paradis Nomade combines very impressive suites, smaller but still comfortable rooms, and the option of staying in Berber-style tents. A Berber ambience is also carried through to the best of the rooms, and the garden surroundings are enlivened with a compact swimming pool and a spacious restaurant and bar area.
5Eating
There’s a great choice of cafes and patisseries, where you can start the day with coffee and pastries or recover from the rigours of the beach. Some restaurants in Agadir are licensed, and the city's beachfront promenade is packed with touristy restaurants serving everything from burgers to Indian and Spanish cuisine.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
TOP EATING SPOTS IN AGADIR