Lonely Planet Morocco
Page 70
Passage Aït Souss Opposite the museum on this pedestrianised walkway, cafes serve everything from Moroccan dishes to pizza.
Souq al-Had At lunchtime, tajines bubble away outside the many cheap cafes.
Nouveau Talborjt In the morning, snack stands ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 29 Février; snacks from Dh20) on Ave du 29 Février are popular for Moroccan pancakes and mint tea; for lunch or dinner, budget cafes and restaurants have seats on Pl Lahcen Tamri.
Port At the entrance to the port, off Ave Mohammed V, you can pick up an ultra-fresh, no-nonsense fish meal from around Dh70. Check costs before ordering; the various catches differ greatly in price (seafood such as crab is about Dh300 per 1kg). The stalls ( GOOGLE MAP ; meals around Dh50; h11.30am-10pm) close in the early evening during the winter.
Centre & Nouveau Talborjt
K MoonMOROCCAN€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 47 61; 58 Rue des Oranges; mains Dh25-42; hnoon-11pm)
Colourful parasols and a sunny outdoor terrace combine at this local spot serving well-priced grills – the merguez plate for lunch will set you up for an afternoon's exploring of Agadir – and hearty tagines packed with vegetables. If you're hungry and travelling in a small group, push the boat out with the 1kg mixed grill.
PistachiosCAFE, ICE CREAM€
( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue La Plage; ice cream from Dh8; h10am-10pm)
Colourful outdoor tables and energetic English-speaking staff are standouts at this modern cafe with some of the best ice cream in town. Cool down with the lemon, melon or orange flavours, or linger over coffee and cheesecake as you take in the views of Agadir's beachfront promenade.
TafarnoutPASTRIES€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Hassan II; snacks Dh30; h7am-11pm)
Agadir's smartest patisserie, with indoor and outdoor seating and a wide range of gâteaux, tarts, croissants, crêpes and biscuits. Good luck in choosing from the mouthwatering selection.
DaffyMOROCCAN€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue des Oranges; mains Dh70; h11am-11pm)
This popular unlicensed tourist restaurant offers tastes of Moroccan cuisine, including couscous (on Friday) and tajines, as well as seafood and salads.
Dolce & CaffeCAFE, ICE CREAM€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Hassan II; snacks Dh30; h8am-10pm; W)
One of Agadir's coolest cafes, serving delectable gâteaux, tarts, ice cream, crêpes, light meals and breakfasts with an R&B soundtrack.
La SicilianaPIZZA€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Hassan II; mains Dh70-110, pizza Dh40-80; hnoon-11.45pm)
In a line of Italian eateries, this unlicensed restaurant is the most atmospheric of the lot. Between noon and 5pm weekdays, its pizza and pasta deals are popular.
Côte CourtSEAFOOD€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 65 33; off Blvd Hassan II; mains Dh70-160; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm)
This restaurant at the Royal Tennis Club occupies a lovely outdoor area, which is equal parts chichi garden and nomad camp, with up-lit trees, basket lamps and the pizza oven flickering away. The service is attentive and the menu incorporates a range of Asian, Mediterranean and Spanish influences. Good-value two- or three-course lunch specials start at Dh70.
Mezzo MezzoITALIAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 88 19; www.facebook.com/MezzoMezzoAgadir; Blvd Hassan II; mains Dh90-130; h7pm-1am; W)
A shining beacon among Agadir’s many stodgy pizzerias, Mezzo Mezzo offers a good range of pizzas, daily specials and wine by the glass. The kitchen also produces pasta and fish dishes, and there’s a smooth European sophistication to the decor and service. Secure an outdoor table, order a cold Casablanca lager, and watch the world go by.
Le P'tit DômeMOROCCAN, INTERNATIONAL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 08 05; www.facebook.com/Ptitdome; Blvd du 20 Août; mains Dh80-125; h10am-late)
In a line of tourist restaurants, Le P'tit Dôme offers good service, black-and-white decor and a touch more class than its neighbours. The usual pizza, meat, seafood and Moroccan dishes are served, and the three-course set menu (Dh120) is good value. Outdoor terrace seating provides a pleasant dining environment.
La ScalaSEAFOOD€€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 67 73; Rue Oued Souss; meals Dh150-250)
One of Agadir’s best fish restaurants, with two pages of the menu devoted to seafood. Pasta and meat dishes are also available, and the food is generally elegant, fresh and beautifully presented.
Marina
The upmarket marina at the northern end of the seafront promenade has a concentration of midrange and top-end restaurants and cafes, where you can dine in style on international food.
Les BlancsSEAFOOD€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 83 68; www.facebook.com/lesblanc; mains Dh130-190; h11am-midnight)
Occupying a series of elegant white blocks by the beach at the entrance to the marina, Les Blancs serves seafood and meat dishes including paella, the house speciality (two people minimum). In season, book ahead to score an outside table. For a sunset snack, pizza (Dh90) is served in the terrace bar.
oPure PassionINTERNATIONAL€€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 01 20; www.purepassion.ma; Agadir Marina; mains Dh150-240; hnoon-11pm)
Vintage clocks and elegant lighting reinforce a stylish ambience at this restaurant adjudged one of Agadir's best. Try and score a front table for Marina views, and sample scallops topped with argan oil, fresh Dakhla oysters and good vegetarian options. The wine, beer and cocktail list runs across multiple pages, and Pure Passion's three-course lunch menu (Dh160) is excellent value.
33 Yacht AdressSEAFOOD, MOROCCAN€€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0529 90 09 00; mains Dh150-170; hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm)
This upmarket restaurant is an excellent spot for sundowners, with superb views down the beach. The menu, prepared by three French chefs, is a good mix of seafood (sole, lobster, bouillabaisse) and meat dishes, such as chicken pastilla (savoury pie) and shoulder of lamb.
La MadragueMEDITERRANEAN, SEAFOOD€€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 24 24; mains Dh130-240; h11am-11pm)
This stylish restaurant occupies a quiet corner of the marina, with a view of the kasbah above the boats. It specialises in dishes such as pasta, risotto, crab and prawns, and offers a three-course weekday lunch special (Dh180).
SELF-CATERING
For beach lunches and road journeys stock up here:
CarrefourSUPERMARKET€
( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Yacoub El Mansour; h9am-10pm)
The biggest and best supermarket in central Agadir. Handy for picnic fixings if you're heading to the surf beaches north of Agadir or inland to Paradise Valley.
Marché CentralMARKET€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Blvd Hassan II; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
Has a fresh food market on the ground floor.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Blvd du 20 Août and Rue Oued Souss are good for bars and nightclubs. At the marina and along the promenade there are also plenty of cafes and bars. Beers are typically Dh5 to Dh10 more expensive at night, but many bars extend their daytime prices during early-evening happy hours. Many also offer the dubious pleasure of karaoke or crooning entertainers.
HavanaBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 65 41; www.facebook.com/havanarestaurant; Agadir Marina; hnoon-11pm)
Once you've spotted Havana's bright yellow American vintage car parked outside, you'll have found this fun bar that has live music most nights. The food – Moroccan flavours and international snack food – is only OK, but the real attraction is Havana's menu of cocktails and cold beer.
Orange CaféCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue des Oranges; h10am-8pm; W)
This cool little courtyard cafe, with chilled Arabic electronica on the stereo and a fountain gurgling away, serves coffee and light meals (Dh25 to Dh35).
English PubPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd du 20 Août; mains from Dh75; hnoon-late)
Come to this Union Jack–festooned
bar for Stella Artois, all-day breakfasts and karaoke. A bevy of TV screens and resourceful bar staff usually means you can watch pretty well any live football game from across Europe.
Le SoCLUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; Sofitel Royal Bay, Chemin des Dunes; h6pm-late)
The hippest club in Agadir and one of the most expensive, laid out on several levels with features including champagne and vodka bars, a live-music stage and a restaurant. Local players save this one for the climax of the evening’s entertainment.
Cafe IIISHEESHA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Rue de la Foire; hnoon-1am)
Hip young locals of both sexes come here to smoke sheesha beneath flat-screen TVs.
La VerandahCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Immeuble Oumlil, Blvd Hassan II; h9am-8pm)
This meeting point offers strong coffee and light meals on its glassed-in verandah. Snacks cost around Dh20 to Dh45.
Jour et NuitCAFE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue de la Plage; h24hr)
A popular spot for a seafront sundowner. The newer of the two neighbouring branches has a panoramic terrace with brilliant views of the beach.
Papa GayoCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chemin des Dunes; h6pm-late)
One of Agadir’s most popular nightclubs, attracting international DJs. Dance the night away and chill on the beach.
7Shopping
Souvenirs are often trucked into Agadir from other parts of Morocco and tend to be of low quality, although Marrakshi vendors have started to outsource production here. The options in the centre are unatmospheric but low-pressure environments offering easy shopping.
Ensemble ArtisanalARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 38 72; Ave du 29 Février; h10am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat)
Some of the best craftwork found in Agadir.
Tafoukt SouqGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd du 20 Août; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm)
A touristy bazaar with everything from Berber jewellery to football tops. There's also a handy mini-supermarket selling snacks, souvenirs, and beer and liquor.
Marché CentralARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off Blvd Hassan II; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
Pick up presents ranging from chessboards to leatherwork in and around this concrete building.
Al Mouggar BookshopBOOKS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Ave du Prince Moulay Abdallah & Ave du 29 Février; h9am-3pm)
Has a wide selection of French books, and some English paperback novels.
WORTH A TRIP
SOUQ AL-HAD
Leave the seafront to shop with the locals at the Souq al-Had ( GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Abderrahim Bouabid; h7am-11pm Tue-Sat), which slaps a big, messy dollop of Moroccan atmosphere onto concrete Agadir. Stalls sell everything from jellabas (a popular flowing garment) to fish, and include some good handicrafts, leatherwork and lanterns. Among the lines of fresh fruit and veg from the Souss Valley, look out for Berber apothecaries selling herbal incense, lipstick and potions that have all sorts of effects on the bowels.
8Information
There are banks all over the centre, most with ATMs and exchange facilities, and exchange booths and ATMs at the airport. Large hotels can also usually exchange cash, albeit at an inferior rate.
There are internet cafes around Nouveau Talborjt.
Adrar Net ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du Prince Moulay Abdallah; per hr Dh5; h9am-10pm)
Teleboutique le Musée ( GOOGLE MAP ; Passage Aït Souss; per hr Dh5; h10.30am-11pm)
Most of the larger hotels are able to recommend reliable, English-speaking doctors. Pharmacy windows display a list of that week's pharmacies de garde, which open 24 hours on a rotating basis.
Clinique al-Massira ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 38 08 42; Ave du 29 Février; h24hr) Medical clinic.
Pharmacie du Talborjt ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Pl Lahcen Tamri; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat)
Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Sidi Mohammed; h8.30am-4.15pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat)
Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; %19; Rue du 18 Novembre)
There’s also a Nouveau Talborjt office on Pl Lahcen Tamri ( GOOGLE MAP ), and a Tourist Police ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue de la Plage) post on the promenade.
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 29 Février; h8.30am-4.15pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat)
Tourist Information
Information BoothTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 83 91 02; www.visitagadir.com; Al-Massira Airport; h24hr)
Open 24 hours at the airport and has useful maps and brochures.
ONMTTOURIST INFORMATION
(Délégation Régionale du Tourisme; GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 63 77; www.visitagadir.com; Immeuble Ignouan, Ave Mohammed V; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)
In the blue building next to DHL; not particularly helpful.
Travel Agencies
There are many travel agencies around the junction of Blvd Hassan II and Ave des FAR, variously representing major airlines and offering tours and day trips.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Al-Massira Airport (%0528 83 91 02; www.onda.ma; N10), mainly served by Royal Air Maroc and European charter flights and budget airlines, is 28km southeast of Agadir en route to Taroudannt. Facilities include a post office, bag-wrap service, cafes, souvenir shops and wi-fi hotspots.
Bus
Although a good number of buses serve Agadir, it is quite possible you’ll end up in Inezgane, 13km south, the regional transport hub. Check before you buy your ticket. Plenty of grands taxis (Dh7) and local buses (Dh10) shuttle between there and Agadir.
All the major bus companies, and plenty of smaller companies, serve the massive circular gare routière (Bus Station; GOOGLE MAP ; Blvd Abderrahim Bouabid), past Souq al-Had. If you want to travel on a specific bus, it is worth booking ahead.
CTM ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 53 41; www.ctm.ma), which has a Nouveau Talborjt ticket office off Pl Lahcen Tamri, has several daily departures to destinations including Casablanca (Dh270, eight hours), Dakhla (Dh395, 20 hours), Essaouira (Dh75, 3½ hours), Laâyoune (Dh240, 11½ hours), Marrakesh (Dh110, 3½ hours), Rabat (Dh230, nine hours), Tangier (Dh340, 13½ hours), Taroudannt (Dh35, two hours) and Tiznit (Dh40, 1¾ hours).
Supratours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 84 12 07; www.supratours.ma), which has a city-centre ticket office on Rue des Oranges, offers similar services.
Car & Motorcycle
The distances involved in touring southern Morocco make it worthwhile considering car rental. It is cheapest to book a vehicle online in advance; www.economycarrentals.com offers good deals in Agadir and at Al-Massira Airport.
Local agencies charge from about Dh300 for a small car for one day, though there’s usually room for haggling. Note that you'll need to stump up an additional cost to reduce your insurance excess.
Local agencies are clustered in the arcade ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du Prince Moulay Abdallah) across Ave du Prince Moulay Abdallah from the bottom of Ave du 29 Février; around the junction ( GOOGLE MAP ) of Ave des FAR and Blvd Hassan II, and the corner ( GOOGLE MAP ) of Ave Mohammed V and Ave du Général Kettani. Avis, Budget, Europcar and Hertz have offices both in the latter location and at the airport, where Thrifty and Sixt also have desks. Most accommodation options can also arrange car hire, Scooters and motorbikes are also available, but check the state of the machines carefully.
There is a centrally located petrol station ( GOOGLE MAP ) at the southern end of Rue Palais Municipal.
Taxi
The main grand-taxi rank is located at the south end of Rue de Fès. Destinations include Essaouira (Dh100), Inezgane (Dh10) and Taroudannt (Dh40).
8Getting Around
To/From The Airport & Bus Station
AAl-Massira Airport Taxis from the airport to Agadir or Inezgane cost Dh200. Bus 37 runs from outside the airport (about 500m straight out on the road) to Inezgane (Dh10, 6.45am to 10.15pm), from where you can continue to Agadir and destinations throughout southern Morocco.
AAgadir Bus Statio
n From Agadir's gare routière, a taxi to central hotels and resorts is around Dh15. Some intercity buses for Agadir may terminate in the suburb of Inezgane, from where shared taxis and buses continue to central Agadir.
AIRPORT TAXIS
You can catch a taxi straight from Al-Massira Airport to numerous destinations. Tariffs for private hire are displayed at the airport information booth, and include the following destinations: Agadir or Inezgane (Dh200), Essaouira or Goulimime (Dh1000), Mirleft (Dh700), Tafraoute (Dh900), Taghazout (Dh300), Taroudannt or Tiznit (Dh450).
Bus
Journeys within Agadir cost Dh5 and you can buy tickets on the bus. Buses run along Ave Mohammed V between the port and Inezgane. Catch bus 32 for Tamraght and Taghazout.
Taxi
Orange petits taxis run around Agadir. Prices are worked out by meter; ask for it to be switched on. It should cost about Dh15 to cross town.
Souss-Massa National Park
One of Morocco's most significant national parks and bird reserves, Souss-Massa (www.visitnationalparksoussmassa.jimdo.com) stretches down the coast from Inezgane, a block of over 330 sq km of protected land between the main north–south highway and the beach. It is a spectacular and wild place of cliffs, sand dunes, farmland, coastal steppes and forests.