Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  Sulina

  Pop 3500

  The sleepy fishing port of Sulina is Romania's easternmost point (64km east of Tulcea) and the highlight of any journey along the Danube's central arm. There's a beautiful, tranquil (during the day) beach here as well as a charming canalside promenade. It's also an excellent base for forays deeper into the delta or on to the Black Sea. While Sulina has a year-round population, most hotels, restaurants and activities run only from May to September.

  2Activities

  Sulina is a quiet place. The main activities include strolling the main promenade (Str I), soaking up the sun at the beach, 4km east of the centre, or hiring a tour boat to take you around the delta.

  A bike can be handy for moving from the centre to the beach and back. There's a seasonal Rent a Bike ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0748-369 173; Str I, cnr Str Mihail Kogălniceanu; per 2hr/day 10/20 lei; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug) outfit on the riverfront promenade.

  Danube Delta ExcursionsBOATING

  (Excursii în Delta Dunării; GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-821 365; Str I, cnr Str Mihail Kogălniceanu; per person 40-60 lei)

  One of a number of private operators along the promenade that offer boat trips into the delta and to the Gulf of Musura on the Black Sea that last from two to four hours. Make reservations and buy tickets at a display table located in front of the commercial complex near the intersection with Str Mihail Kogălniceanu.

  Sulina BeachBEACH

  (Plaja Sulina; GOOGLE MAP ; hMay-Sep)

  Sulina's clean, sandy beach is ideal for kids because of the shallow water that goes out only waist-high to a distance of 100m. There are no showers, but two small restaurants have toilets. Wild camping is permitted. It's located 4km east of the passenger ferry port. Walk or take a taxi (8 lei) or minibus (2 lei).

  SULINA'S HISTORY: MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE

  Sulina has a richer history than most small towns in these parts. It was selected in the mid-19th century to serve as the headquarters of the European Commission of the Danube – an early multinational effort to transform the canals of the delta into a navigable waterway.

  As the seat of an international organisation, Sulina rapidly became home to a diverse group of residents, including Romanians, Russians, Greeks, Turks and Jews, as well as a smattering of citizens from countries across Europe, including Britain, France and Germany. A taste of this diversity in action, and the comic and dramatic overtones of having so many nationalities crammed into such a small space, was captured in the popular 1933 novel Europolis, by the Romanian author Eugeniu Botez (writing under the pen name Jean Bart). From the book at least, little Sulina was apparently quite a bawdy place at one point.

  Sadly, little of this vitality survived WWII, but you can still visit Sulina's Lighthouse (Farul Sulina; GOOGLE MAP ; www.icemtl.ro/sulina-en; Str II-a 43; adult/student 5/2.50 lei; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), the actual headquarters of the commission. Indeed, the founding plaque of the commission can still be seen on the side of the building. The best place to get a feel for the seaport in its heyday is, ironically, Sulina Cemetery (Cimitir; GOOGLE MAP ; DC5; hsunrise-sunset), where the various faiths and mix of nationalities still rub shoulders, so to speak, in a tiny, harmonious setting. Don't miss the row of fallen British sailors from the 19th century, arrayed just in front of the cemetery's small chapel.

  4Sleeping

  There are several cazares and pensiunes here: you can accept an offer from those who greet the passenger ferries, or ask around. Expect to pay around 100 lei per room, excluding board. Wild camping is possible on the beach.

  Pensiunea AnaPENSION$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0724-421 976; pensiuneana@yahoo.com; Str IV 144; r 120 lei; naW)

  This charming family-run affair has four rooms and a beautifully shaded garden. The view from the street is not promising but once inside the blue gate things start to look up. To find it, walk 200m west from the ferry port along the main promenade, bear left on Str Mihail Kogălniceanu, and walk four blocks inland.

  Vila CaviarPENSION$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-559 213; www.pensiuneacaviarsulina.ro; Str IV 142; r 180 lei; naW)

  Clean and comfortable family-owned pensiune. The rooms are spacious, with hardwood floors, armoires and writing desks. There's a small garden to relax in with coffee. Meals available on request. The location is four blocks inland from the riverfront, just near Str Mihail Kogălniceanu.

  Hotel Casa CoralHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0742-974 016; www.casacoralsulina.ro; Str I 195; r 150 lei; aW)

  This modern three-star property lacks character but is arguably the nicest hotel in Sulina centre. You'll have to book in advance in summer as it tends to fill up fast. You'll find it on the main promenade 100m west of the passenger ferry port.

  5Eating & Drinking

  PerlaROMANIAN$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0754-200 300; www.perla-sulina.ro; Str I 155; mains 20-35 lei; h10am-11pm May-Sep; W)

  Reliably good restaurant, slightly west of the centre, meaning fewer crowds. Enjoy Romanian sour soups, and traditional specialities, as well as very good fish soup and grilled and fried variations of delta fish. There are a few tables outside with a nice view out onto the river canal.

  Restaurant Marea NeagrăROMANIAN$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-543 130; Str I 178; mains 20-30 lei; W)

  This large and popular open-air terrace offers more than a dozen fish specialities, including sturgeon. It's located on the riverfront promenade, just next to Sulina's small city hall.

  Irish Stoker PubPUB

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-696 842; Str I 181; h3pm-midnight; W)

  Popular watering hole on the river promenade with decent coffee and relatively rare nonfiltered Ciuc beer on tap for 6 lei per glass. It's about 300m west of the passenger ferry port, just next to the Sulina town hall (Primăria).

  8Information

  FarmaciePHARMACY

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Str I, cnr Str Mihail Kogălniceanu; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun)

  Convenient pharmacy in the commercial complex, next to the supermarket and post office.

  Sulina Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

  (Centrul de Informare Turistica Sulina; GOOGLE MAP ; Str I; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 11am Sat & Sun May-Oct)

  Sulina's sparsely furnished information centre has basic information on the delta, including a helpful exhibition of delta flora and fauna on the upper floor. The office is located on the seafront promenade on the extreme western edge of the pedestrianised portion, 700m west of the Navrom passenger ferry port.

  8Getting There & Away

  There's regular Navrom passenger ferry and hydrofoil service between Tulcea and Sulina. The ferry port ( GOOGLE MAP ; %information 0240-519 008; www.navromdelta.ro; Str I) is on the eastern end of the riverfront promenade, about 200m east of the centre.

  In addition to the big Navrom ferries, several smaller, private companies operate a water-taxi service from Sulina to Tulcea, with most also stopping at Crişana (about midway). Be sure to reserve in advance and expect to pay around 60 lei per person for the 90-minute journey. Two reliable water-taxi companies operating between May and September are Eco Delta ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0742-529 011; www.delta-trip.ro; Str 1; per person 60 lei; hMay-Sep), with daily boats departing at 10am and 3pm, and Travel Delta Star ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-917 592; www.excursii-delta-dunarii.ro; Str 1; hMay-Sep), with boats leaving at 7am, 8am, noon and 4pm daily.

  At the time of research, the only access to Sfântu Gheorghe (30km south) was by private boat. Negotiate rates on the waterfront. Expect to pay upwards of 400 lei for the one- to three-hour journey (depending on the type and speed of the boat).

  Sfântu Gheorghe

  Pop 1000

  First recorded in the mid-14th century by Visconti, a traveller from Genoa, the remote seaside village of Sfântu Gheorghe, on the eastern end of the Sfântu Gheorghe channel (109km from Tulcea), retains an ever-so-slight alternative vibe, fed by the town's lovely, lonely beach and its sleepy, noncommercial core. It's also one of the best plac
es in the delta to sample traditional cooking (including some fabulous fish soup). Each August the village hosts what just might be the world’s most remote film festival, the Anonimul fest.

  2Activities

  There's not much to do here and that's precisely the point. Take your pick between lazing on the beautiful sandy beach and exploring the waterways on a boat trip. Several private boat owners offer excursions into the delta or to the Black Sea. Negotiate your itinerary and prices in advance. The Delta Marina hotel organises boat trips too. See the reception desk for details.

  Delta Boat TripsBOATING

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-586 360; Portul; boat trip per person 50-60 lei)

  This private boat operator just west of the ferry terminal is one of several along the waterfront offering two- to six-hour trips around the delta. Rates vary but start at around 50 lei per person for a standard two-hour tour. Popular tours include visiting pelican colonies and the mouth of the Danube, where it enters the Black Sea.

  Sfântu Gheorghe BeachBEACH

  (Plaja Sfântu Gheorghe; GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug)

  Sfântu Gheorghe's wild beach is one of Romania's most beautiful. Fine, white sand, clean water and rarely more than a handful of sunbathers make this a beach worth seeking out. There are few facilities, so bring food and whatever else you might need. It's 4km east of the centre. Walk about 30 minutes or take the Transport Plaja (Trocarici; GOOGLE MAP ; %0740-572 269; Str Principala (Str 1); per person 3 lei).

  4Sleeping

  There are several cazares and pensiunes here: you can accept an offer from those who greet the incoming passenger ferries, or ask around. Wild camping is possible on the beach, but it gets windy and it’s a long 4km hike in the dark.

  oVila Petru & Marcela StefanovPENSION$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0763-088 859, 0240-546 811; near Str Principala (Str I); s/d incl half board 120/150 lei)

  This family-run pensiune offers clean and comfortable accommodation just a few metres' walk from the town centre. Rates include half-board, which means delicious homemade fish soup followed by more grilled fish. The street and property are unmarked, but the pensiune is three houses north (on the left-hand side) of the complex comercial and supermarket, just beyond Str Principala (Str I).

  Delta MarinaHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-546 946; www.deltamarina.ro; Str Principala (Str I); r 150 lei; aW)

  This small, modern hotel is situated on the water about 200m west of the ferry port. The 15 rooms here are modestly sized but outfitted with comfortable beds, up-to-date baths and minibars. The popular terrace restaurant is one of the few places in town to grab a sit-down meal (mains 20 to 25 lei).

  Green VillageRESORT$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-487 090, 0731-818 511; www.greenvillage.ro; Str Principala (Str 1); s/d 400/500 lei; naWs)

  This four-star resort has the best facilities in Sfântu Gheorghe. Accommodation is in bungalows with thatched roofs designed to harmonise with the delta setting. The restaurant is open to the public. There's a pool, spa and bike rental (per hour 10 lei). It's located 1.5km east of the centre (a 15-minute walk east of the ferry port).

  5Eating & Drinking

  There are very few restaurants around, so you're best off booking full- or half-board deals with your hotel or pension. The Delta Marina hotel has a decent terrace restaurant that also opens at 7am for breakfast if necessary.

  Bar TerasaCAFE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Principala (Str I); h8am-2am May-Sep; W)

  When it comes to evening drinking, this centrally located open-air terrace is the only game in town. Serves beer and coffee throughout the day to a pulsating pop soundtrack that changes over to live music some evenings around 9pm.

  8Information

  Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve AuthorityTOURIST INFORMATION

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0240-518 926; www.ddbra.ro; Str Ia 39; permits day/week 5/15 lei; h7am-noon & 4-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun May-Oct)

  Decent source for what to see and do on the delta. Sells visitors permits. Located on the harbour, about 50m from the entrance to the passenger ferry port.

  8Getting There & Away

  There's a regular Navrom ferry and hydrofoil service between Tulcea and Sfântu Gheorghe. The ferry port ( GOOGLE MAP ; %information 0240-519 008; www.navromdelta.ro) is 100m southeast of the village centre. The only access to Sulina (30km to the north) is by water taxi. Negotiate rates on the waterfront. Expect to pay upwards of 400 lei for the one- to three-hour journey (depending on the type and speed of the boat).

  Black Sea Coast & Littoral

  Romania's Black Sea coast is not well known outside the country. And, indeed, the beach resorts in neighbouring Bulgaria generally offer superior facilities and better prices. That said, Romania's coast has a charm of its own, especially if you like your beaches loud and summer nights long. The two main resorts, Mamaia and Vama Veche, tend to draw different crowds. Mamaia is the larger and brasher of the two, and beaches here co-exist alongside big package-tour hotels and swish nightclubs (especially in the northern end of the resort). 'Vama' attracts a counter-culture crowd and feels much more down to earth, though the facilities here are more primitive.

  Constanţa

  Pop 283,000

  Constanţa is Romania’s largest and most important port city on the Black Sea; in summer it's also the gateway to the country's seaside resorts. Accommodation here is cheaper than in Mamaia and maxi taxis cover the journey in about 15 minutes, so it may be worthwhile to consider basing yourself here even if you’re only coming for Mamaia’s beaches and clubs. The city is working hard to scrub up the long-neglected area around the port, and there are some very good museums and a pretty portside walk. The restaurants are the best in this part of the country.

  Central Constanţa

  1Sights

  1AquariumD4

  2CasinoD4

  3Folk Art MuseumB3

  4Great Mahmudiye MosqueC4

  5National History & Archaeological MuseumC3

  6Naval History MuseumA3

  7Roman MosaicC4

  8Statue of OvidC3

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  9Condor Cruise BoatD3

  10Modern BeachB1

  4Sleeping

  11Hotel ChericaB2

  12Hotel FerdinandB2

  13Villa AnticusC3

  5Eating

  14Irish PubB2

  15Marco PoloA1

  16On PlongeD3

  17PizzicoC3

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  18BarissimoA2

  19CrazyA1

  3Entertainment

  20Oleg Danovski National TheatreB2

  21Ticket OfficeA2

  1Sights

  City Centre & Ovid Square

  The city centre and the area around Ovid Square (Piaţa Ovidiu) have the city's most important museums. Ovid Sq is easy to find. Just look for the landmark Statue of Ovid ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piața Ovidiu; h24hr) standing at the centre. The famed Roman poet (43 BC–AD 17) was banished here by Emperor Augustus in AD 8 for reasons that remain unclear to this day. By all accounts, he hated being so far away from his beloved Rome. The statue dates from 1887 and is the work of Ettore Ferrari.

  National History & Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul de Istorie Nationala si Arheologie Constanta; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-618 763; www.minac.ro; Piaţa Ovidiu 12; adult/child 13/5 lei; h9am-8pm Jun-Sep, to 5pm Tue-Sun Oct-May)

  This is the city's most important museum, though on balance it's a minor disappointment. The stunning ground-floor exhibits of vases, jewellery and statuary from the Greek and Roman periods, lasting until about AD 500, justify the admission price, but the upper floors on more recent times and Romanian national history are poorly lit and lack signage in English. Skip the top floor altogether.

  Roman MosaicRUINS

  (Edificiul Roman cu Mozaic; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Ovidiu 12; adult/child 10/5 lei; h9am-8pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-May)

  Located just beh
ind and south of the National History & Archaeological Museum, a modern building protects what's left of a Roman floor mosaic dating from the 4th century that was discovered in the 1960s. The site is near where the forum of ancient Tomis is thought to have existed. On the grounds surrounding the mosaic are old Roman tombstones, complete with highly moving and surprisingly modern epitaphs that have been translated into English.

  Great Mahmudiye MosqueMOSQUE

  (Carol I Mosque; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Arhiepiscopiei 5; adult/child 5/3 lei; h9am-5pm)

  This impressive mosque is the seat of the mufti and was built in 1910 by King Carol I. It's the spiritual home of the 50,000 Muslims who inhabit the coastal region. The highlight is the enormous Persian rug, said to be the largest carpet in the country. You can climb the 140 steps of the minaret.

  Folk Art MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul de Artă Populară; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-616 133; B-dul Tomis 32; adult/child 5/2.50 lei; h9am-7.30pm)

  This large and impressive collection features folk costumes, implements, household items and interiors of traditional homes from around Romania.