Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  Naval History MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul Marinei Române; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-619 035; Str Traian 53; adult/child 10/5 lei; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)

  This museum offers a fascinating if slightly confusing stroll through 2000 years of maritime history on the Black Sea. The exhibit begins in the Greco-Roman period, with some intricate models of old Roman boats, but quickly moves to the 19th and 20th centuries. The garden is strewn with relics of real propellers, landmines and torpedoes that seem to be rusting into the ground.

  Seaside Promenade & Around

  One of the city's finest assets is a peaceful promenade that meanders along the waterfront, offering sweeping views of the Black Sea. The crown jewel of the promenade is the gloriously derelict casino.

  CasinoHISTORIC BUILDING

  (Faleza Casino Constanţa; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Elisabeta 1; hclosed to the public)

  Constanţa's stunning but sadly derelict art nouveau casino, dating from 1910, was awaiting a long overdue renovation at the time of research and closed to the public. The building was commissioned by King Carol I and once drew monied holidaymakers from across Europe. It fell on hard times after the fall of communism and has struggled to find a suitor ever since.

  AquariumAQUARIUM

  (Acvariu; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-481 461; www.delfinariu.ro; Faleza Casino Constanţa, B-dul Elisabeta 1; adult/child 20/10 lei; h9.30am-8.30pm Jun–mid-Sep, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Sep–May)

  This waterfront aquarium focuses on fish native to the Black Sea, including a large selection of endangered sturgeon, as well as local freshwater species.

  Outside the Centre

  Natural Sciences Museum ComplexMUSEUM

  (Dolphinarium/Delfinariu; GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-481 230; www.delfinariu.ro; B-dul Mamaia 255; adult/child 25/12 lei; h9am-8pm)

  The museum complex is more of a zoo than traditional museum, with exhibits on flora and fauna, including live birds and other animals, common to the Black Sea region. The complex features a dolphinarium, with daily performances of trained dolphins. Bear in mind that sea-animal encounters and similar shows have received criticism from animal-welfare groups who claim the captivity of marine life is debilitating and stressful for the animals, and that this is exacerbated by human interaction.

  PlanetariumPLANETARIUM

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.delfinariu.ro; B-dul Mamaia 255; adult/child 10/5 lei; hshows at 10am, 11.30am, 1.30pm, 3.30pm, 4.30pm)

  Constanţa's planetarium, located just next to the Natural Sciences Museum Complex, is a fun rainy-day treat for kids. The 3D projection shows throughout the day are narrated in Romanian, but the visual effects are stunning and will wow small kids.

  2Activities

  Swim in the Black Sea at Modern Beach (Plaja Modern; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Ștefan cel Mare), situated at the eastern end of Str Ștefan cel Mare (walk down the steps). It’s a pleasant enough place to get your feet wet, but the facilities at nearby Mamaia are superior.

  Condor Cruise Boat (Plimbari pe mare; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0729-199 538, 0742-817 916; www.facebook.com/CondorsiTomis; Marina, Portul Tomis; per person per hour 25 lei (minimum of six persons); h9am-10pm May-Sep) offers tailored sightseeing tours suitable for six to 12 people. You'll find the boat anchored at the city's tourist port (Tomis Turist Port), in front of the On Plonge restaurant.

  4Sleeping

  During the summer season, don’t be surprised if you’re approached at the train station with offers of private rooms. The prices are attractive (rooms for 60 to 100 lei) compared to hotels, but the rooms are likely to be nothing special, with shared bathrooms and scant privacy. The nearest camping ground is north of Mamaia.

  oHotel ChericaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0756-617 174; www.cherica.ro; Str Ştefan cel Mare 4; s/d 240/280 lei; pnaiW)

  Beautifully refurbished townhouse with spacious, suite-like rooms on three floors. The rooms have retained period details like large windows and panelled walls, but given a modern makeover with thick carpets and gleaming baths. The location is just next to Constanţa's beach and within easy walking distance of the old port area.

  Hotel MariaHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-611 711; www.hotelmaria-ct.ro; B-dul 1 Decembrie 1918, 2d; s/d 160/200 lei; aW)

  This simple, modern hotel sits across the park from the train station and close to the bus station and makes sense if you're arriving late or departing early. The rooms feature big windows, modern baths and writing desks.

  Hotel FerdinandHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-617 974; www.hotelferdinand.ro; B-dul Ferdinand 12; s/d/ste 220/260/380 lei; pnaW)

  Arguably the best three-star hotel in town. Nothing fancy, just a well-run property in a smart, nicely restored 1930s townhouse. Rooms have fridges and big, comfy beds. The hotel is within easy walking distance of virtually everything, including the city beach. Mamaia-bound maxitaxis leave from across the street.

  Villa AnticusHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0722-611 114; www.vilaanticus.ro; B-dul Tomis 23; s 260 lei, d 290-360 lei; naiW)

  This stylishly renovated boutique hotel on the pedestrianised section of lower B-dul Tomis is close to the city's beach, port and most sights. All rooms feature top-quality mattresses as well as high-end towels and toiletries; pricier rooms are more spacious. The neighbourhood is slowly gentrifying but still spotty in sections.

  5Eating

  Constanţa has some of the best restaurants in this part of Romania. Enjoy fresh fish by the port and a range of other restaurants scattered around the centre.

  oIrish PubINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-550 400; www.irishpub.ro; Str Ştefan cel Mare 1; mains 20-40 lei; h8am-midnight; W)

  Several years after it opened to an enthusiastic reception, this is still the place to see and be seen, and one of the best meals in town. There are a couple of pub staples like burgers, and fish and chips, but the menu has higher aspirations, with steaks and grilled fish. It's equally good for beer or coffee. Booking at meal times is essential.

  PizzicoINTERNATIONAL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0746-013 004; www.pizzico.ro; Piaţa Ovidiu 7; mains 15-40 lei; h8am-2.30am; W)

  Pizzico has greatly expanded its range in the past couple of years, moving beyond very good wood-fired pizza to excellent grilled meats, seafood and chops. The location, on Piaţa Ovidiu, makes it easy to pair lunch here with a visit to a nearby museum.

  On PlongeSEAFOOD$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-601 905; www.onplonge.ro; Tomis Turist Port; mains 15-40 lei; h10am-11.30pm)

  This brawny portside eatery with an informal, everyman vibe specialises in fresh fish hauled in off the boat. Gets packed on summer nights and service suffers accordingly. The views out over the port and the old town are stunning.

  Marco PoloITALIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-617 357; Str Sarmizegetuza 2, cnr Str Mircea cel Bătrân; mains 30-50 lei; hnoon-10.30pm; W)

  A swanky Italian restaurant where servers swarm to keep patrons happy. Portions are generous and the pizza, pasta, meat, fish and veg dishes are all delicious. You might consider dressing up for this one.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Cafes usually do double duty as drinking establishments after sunset. In summer much of the drinking and clubbing action shifts to Mamaia, and Constanţa can feel like a ghost town.

  oBarissimoCAFE, COCKTAIL BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0736-366 101; www.barissimo.ro; B-dul Ferdinand 32; h8am-1am; W)

  Worth a trip to admire the stunning steampunk-inspired interior of tiles and colours and big bar built from stacks of pulped paperback books. Great coffee, superb cocktails and a smart, hipsterish vibe make this a great stop for a coffee break or a longer evening session over drinks. There's a small lunch menu as well, with salads, sandwiches and burgers.

  CrazyCAFE, BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0726-779 292; www.crazycafe.ro; Str Mircea cel Bătrân 97a; cocktails 20 lei; h9am-2am; W)

  This is a sty
lish and secluded spot for coffee or drinks, and works equally well for relaxing in the afternoon or partying in the evening. The main draws are the generous open-air terrace, decent cocktails and a bar built wholly from tree branches laid horizontally. They also do breakfasts (15 to 21 lei) and light bites throughout the day.

  3Entertainment

  Phoenix ClubLIVE MUSIC

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0730-617 787; www.club-phoenix.ro; Str Capitan Dobrilă Eugeniu 1; h7pm-3am)

  Legendary rock club with a rep that goes back to the '90s for bringing to Constanţa Romania's biggest rock and metal acts. Check the walls for a list of groups that have played here over the years. It's still going strong, with live music most weekends. Check the website for details.

  Oleg Danovski National TheatreOPERA, BALLET

  (Teatrul Naţional de Operă şi Balet 'Oleg Danovski'; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 0241-481 460; www.tnobconstanta.ro; Str Mircea cel Bătrân 97; tickets 15-30 lei; hbox office 10am-5pm Mon-Fri)

  The city's premier venue for opera and dance. Buy tickets at the theatre box office or the central ticket office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-488 247; www.opera-balet-constanta.ro; B-dul Tomis 97; h10am-7pm Wed-Fri, 4-8pm Sat & Sun).

  8Information

  There are abundant banks and ATMs in the centre.

  Constanţa Country Emergency HospitalHOSPITAL

  (Spitalul Clinic Judeţean de Urgenţă Constanţa; GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-662 222; www.spitalulconstanta.ro; B-dul Tomis 145)

  Forte-GamesINTERNET

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-551 251; www.forte-games.ro; B-dul Tomis 235; per hour 6 lei; h24hr)

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus

  Constanţa, like many large Romanian cities, has several bus stations, depending on which bus line is operating the route. Buses to Bucharest (60 lei, three to four hours) and to the southern resorts, including Vama Veche (13.50 lei, one hour, several daily), often depart from outside the train station. Most other buses use the large southern bus station (Autogara Sud; GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-665 289; B-dul Ferdinand), about 200m north of the train station. Buses to Tulcea (35 lei, two to three hours) and points north often leave from other parts of town. Your best best is to check the website www.autogari.ro to see times and departure points.

  Several buses and minibuses make the 30-minute run out to Mamaia throughout the day. A convenient bus stop for Mamaia ( GOOGLE MAP ) is located on B-dul Ferdinand, across the street from the Hotel Ferdinand.

  Train

  Constanţa’s train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-614 960; www.cfrcalatori.ro; B-dul Ferdinand 45) is near the southern bus station, 2km southwest of the centre; buses run from a central stop ( GOOGLE MAP ) on B-dul Ferdinand to the station. There are several fast Inter-City trains a day to Bucharest (60 lei, two to three hours). There are also daily services to Suceava (100 lei, eight hours), Iaşi (90 lei, eight hours), Timişoara (120 lei, 14 hours), via Arad, and other destinations. In summer, several trains a day head from Constanţa south to Mangalia (8 lei, 1½ hours), with stops at resorts in between.

  WORTH A TRIP

  THE ANCIENT GREEK POLIS OF HISTRIA

  About 65km north of Constanţa, Histria, or Istros, settled in 657 BC by Greek traders, is Romania’s oldest town. Its founding by Greek colonists, through the Hellenic decline, the rise and fall of the Roman Empire and then the rise of Byzantium, forms a fascinating microcosm of early settlement in this part of the world.

  Over the centuries, Histria became a key commercial port, superseding even that at Constanţa. But subsequent Goth attacks coupled with the gradual sand-locking of the harbour led to its equally rapid decline. By the 7th century AD the town was abandoned.

  Its ruins were discovered and excavated in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Relics uncovered at the site are displayed in the Histria Archaeological Complex & Museum (%0241-618 763; www.histria-cheiledobrogei.ro; Istria; adult/child 20/5 lei; h9am-8pm). From the entrance to the site, paths lead visitors through the ancient city’s remains, and pass by the big tower into the western sector, where most of the public buildings, the thermal baths and the civil basilica stood. Close by is the Christian basilica, built with stones from the old theatre in the 6th century AD.

  Mamaia

  Pop 200

  Mamaia, a thin strip of sand extending north from Constanţa, is Romania's most popular and expensive package-holiday resort. In season, from early June to early September, the 8km-long beachfront is lined end to end with sunbathers from all around Romania, who compete for that precious patch of seaside real estate. By night, Mamaia morphs into what feels like one long nightclub, with dozens of high-adrenaline dance places and impromptu beach parties.

  2Activities

  Mamaia’s main activities are sunbathing and swimming. The beach stretches for 8km, with the southern end, towards Constanţa, being the most crowded and least appealing. The further north you go the more exclusive the resorts become, with correspondingly nicer sand and cleaner water. The beachfront is sectioned off into smaller private beaches, usually belonging to a hotel or sponsored by companies; entry is free but you'll be expected to rent a lounge chair (15 lei per day) or daybed (single/double 35/50 lei per day).

  Crush BeachBEACH

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0767-488 944; www.facebook.com/ClubCrush.ro; Telegondola Station (northern end); free admission, s/d daybed 35/50 lei; h8am-11pm Jun-Sep)

  Popular beach located beside the northern terminus of Mamaia's telegondola line.

  Aqua MagicWATER PARK

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-831 176; www.aqua-magic.ro; adult/child Jun & Sep 40/20 lei, Jul & Aug 70/30 lei; h10am-6pm Jun & Sep, 9am-7pm Jul & Aug)

  This amazing water park (at the southern end of the telegondola station) has pools, slides and inner-tube rides galore. It can get very crowded on summer weekends, so try to arrive early to snag a decent chair, or go during the week.

  Boats to Ovidiu IslandBOATING

  (Insula Ovidiu; GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-550 550; B-dul Mamaia; per person one-way 20 lei, child under 7 yr free; hboats 10am-11.30pm)

  In summer boats ferry tourists across Lake Siutghiol to Insula Ovidiu (Ovidiu Island), where there's a good restaurant and Ovid's tomb is said to be located. They depart every 30 minutes from a small unmarked wharf on the lake (not the beach) toward the northern end of the Mamaia resort.

  4Sleeping

  Mamaia is flush with resort complexes that are better attuned to handling package tours than walk-ins. If you know your dates in advance and plan to stay at least three days, you’re better off arranging a package through a travel agency like Mistral Tours. You’ll save plenty on the rack rate and spare yourself the hassle of going from hotel to hotel trying to find a free room. See www.turistinfo.ro for a complete list of Mamaia hotels.

  Hotel OvidiuHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0241-831 590; www.hotelovidiu.ro; Aleea Falezei; d/tr 250/350 lei; naW)

  This simple two-star hotel offers basic, clean rooms at a good price and not much else. Request an upper-floor room to get a better sea view. It's located about the middle of the resort, just south of the northern telegondola station.

  Hotel SplendidHOTEL$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0341-412 541; www.splendidhotel.ro; B-dul Mamaia, Mamaia Nord; s/d 480/560 lei; pnaiW)

  This five-storey modern hotel, built in 2007, is a quiet option since it's on the western side of the main road (away from the beachfront, along Lake Siutghiol). The 31 rooms get high marks for cleanliness and the adjoining restaurant is a decent choice for a meal. You'll find it on the northern end of the resort.

  5Eating

  Almost every hotel has its own adjoining restaurant and there are numerous fast-food stands and self-serve restaurants lining the boardwalk.

  La MamaROMANIAN$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0730-526 262; www.lamama.ro; Faleza Casino Mamaia; mains 20-35 lei; h9am-2am May-Sep; W)

  This branch of a reliable local chain serves up huge portions of traditional Romanian specialities at affordable, family-friendly prices. Y
ou'll find it on the main promenade about 200m south of the northern telegondola station.

  oChevaletINTERNATIONAL$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-421 501; www.restaurantchevalet.com; Complex Enigma; mains 50-80 lei; h11am-11pm; W)

  Head chef Nelu Păucă trained around the world before opening this romantic beachfront restaurant on the far northern end of Mamaia. Specialities include steak tartare, frog legs and a mouthwatering array of beef, pork and seafood. Book in advance to secure a table on the sea.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Mamaia is known around the country for its vibrant party scene. In season, the clubs decamp from Constanţa and reopen en masse on the coast, filling the air with the thump-thump beat of dance music nightly, starting at around 10pm and continuing until the wee hours.

  Crazy BeachCLUB

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0726-676 666; www.crazybeach.ro; B-dul Mamaia Nord; h8am-1am)

  One of the hottest clubs in Mamaia is this open-air lounge and cocktail bar, situated in the extreme north of Mamaia, about 4km beyond the northern telegondola station. Take a taxi (about 10 lei from central Mamaia). By day, this is a relatively chilled out beach, with clean sand and comfortable lounge chairs.

  8Information

  Mistral ToursTRAVEL AGENCY