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Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

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by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)


  United States had little intention of making any of the territory into a

  new state, the country did not have any problems with overthrowing the

  status quo in the territories and attempting to ‘ enforce’’ a democracy in

  lands that had barely even heard of the concept. Much of this heavy-

  handed behavior occurred during Theodore Roosevelt’s presidency.

  Roosevelt apparently believed that the ends justified the means. If he

  was able to somehow advance the prosperity of Americans by getting

  involved in the politics of other governments, he would. A classic example

  of this was his involvement in the development of the Panama Canal.

  The French had tried unsuccessfully to build a canal across the Isth-

  mus of Panama in the latter half of the 1800s. Disease, the mountainous

  terrain, and the distance from France caused problems, and the company

  trying to build the canal abandoned the project. Roosevelt wanted a canal

  because he believed it would simplify the transfer of goods between the

  two coasts of the continental United States. Roosevelt did not want to

  pay for the rights to the parts of the canal that had been completed by

  the French, so he identified another site and negotiated with the Nicara-

  guans for rights to a canal.

  The Isthmus of Panama was at that time located in the country of

  Colombia. The company that owned the rights to the canal wanted the

  United States to complete what the French had started, so they lowered

  the price. Eventually, the U.S. Senate opted for the Panama Canal site af-

  ter an effective lobbying campaign by the French canal group that owned

  large portions of land in the path of the proposed Panama site. When

  the Colombians tried to get more money into their government coffers,

  Roosevelt encouraged the Panamanians to revolt against the Colombian

  government. When they did, with the help of the U.S. Navy, Roosevelt

  acknowledged the Panamanian government and negotiated a treaty with

  them to complete the canal. Roosevelt even managed to keep control

  of the canal itself in American hands, and Panama did not assume control

  of the canal until almost seventy years later.

  During the next several years, Roosevelt engaged in activities that

  were intended to enforce the Monroe Doctrine. Roosevelt was willing to

  The 1900s

  25

  acquire territory outside the geographical boundaries of the country. He

  mediated an end to the Russo-Japanese War and won a Noble Peace Prize

  for his efforts. The fact that neither side was totally satisfied with the

  peace was ignored by most world leaders. Years later, the world would re-

  alize that the treaty planted the seeds that would create more problems

  than could be envisioned.

  Both the Russian and Japanese Empires wanted control over Manchu-

  ria and Korea. Their competing ambitions led to the Russo-Japanese War

  (1904 1905). Russia and most of the rest of the world were surprised that

  the Russian Empire could not win a war against Japan. This upset many

  people, who blamed the czar for the defeat. Many of the people, as well

  as many powerful Russians, felt that the czar’s government was weak and

  corrupt. They perceived the defeat as a loss of power and a signal that the

  czar’s government had to change. This attitude would ultimately allow

  Vladimir Lenin to successfully overthrow the Russian monarchy and

  establish a Soviet state in Russia. Few people expected this change in gov-

  ernment to have far-reaching consequences. This particular change would

  have a major impact on the world long after the Russian Revolution of

  1917.

  The Japanese also felt that the peace treaty diminished its reputation

  in the eyes of the world. They believed they could win a war with Rus-

  sia, although Russia was considered much more powerful at the start of

  the war. Many Japanese began to feel that they needed to do something

  to show the world that they were a strong and powerful country.

  Although some thoughtful people were aware that Japan felt the treaty

  an insult to the country and its emperor, few people had any idea that

  the desire to show their power to the world would result in a much

  larger war decades later.

  Few American people gave much thought to either Russia or Japan.

  Many in the United States wanted to be recognized and respected by the

  rest of the world so that the United States could benefit from trade with

  other countries. Outside of trade concerns, many Americans were gener-

  ally disinterested and wanted to stay uninvolved with the affairs of other

  countries. Americans, even if they were not aware of George Washington’s

  belief that the country should isolate itself from the affairs of Europe and

  Asia, acted on that belief. They were willing to trade with Europe and

  Asia, but they did not want to get involved in the problems of other

  nations.

  Many of those other nations, however, felt as if they had to defend

  themselves against past slights from past enemies. Allies shifted and

  changed, and then the European nations settled into treaties with each

  26

  POLITICAL AND CULTURAL EVENTS

  other. If two countries declared a treaty, some other country would feel

  threatened, and it formed a treaty with a fourth country. In many treaties,

  there was a clause that said if a country was attacked, other countries

  would automatically come to its aid. In this way, a mesh of alliances was

  developed that would engage the world in the largest war the globe had

  ever seen.

  ETHNICITY IN AMERICA

  The American Civil War was still a clear memory in the minds of many

  Americans. Many war veterans were still alive at the dawn of the new

  millennium. Reconstruction was a bad memory to many in the South,

  and attitudes toward ‘ negroes,’’ as African Americans were called, were

  still negative. Many people, especially in the South, blamed the negroes

  for the war. Many whites could remember the days before the war and

  wished that Southern lifestyle still existed. Lynchings had reached a high

  point in the 1890s (Murrin et al. 2004); although they had diminished in

  number, new laws intended to disenfranchise African Americans were

  passed. The so-called ‘ separate but equal’ facilities were established, and

  the Supreme Court, in the landmark Plessy v. Ferguson case in 1896, sanc-

  tioned the ‘‘Jim Crow’ laws.

  In last part of the 1890s and the early 1900s, black leaders such as

  Booker T. Washington accepted the discrimination as long as there was

  still some level of advancement. Many blacks agreed that, as long as there

  was some advancement, such as the establishment of negro colleges, the

  Jim Crow laws were acceptable. Blacks were able to enlist in the military,

  but they were only allowed to join all-negro units. Theodore Roosevelt

  relied on black units during the Spanish-American War but shied away

  from acknowledging their efficiency in later years (Murrin et al. 2004).

  Blacks were not the only recipients of discrimination. Asians on the

  American west coast were as poorly treated as negroes were in the South.
r />   The federal government had limited the number of Chinese immigrants

  in the late 1800s, but as Japan grew in power and population, many Japa-

  nese began to immigrate to California. In a ‘ gentlemen’s agreement’ in

  1907, Roosevelt agreed to halt blatant discrimination against the Japanese

  if Japan would stop the immigration of adult males into the United States

  (Murrin et al. 2004, 532).

  At the turn of the century, Eastern European Jews immigrated to the

  United States in great numbers. Unlike other immigrants, when Jews

  from Russia, Poland, Romania, Austria-Hungary, and the Ukraine left

  their homelands, they had no intent of returning. Governed by laws that

  The 1900s

  27

  discriminated against them and their religious beliefs, Eastern European

  Jews were forced to live as outcasts in their home countries. Facing lives

  of poverty, starvation, and violence, two million Jews left their homelands

  in search of better lives (Schrier 1994).

  Like many immigrant families, Eastern European Jewish families of-

  ten sent husbands and sons to America first to establish themselves and

  get jobs before the women and children in the family made the voyage.

  There was often a gap of one to three years before families were reunited,

  and the men usually had adapted to the vastly different American lifestyle

  within that gap. Americanized men and women were often ashamed of

  their family members’ old-fashioned appearance when they came to

  America. They did not want their family to look like ‘‘greenhorns,’’ and

  they purchased new American clothing for their arrival.

  No Wigs. In their homelands, Eastern

  Americanized relatives found sheitls

  European Jewish women wore tradi-

  particularly embarrassing, because the

  tional dress, which included an uncor-

  custom was very noticeable and unique

  seted dress, an apron, and a headscarf.

  to their ethnic group. They found that

  Married Jewish women were expected

  looking and acting ‘American’ helped

  to cut their hair short and wear a sheitl,

  them achieve success, and they were not

  a wig made of obviously artificial hair.

  tolerant of outward appearances that

  They did this in accordance with the

  differentiated them. Not all women

  Jewish custom that required married

  could be persuaded, and many older

  women to keep their hair covered at all

  women especially, and grandmothers,

  times. It was an act of modesty. When

  continued to wear traditional dress and

  they did not wear the wig, they wore a

  sheitls.

  headscarf to fulfill the custom.

  Typically, younger women who were

  On reaching American shores, most

  not strict observers of orthodox Judaism

  married women were encouraged to give

  quickly adopted fashionable American

  up the custom and traditional dress by

  dress. They usually worked in the gar-

  their relatives or country people. This

  ment industry, and being around the

  was often a contentious decision for

  latest fashions naturally piqued their in-

  older women, who felt they were sinning

  terest in wearing up-to-date garments.

  and betraying their conviction to their

  They embraced tightly corseted waists,

  religion. They were usually encouraged

  shirtwaists with monobosoms, the full,

  by their families to give up their old-

  thick pompadour hairstyle, and enor-

  fashioned dress that made them look

  mous, lavishly decorated hats.

  older than they were.

  28

  POLITICAL AND CULTURAL EVENTS

  T H E

  1910S

  GOVERNMENT AND POLITICAL MOVEMENTS

  Progress was a word that characterized the early 1900s, and the Progres-

  sive movement hit its zenith in the 1910s. The reformers who were part

  of this movement aimed to improve nearly every facet of American life.

  By tackling issues from lowering tariffs and breaking up business trusts to

  improving working conditions and allowing women to vote, reformers

  from the local to the federal level worked to progress the country forward.

  William Howard Taft assumed the presidency in 1909. He was hand-

  picked by Theodore Roosevelt, but, during his four years in office, he

  managed to alienate Roosevelt, big business, and reformers. During the

  election of 1912, Taft received the fewest electoral votes of an incumbent

  president.

  Woodrow Wilson, an educator, became president in 1913. He was

  aware that Europe was in turmoil and did not think that the United

  States should interfere in what he believed was a strictly European con-

  flict. For three years, Wilson kept the country out of the European war.

  It was only in 1917, after Wilson had won his second term in office, that

  he began to realize that the United States would have to enter the war.

  After the ‘‘Zimmermann telegram,’’ in which the Germans told the Mexi-

  can government that Mexico could regain its territory if it attacked the

  United States, the county was incensed. Furthermore, Germany continued

  to attack neutral ships with its first effective submarine, the Unterseeboot

  (U-boat), and the czarist regime in Russia fell. Without the help of the

  Russian army, the Allies would have increased trouble with Germany.

  Wilson did not want to go to war, but he thought his country needed to

  help the Allies. Congress declared war in 1917.

  By the time WWI was over, the United States had solidified its role

  as a world power. Many citizens wanted to return to the peaceful years of

  isolation before the war, but that was not to be. The returning soldiers

  had seen parts of the world that most Americans had never visited. With

  men away at the war, women had taken on tasks and jobs, and they were

  not interested in returning to a role that limited them to the kitchen.

  Women campaigned for and eventually received the right to vote. The

  United States that celebrated the peace in 1918 was a country with new

  ideas, a new attitude about its role in the world, and a desire to establish

  new policies and customs instead of following what others had created.

  The 1910s

  29

  ECONOMIC TRENDS

  The building of the Panama Canal in the early 1900s was considered one

  of the greatest construction achievements of the world. The economic

  impact of the canal was even greater than its engineering achievements.

  The canal had originally been planned for Nicaragua. When political

  complications arose, Congress tried to get an agreement with Colombia

  to build the canal. None of the plans worked until Panama won its inde-

  pendence, with considerable help from the United States, and granted the

  United States permission to build the canal. The canal cost the lives of

  thousands of men, mainly as a result of malaria and yellow fever. Walter

  Reed, a U.S. Army surgeon, aided in the development of a vaccine that

  helped eradicate the disease. Once the canal was fini
shed in 1914, it was

  extremely successful. It cut the shipping route by half, thereby dramati-

  cally reducing the cost and travel time of goods.

  Big business, a term that was used to describe large-scale or powerful

  businesses, started the century believing it controlled the country. Big

  business was extremely powerful and generally got what it wanted. It sac-

  rificed workers’ quality of life for profits. Many workers were subjected to

  long hours, hazardous working conditions, low pay, and unstable jobs.

  Workers established unions and fought to get business to adopt rules that

  would benefit them. Although the unions’ pressure resulted in successes at

  individual companies and within individual industries throughout the

  1910s, they were also having an impact on business as a whole. Their

  work led to the Fair Labor Standards Act in 1938. A combination of

  events, including the persistency of the unions, the increase in the popu-

  larity of the Progressive Party, and the improved economy, gradually

  weakened the strength of the business moguls and equalized the economic

  prosperity the country was experiencing.

  William Howard Taft was Roosevelt’s successor. During the adminis-

  trations of both presidents, the United States became interested in and

  increased the amount of land under conservation control of the federal

  government. Many businesses saw this as an infringement on their right

  to grow their businesses. Both presidents fought against business trusts in

  an attempt to allow smaller businesses to grow. Taft initiated eighty anti-

  trust suits against big business that unfairly dominated their industries.

  When President Wilson took office, he continued the offensive

  against big business. He implemented a reform program called ‘‘New

  Freedom’ that aimed at banking reform and business regulation. He used

  these strategies to erode the power of corporate trusts and build the power

  of small businesses. In 1914, he proposed the Clayton Antitrust Act,

  30

  POLITICAL AND CULTURAL EVENTS

  which outlawed monopolies, and the Federal Trade Commission, which

  investigated and enforced the Clayton Antitrust Act.

  Taft was president when the Sixteenth Amendment was ratified.

  Through the amendment, a federal income tax could be established, and

  everyone, theoretically, would be taxed fairly, by rules established by Con-

 

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