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Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

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by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)


  gress. Although overshadowed to some degree by the political situation in

  Europe and the eventual start of WWI, the federal income tax would

  have an economic impact on the country that no one could recognize at

  that time.

  Another seemingly small change that would have major repercussions

  was the status of women. At the beginning of the century, it was expected

  that the lives of women would continue much as they had always been,

  centered on the home. The country’s economic development changed rap-

  idly as the situation in Europe deteriorated. Once war was declared, the

  economy became driven by the need to provide American fighting men

  the tools they needed. The war was larger than any war man had experi-

  enced up to that time. So many American men were sent overseas that

  women volunteered to do the tasks that men had been doing. For the first

  time in history, American women were working in numbers no one had

  ever imagined. If many men expected women to return to the domestic

  roles they had before the war, they were surprised. Women had entered

  the American workforce. The initial effects on the economy would not be

  seen until the 1920s.

  INTERNATIONAL DEVELOPMENTS

  In 1914, a Bosnia nationalist assassinated the Archduke Franz Ferdinand,

  heir to the Austro-Hungarian Empire in Sarajevo, Bosnia. The assassina-

  tion most likely was intended to be a message to the Austro-Hungarians

  that the area wanted its independence. The empire declared war on Ser-

  bia, because the country was seen as being responsible for the duke’s

  murder.

  What had been a ‘ simple’’ assassination triggered the alliances that

  had been established in the preceding years. Countries who were

  obligated by their treaties to protect Serbia declared war on the Austro-

  Hungarians. Countries that had treaties with the Austro-Hungarians

  declared war on Serbia and its allies. It was not long before all of Europe,

  as well as Russia and the Ottoman Empire, was involved in the largest

  war seen in the world up to that time. The two sides were evenly

  matched, so the war dragged on for years. Each side tried to acquire more

  allies to tip the balance of power in its favor.

  The 1910s

  31

  Although Theodore Roosevelt might have gotten the country involved

  in the war earlier, he was no longer president. Woodrow Wilson did his

  best to maintain the neutrality of the United States. This was not an

  absolute neutrality because the United States had become closely tied to

  England and France by trade agreements. The ‘ neutral’ president allowed

  shipments of goods and supplies to be shipped to England and France.

  When the British blockaded American ports to prevent the Germans

  from entering, Wilson protested, but he never suspended trade.

  Germany, in its attempt to tip the balance of power, began to use the

  first effective submarine, or U-boat. The most famous sinking by a

  U-boat may be that of the Lusitania on May 7, 1915 (Murrin et al.

  2004). The lives of 1,198 people were lost, including 128 Americans. The

  Lusitania was a passenger ship, and its sinking shifted the tide of Ameri-

  can thinking away from neutrality. Wilson protested and Germans agreed

  not to torpedo passenger ships, especially ships of neutral countries, but

  that was a promise that Germany did not keep. Wilson maintained

  American neutrality, against much criticism, until the publication of the

  Zimmermann telegram, which reportedly came from the German minister

  to Mexico. The telegram requested that the Mexican government attack

  the United States in the event that the United States declared war on

  Germany. Mexico’s reward for this ‘‘favor’ would be the return of lands

  that the United States had obtained from Mexico over the years. That

  land included Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. This telegram, as well as

  the overthrow of the czarist regime by the Bolsheviks, forced Wilson to

  ask Congress to declare war on Germany, which it did on April 6, 1917.

  After the war, Wilson worked for a just peace and the development of

  the League of Nations. He presented his plan, called Wilson’s Fourteen

  Points, for what he believed was an appropriate resolution for all of the

  countries involved. He also hoped that a global organization would help

  prevent other wars, but his efforts to broker a peace that satisfied every-

  one and a long-term global organization were not successful. Many others

  felt that Germany should be severely punished for its behavior in the war.

  Wilson’s critics did not realize that the so-called peace treaty and the lack

  of a global organization that would work for peace would plant the seeds

  for an even greater war.

  ETHNICITY

  Over the first two decades of the twentieth century, Americans saw an

  increase in the number of immigrants of all nationalities. The 1910s were

  the last major phase of immigrants from eastern and southern Europe,

  32

  POLITICAL AND CULTURAL EVENTS

  and they fed into America’s burgeoning economy. When America left its

  isolationism and began to trade heavily with other countries, goods

  needed to be produced for trade. Manufacturing and industry needed

  cheap labor, and much of it came from new immigrants. New immigrants

  needed work, and they were willing to take the dirty and dangerous jobs

  that most Americans did not want. These jobs were frequently found in

  coal mines, steel mills, the railroads, and slaughterhouses.

  Slowly, many Americans began to resent the presence of these immi-

  grants. Hostility intensified during WWI when latent fears rose to the

  Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Tragedy. In

  the factory. As the fire blazed through

  the 1900s and early 1910s, it was com-

  the top three floors, the employees tried

  mon for young women to work in factory

  to flee the building. Some were able to

  jobs, especially in the garment manufac-

  escape using the exterior fire escape

  turing industry. They usually worked

  before it collapsed, and others were able

  long hours for low wages in unsafe con-

  to make it to the roof and climb onto

  ditions. It was typical for a woman to

  adjacent buildings. One hundred forty-

  work from 7:30 in the morning to 6:00

  six were trapped inside the building and

  at night six or seven days a week.

  burned, suffocated, or jumped to their

  These working conditions existed at

  deaths.

  the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory in Man-

  There was immediate public outrage,

  hattan. The company employed 500

  and the factory owners were brought to

  people, mostly young women between

  trial to determine whether they had pur-

  the ages of 16 and 23. Most were recent

  posefully locked the exits, trapping the

  Italian and European Jewish immigrants

  employees inside. Although they were

  who spoke little English. They sewed

  acquitted, the resulting anger and protest

  garments by hand and on
sewing

  had long-reaching effects. It solidified

  machines and cut fabric from tissue pat-

  the influence and support of the Interna-

  terns that were suspended above the

  tional Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union,

  work areas on lines. Their factory was

  who organized aid and relief for the vic-

  illuminated with open gas lighting. Fab-

  tims and their families. In addition, it

  ric scraps littered the floors, and smok-

  spurred the growth of the organization.

  ing in the work space was common

  Within a month, New York State

  among the few male workers.

  appointed a Factory Investigating Com-

  On March 25, 1911, just before clos-

  mission to conduct hearings about fac-

  ing time, a deadly fire broke out near the

  tory safety, which led to factory safety

  top of the ten-story building that held

  regulations in the state.

  The 1920s

  33

  surface. German Americans were a focus of these fears, because they were

  associated with America’s primary enemy in the war.

  African Americans suffered from hostility as well. During the war,

  they moved north for the higher wages being paid by industries suffering

  from the labor shortage. As they migrated to cities in large numbers,

  racial violence flared. Chicago, Houston, St. Louis, and Washington, DC,

  all experienced race riots. Even in the south, people were angry that Afri-

  can Americans were moving north and creating a labor shortage.

  Some Americans organized around their fears and resentment, resulting

  in the reemergence of the Ku Klux Klan, which had lain dormant for nearly

  fifty years. The Klan took advantage of some of the rhetoric of WWI and

  reestablished itself under the guise of Americans First. Klan members

  tended to be white, Anglo-Saxon Protestants, and their hatred extended

  beyond African Americans to include Jews, Catholics, and many people

  who did not speak English, which in some communities meant immigrants

  of any nationality. The war itself tended to limit the growth of the Klan

  because most Americans were united in the war effort. After the war, issues

  relating to discrimination did not get national attention until the 1920s.

  T H E

  1920S

  GOVERNMENT AND POLITICAL MOVEMENTS

  The 1920s will be remembered for many things, not the least of which

  will be the fact that Warren Gamaliel Harding was the first president of

  the decade. Harding, a passive man who would do whatever the Republi-

  can Party bosses told him to do, helped his friends and paid off political

  debts by appointing people to government offices whether or not they

  had any skills or knowledge of the office. Harding must have been a trust-

  ing person, because he only seemed to have realized late in his presidency

  that most of his ‘‘friends’’ had used their offices to gain money and enjoy

  the ‘ perks’’ their positions could get them. One of the scandals uncovered

  by the press was the fact that Albert B. Fall, the Secretary of the Interior,

  leased the navy’s petroleum reserves in Teapot Dome, Wyoming, to two

  oilmen. The oilmen, Harry Sinclair and Edward L. Doheny, showed their

  appreciation by ‘ loaning’’ Fall hundreds of thousands of dollars.

  Harding also had several adulterous affairs while in office, which the

  press did not make public until after his death. Harding died of massive

  heart failure before his term was completed, and the American public

  learned the full extent of the improprieties of his administration after his

  34

  POLITICAL AND CULTURAL EVENTS

  death. Many historians have considered Harding one of the worst presi-

  dents, if not the worst, the country ever had.

  Calvin Coolidge became president upon Harding’s death and quickly

  replaced the cronies and incompetents that he inherited from Harding.

  Known for his own personal honesty, Coolidge won the next election on

  his own, with some help from a Democratic Party that was split over

  politics.

  Coolidge’s Secretary of Commerce, Herbert Hoover, was considered

  the man best educated and qualified to succeed Coolidge. Seen as one of

  the architects of the apparent prosperity of the 1920s, Hoover won the

  1928 election easily. Alhough he wanted to end poverty and improve the

  status of the working man, Hoover believed that the economy would be

  maximized if businesses learned to associate and communicate with each

  other. Like earlier Republicans, he believed that the best government was

  one that did not interact with individuals. He encouraged corporations to

  talk to each other and learn to solve problems so that all business would

  help each other, instead of meeting in competition. Although he was

  unable to achieve this ideal, Hoover’s popularity was high for his first year

  in office.

  After the stock market crash in 1929, Hoover began to realize that

  corporations would not communicate as he had hoped they would. He

  still believed that limited government was the best way to help the coun-

  try and refused to consider anything that seemed to be a government

  handout. He might have wanted to help the poor and homeless, but his

  policies were mostly aimed at helping businesses and the wealthy grow

  stronger. Many Americans lost faith in him after the crash, and many

  others strongly disapproved of his management of the Great War veterans

  who came to Washington, DC, seeking financial assistance. Many Ameri-

  cans considered Hoover indifferent to the ‘ little man’ and state of the

  national economy. He never regained the popularity he had in his first

  year. Although he was not individually responsible for the economic

  downturn, many Americans blamed him for it, and he was overwhelm-

  ingly defeated in the 1932 elections.

  ECONOMIC TRENDS

  Coolidge and the leading Republicans believed that business was the key

  to American prosperity, so his presidency was kind to big business and the

  already rich entrepreneurs. Coolidge’s administration was close to bankers

  and tended to advocate policies that benefited only those who worked on

  Wall Street.

  The 1920s

  35

  The administration would slash taxes for the very rich, increase the

  taxes on the middle class, raise tariffs on imports, and would not consider

  canceling the reparations from any of the European countries that owed

  the United States money as a result of the Great War. The country began

  to isolate itself from Europe and Asia but would be aggressive for Ameri-

  can investors in Latin America. Coolidge would even station marines in a

  variety of Latin American countries if local uprisings threatened any

  American investments in those countries.

  Farmers had a difficult time during the 1920s. During WWI, farmers

  increased their production to meet the demands of the war. When the

  war was over, they were left with few buyers and surplus crops. Food pri-

  ces plummeted, and many farmers and young people who had grown up

  on farms moved to the city to find fac
tory work.

  With the proliferation of factory work, young people moved into cities

  to get the high-paying factory jobs. Usually little experience or education

  was required for this type of work, so apprenticeships and schooling were

  no longer part of a young person’s career path. Although the factory jobs

  paid well, they were mundane, and there were few opportunities for

  advancement.

  Factories produced goods and Americans bought them. The idea of

  ‘ buy now, pay later’ became popular, not simply to start a crop or begin a

  business but to buy goods that a family might want. Many families began to

  go into debt to buy consumer goods such as washing or sewing machines.

  Advertisers began learning the psychology of advertising, and they began

  campaigns that told people they ‘ couldn’t live without’ their products. Peo-

  ple who never thought of athlete’s foot, bad breath, or any of a number of

  problems suddenly felt a compulsion to buy products to prevent whatever

  problem the advertisers from Madison Avenue convinced them they

  needed. Businesses grew, but so did the debt incurred by most Americans.

  The economy was stoked by new technologies. Industries welcomed

  faster, more efficient machinery into their factories. Consumers purchased

  modern ‘ labor-saving’’ devices as well as items that had been extravagant

  luxury items, such as automobiles, a decade earlier. Prices were good and

  people became focused on consumption. The focus on saving money was

  replaced with spending it.

  A new scientific approach was applied to business management. Fred-

  erick Taylor, as former machinist, studied the interaction between workers

  and machines to determine how to get them to work together best. Dur-

  ing the 1920s, business was now considered a profession, and the study of

  business was legitimized by the emergence of business schools such as the

  Harvard Graduate School of Business, which was established in 1924.

  36

  POLITICAL AND CULTURAL EVENTS

  The passion that Americans acquired for consumerism was equal to

  their enthusiasm for the stock market. During the 1920s, ordinary people

  began investing in the stock market, an activity that they rarely did before.

  Some borrowed money or paid ‘ on margin’ to acquire stocks. Both meth-

  ods indebted the shareholder and set the scene for devastating financial

  losses later in the decade.

 

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