Lonely Planet China
Page 89
8Getting There & Around
Húběi is well connected to the rest of China by high-speed rail, air, bus and boats along the Yangzi River. Rail travel between most of the big destinations within the province is the best way to go, with bus journeys to more outlying parts.
Wǔhàn 武汉
%027 / Pop 10.6 million
Wǔhàn (武汉) has matured from the sprawling convergence of three smaller cities to an industrial and commercial centre with more than a smattering of fine cultural sites, including the Yellow Crane Tower and a terrific museum. At times it feels ready to leap from its second-tier status, its warring history a thing of a 2000-year-old past.
Amid the traffic and smog, the Yangzi River opens up the densely packed streets, rolling around parks, lakes and a concession-era entertainment district in Hànkǒu, the pick of the three cities, growing in swagger by the financial year. This is not the place of penny postcards, but it's urban China and it's worth getting to know.
History
Although not actually named Wǔhàn until 1927, the city’s three mighty chunks trace their influential status back to the Han dynasty, with Wǔchāng and Hànkǒu vying for political and economic sway. The city was prised open to foreign trade in the 19th century by the Treaty of Nanking.
The 1911 uprising sparked the beginning of the end for the Qing dynasty. Much that wasn’t destroyed then was flattened in 1944 when American forces fire-bombed the city after it had fallen under Japanese control.
Wǔhàn
1Sights
1Guīyuán TempleA4
2Hànkǒu BundC2
3Yellow Crane TowerC4
4Sleeping
4Dorsett WǔhànB2
5Marco PoloC2
6Pathfinder Youth HostelD4
7TomoloB2
8Wǔhàn Bingo International Youth HostelB4
5Eating
9Chángchūn Temple Vegetarian RestaurantD5
10Lǎojiē ShāokǎoB2
11MADE CafeC2
12Xiǎo BèikéC2
6Drinking & Nightlife
13Brussels Beer GardenA1
14Vox LivehouseC2
Transport
15Fùjiāpō Long-Distance Bus StationD5
16Hóngjī Long-Distance Bus StationD5
17Wǔhàn Guān DockC3
18Zhōnghuá Lù DockC4
1Sights
In Hànkǒu, the area west of Yanjiang Dadao remains a hodgepodge of concession-era architecture and historic consulate buildings.
Húběi Provincial MuseumMUSEUM
(湖北省博物馆, Húběi Shěng Bówùguǎn www.hbww.org; 156 Donghu Lu, 东湖路156号 h9am-5pm Tue-Sun, no admission after 3.30pm; mDongting)F
Some minor renovations have lifted one of China's finest public museums to even further heights. The history of China is on display here in all its glorious complexity. The centrepiece is the exhibition of the tomb of Marquis Yi of Zeng, which includes one of the world’s largest musical instruments, a remarkable five-tonne set of 65 double-tone bronze bells. The museum is located by the Húběi Museum of Art and the enormous East Lake (东湖; Dōng Hú).
To get here, take bus 402 or 411.
Húběi Museum of ArtMUSEUM
(湖北美术馆, Húběi Měishùguǎn http://en.hbmoa.com; Donghu Lu, 东湖路 h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)F
As contemporary Chinese artists continue to soar in the art world, institutions such as the excellent Húběi Museum of Art gain increased relevance and acclaim. Bright young things are not the only exhibitors of note; the extensive collection over three levels features signature pieces from most major periods. It's located by enormous East Lake; take bus 402 or 411.
Guīyuán TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(归元寺, Guīyuán Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 20 Cuiweiheng Lu, 翠微横路20号 ¥10; h8am-5pm; mLanjianglu)
An afternoon at this revered 350-year-old Buddhist temple can fluctuate between serenity and chaos, depending on the tour buses. Pass a large rectangular pond where turtles cling like shipwrecked sailors to two metal lotus flowers and examine the magnificently burnished cabinet housing Milefo in the first hall. Also seek out the more than 500 statues of enlightened disciples in the Hall of Arhats (罗汉堂; Luóhàn Táng). Completed in 1890, after nine years in the making, they remain in pristine condition.
Yellow Crane TowerHISTORIC SITE
(黄鹤楼, Huánghè Lóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Wuluo Lu, 武珞路 ¥80; h7.30am-5.30pm, to 6.30pm in summer)
Wǔhàn’s magical dancing crane, immortalised in the 8th-century poetry of Cui Hao, has long flown, but the city’s pride and joy remains perched atop Snake Hill. The tower has had its history rebuilt out of it since the original was constructed in AD 223, and today’s beautiful five-storey, yellow-tiled version is a 1980s remake of the Qing tower that combusted in 1884. Buses 401, 402 and 411, and trolley buses 1 and 10, all go here.
Hànkǒu BundPARK
(汉口江滩, Hànkǒu Jiāngtān MAP GOOGLE MAP )F
The Hànkǒu Bund is a roughly 4km stretch of curated park running parallel to the Yangzi where locals gather to amble or gossip at varying levels of intensity. There are some teahouses and bars, a swimming-pool complex, mah-jong and chess boards, and some green areas. Mostly, though, it's locals escaping the concrete and shooting the breeze, especially around sunrise and sunset.
YELLOW CRANE TOWER BY CUI HAO
Penned in the 8th century by Tang dynasty luminary Cui Hao (崔颢), this poem recalls the departure of someone on the back of a yellow crane, possibly to become an immortal. The spot he left from is now occupied by a tower named after the bird.
黄鹤楼
昔人已乘黄鹤去，此地空余黄鹤楼。
黄鹤一去不复返，白云千载空悠悠。
晴川历历汉阳树，芳草萋萋鹦鹉洲。
日暮乡关何处是，烟波江上使人愁。
Yellow Crane Tower
A man of old left a long time ago on the Yellow Crane; this place is empty save for the Yellow Crane Tower.
Once the Yellow Crane left, it would never return; for a thousand years, the white clouds leisurely drifted.
The trees in Hànyáng are all arrayed by the clear river and the fragrant grasses grow luxuriously on Parrot Isle.
Where are the gates of my home at dusk? The mist and ripples on the river waters make me sad.
4Sleeping
Wǔhàn has excellent high-end hotels, solid midranges and a handful of very pleasant budget options to meet fellow Sinophiles.
oWǔhàn Bingo International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(汉阳造青年公寓, Hànyáng Zàoqīngnián Gōngyù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027 8477 0648; hymhostel@126.com; 9-10 Hànyáng Creative Garden, 1 Guibei Lu, Hànyáng, 龟北路1号汉阳造创意园9-10号 dm ¥50-70, s/d ¥138/148; aiW)
Wǔhàn welcomes a fab new hostel into a Cultural District that signals the city's expanding civic pride. Private rooms are smartly presented, with quality beds, bedside tables, kettles and bathrooms (strong, hot water!) of sound proportions; dorms are orderly and very clean. There's a friendly on-site cafe and some cute shared spaces.
Pathfinder Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(探路者国际青年旅社, Tànlùzhě Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %091 8884 4092; yhawuhan@hotmail.com; 368 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路368号 dm ¥45-60, d/tr ¥160/210; aiW; mPangxiejia)
Wǔhàn’s longest-running youth hostel is a communal place full of artistic temperament, but the cool graffiti also hides some fairly scrubby walls. Dorm rooms are quite spacious and the doubles are bright, but the bathrooms need attention. The real upsides though are the popular bar hang-out and on-the-ball English-speaking staff.
Walk south from exit A2 of Pangxiejia (螃蟹岬) metro station along Zhongshan Lu, and it’s on your right.
Dorsett WǔhànHOTEL$$
(武汉帝盛酒店, Wǔhàn Dìshèng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027 6882 2899; www.dorsetthotels.com/wuhan; 118 Jianghan Lu, Hankou, Hong Kong & Macau Centre, 汉口江汉路步行街
118号 r ¥480-600; paW)
With a handy location on the doorstop of Wǔhàn's best shopping district, the Dorsett is a very attentive and efficient four-star hotel. It's set inside a relaxed mall which has a cinema and nightclubs. Rooms are large, with leather furniture, exquisite bedding and rainforest showers. There's a Hong Kong–style cafe, small gym and well informed English-speaking staff.
TomoloBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(天美乐饭店, Tiānměilè Fàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027 8275 7288; 56 Jianghan Sanlu, 江汉三路56号 r ¥698; aiW; mXunlimen)
Tomolo is a Wǔhàn brand known for style and panache. You'll enjoy the oversized rooms with sofas, wide-screen TVs and lush carpets, while the bathrooms are some of the brightest we encountered in the city, with artisan tiling and power showers. Try to angle for a discount at this central branch. The entrance is tucked down a laneway.
Marco PoloHOTEL$$$
(马哥孛罗酒店, Mǎgē Bóluó Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027 8277 8888; www.marcopolohotels.com; 159 Yanjiang Dadao, 沿江大道159号 r from ¥897; aiWs; mJianghanlu)
Wǔhàn's growing luxury-hotel scene is still led by Marco Polo, which enjoys sweeping river views and an easy stumbling distance from the tree-lined former concession area, which fills with bar-hoppers on weekends.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
Prices are for a double room with private bathroom. Discounts of up to 40% are available at most midrange and high-end hotels.
Category Cost
$ less than ¥150
$$ ¥150–¥500
$$$ more than ¥500
EATING
The following price ranges refer to a standard but substantial main course.
Category Cost
$ less than ¥40
$$ ¥40–¥100
$$$ more than ¥100
5Eating
In Hànkǒu, the alleyways north of Zhongshan Dadao, between Qianjin Yilu (前进一路) and Qianjin Silu (前进四路), are particularly lively. Jiqing Jie (吉庆街) has dàpáidǎng (open-air food stalls) selling seafood and duck, especially the Dazhi Lu end. Cai’e Lu (蔡锷路) has smoky shāokǎo (烧烤, barbecue).
In Wǔchāng, don't miss Hùbù Xiàng Snack Street (户部巷小吃; Hùbù Xiàng Xiǎochī).
Breakfast – called guòzǎo (过早) in Wǔhàn – is all about règānmiàn (热干面; ‘hot-dry noodles’; from ¥4).
Lǎojiē ShāokǎoBARBECUE$
(老街烧烤, Lǎojiē Shāokǎo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jianghan Lu, 武汉路 skewered meat/vegetable ¥14/10; h11am-10pm)
'Old Street Barbecue' takes the popular hawker-style meat-on-stick philosophy espoused on corners nightly around the city, and poshes it up just a little. Large bottles of cheap beer are served by young, well trained staff who try hard to accommodate despite limited English. You can sit on a swing seat and rock yourself to sleep after eating.
oXiǎo BèikéCHINESE$$
(小贝壳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 129 Dongting Jie, 洞庭街129号 mains ¥20-50; h9.30am-10.30pm)
This stylish restaurant, with lovely tree-shaded terrace seating, offers an excellent range of pan-Chinese cuisine, with dishes from Húběi, Sìchuān and Chóngqìng featuring highly. It also does a number of fish dishes, including braised catfish and delicious scallops. There's no English sign; it’s in the yellow building on the corner of Dongting Jie and Cai’e Lu (蔡锷路).
It has an English menu with photos.
MADE CafeCAFE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027 8558 1506; 4 Lihuangbei Lu, 黎黄陂路4号 coffee ¥25-35, cakes from ¥15; h8am-6pm)
This stylish coffee house and cake store serves delicious brews over two levels. The young, funky crowd on laptops also sip fruit beer, wine and tea while planning the night ahead, the looming essay or their next meeting.
Chángchūn Temple Vegetarian RestaurantVEGETARIAN$$
(长春观素菜餐厅, Chángchūnguān Sùcài Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 269 Wuluo Lu, 武珞路269号 mains ¥20-50; h9am-8.30pm; v)
Housed next door to the Chángchūn Temple, this place serves mock-meat creations but also cooks up fish dishes. It has a photo menu.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Hànkǒu is the place to go for a night out; Yanjiang Dadao (沿江大道) and its surrounding lanes are the best places to start. There are neon-tastic nightclubs towards the ferry port, while Lihuangpi Lu (黎黄陂路) is one of a number of lanes with cutesy Western-style cafes.
oVox LivehouseCLUB
(VOX音乐教室 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %027 8759 6030; 163 Shengli Jie, 胜利街163电 tickets usually ¥50-250; h8pm-1am Thu-Sat, other times vary)
Wǔhàn has a surprisingly good indie and heavy-rock scene, and Vox Livehouse is an institution for late-night revelling. Some interesting mainland acts often share the stage with international underground bands.
Brussels Beer GardenBEER GARDEN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08615 033 515822; www.brusselsbg.com; 8-8 Xibeihu Lu, 西北湖路8附8号 beer ¥25-45)
The expatriate bar of choice is a Belgian affair by Běi Lake which serves yummy mini pizzas and burgers to accompany tall, creamy glasses of beer from across the world. Great place to get the scoop on the city from seasoned travellers.
8Information
ATMATM
( GOOGLE MAP ; Wǔchāng)
Located in Wǔchāng.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 65 Huangshi Lu, 黄石路65号 h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat)
Centrally located in Hànkǒu.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 677 Jianshe Dadao, 建设大道677号 h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat)
Located in Hànyáng.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèn GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Zizhi Jie, 自治街2号 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Centrally located post office in Hànkǒu.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèn GOOGLE MAP ; Hanyang Dadao; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Handy post office situated in Hànyáng.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Jianghan Lu, 江汉路10号 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Not far from the river in Hànkǒu.
HSBCBANK
(汇丰银行, Huìfēng Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 632 Jianshe Dadao, 建设大道632号 )
Has an ATM.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %027 8539 5351; 7 Zhangzizhong Lu, 张自忠路7号 h8.30am-noon & 2.30-5.30pm)
Can extend visas.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Tiānhé International Airport (天河飞机场; Tiānhé Fēijīchǎng %027 8581 8888) is 30km northwest of town, with daily direct flights to:
ABěijīng ¥1440
AChéngdù ¥910
AGuǎngzhōu ¥1230
AHong Kong ¥1480
AShànghǎi ¥1080
AXī'ān ¥920
Use www.elong.net or www.ctrip.com to book flights.
Bus
There are several long-distance bus stations, all of which run very similar services. In Hànkǒu, the main one is beside Hànkǒu train station. In Wǔchāng, the main two are Fùjiāpō long-distance bus station (傅家坡汽车客运站; Fùjiāpō Qìchē Kèyùnzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 358 Wulou Lu; 五楼路358号 ) and Hóngjī long-distance bus station (宏基长途汽车站; Hóngjī Chángtú Qìchēzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 519 Zhongshan Lu; 中山路519号 ).
You can get buses to most major cities, even as far away as Shànghǎi and Běijīng. The following are sample services from Hóngjī long-distance bus station:
AJīngzhōu ¥75, three hours, every 45 minutes (7am to 8pm)
AMùyú (for Shénnóngjià) ¥150, eight hours, one daily (8.50am)
AShíyàn (for Wǔdāng Shān) ¥145, six hours, three daily (8.40am, 11.40am and 1.30pm)
AYíchāng ¥85 to ¥120, four hours, half-
hourly (6.50am to 6pm)
Train
Wǔhàn has three major train stations: Hànkǒu train station (汉口火车站; Hànkǒu huǒchēzhàn), Wǔchāng train station (武昌火车站; Wǔchāng huǒchēzhàn) and Wǔhàn train station (武汉火车站; Wǔhàn huǒchēzhàn), all of which should be linked up to the metro system by the time you read this.
Services from Hànkǒu station:
ABěijīng D train 2nd-/1st-class seat ¥267/333, 10 hours, two daily (8.06am and 9.05am)
ABěijīng Z train hard/soft sleeper ¥263/411, 10 hours, two daily (8.24pm and 9.12pm)
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo D train 2nd-/1st-class seat ¥264/316, six hours, 11 daily (7.05am to 5.23pm)
AWǔdāng Shān Hard seat ¥70, six to seven hours, two daily (10.35am and 4pm)
AXī’ān D train 2nd-/1st-class seat ¥307/432, 7½ hours, one daily (9.15am)
Services from Wǔchāng station:
ABěijīng Z train hard/soft sleeper ¥263/411, 10 hours, two daily (9.03pm and 9.09pm)
AKūnmíng Hard/soft sleeper ¥380/600, 23 to 25 hours, five daily
AYíchāng Hard seat ¥54, five hours, four daily (7.36am, 11.26am, 12.10pm and 5.35pm)
Services from Wǔhàn station:
ABěijīng D train 2nd/1st class ¥267/333, 10 hours, one daily (11.57am)
AChángshā G train 2nd/1st class ¥165/265, 1½ hours, more than 40 daily (7am to 7.55pm)