Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  AGuǎngzhōu G train 2nd/1st class ¥464/739, four hours, more than 40 daily (7am to 7.55pm)

  AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo G train, 2nd/1st class ¥303/428, five hours, two daily (1.35pm and 3.10pm)

  AXī’ān North G train 2nd/1st class ¥458/733, 4½ hours, seven daily

  8Getting Around

  To/From the Airport

  Regular airport shuttle buses reach Hànkǒu train station (¥15, 45 minutes) and Fùjiāpō long-distance bus station (¥30, one hour). A taxi is about ¥100.

  Bus

  ABus 10 (¥1.50) Connects Hànkǒu and Wǔchāng train stations.

  ABus 401 (¥2) From Hànyáng past Guīyuán Temple, Yellow Crane Tower and Chángchūn Temple to East Lake.

  ABus 402 (¥2) From Wǔchāng train station to Chángchūn Temple and Yellow Crane Tower, then via Hànyáng to Yanjiang Dadao in Hànkǒu before returning over the river for the provincial museum and half a circuit of East Lake.

  ABus 411 (¥1.50) Travels a more direct route from the museum to Yellow Crane Tower and Chángchūn Temple before carrying on to Hànkǒu train station.

  Ferry

  Ferries (¥1.50, 6.30am to 8pm) make swift daily crossings of the Yangzi between Zhonghua Lu Dock (中华路码头; Zhōnghuá Lù Mǎtóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and Wǔhàn Guān Dock (武汉关码头; Wǔhàn Guān Mǎtóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

  Metro

  Wǔhàn’s fledgling metro system (地铁; dìtiě) includes Line 1, an overground light-rail line in Hànkǒu, and Lines 2 and 4, which tunnel under the river, linking the main train stations. Four more lines are under construction.

  Jīngzhōu 荆州

  %0716 / Pop 1.5 million

  Easily reached by fast train from Wǔhàn, Jīngzhōu (荆州) is the charming former capital of the Chu kingdom during the Eastern Zhou. Its ancient origins are found within the city wall, one of China's finest. There are a number of period temples still standing plus a tremendous museum which holds a 2000-year-old Han body. The largest collection of Chu kingdom tombs ever discovered lies underground at Xióngjiā Zhǒng, the best known of several ancient burial sites scattered across the fertile neighbouring countryside.

  1Sights

  The walled section of Jīngzhōu is approximately 3.5km from east to west and 2.5km from north to south, with impressive city gates at each cardinal point, as well as several lesser gates. Passing through the wall at New East Gate (新东门; Xīn Dōngmén), which you will do if you’re on the bus from the main stations, you’ll have Jingzhou Nanlu (荆州南路) stretching out in front of you, and you’ll see the older East Gate (老东门; Lǎo Dōngmén) off to your right. Zhangjuzheng Jie (张居正街) leads away from East Gate and runs parallel to Jingzhou Nanlu.

  City WallHISTORIC SITE

  (城墙, Chéngqiáng )

  Jīngzhōu’s original city wall was a tamped mud wall dating from the Eastern Han dynasty, later clad in stone during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms. The oldest surviving sections today, around South Gate (南门; Nánmén), are Song, but most date to the Ming and Qing. The South Gate, with its enceinte (瓮城; wèngchéng) still attached, concocts flavours of medieval Jīngzhōu, swarming with Taoist soothsayers, craftsfolk and vegetable sellers.

  Jīngzhōu MuseumMUSEUM

  (荆州博物馆, Jīngzhōu Bówùguǎn Jingzhou Zhonglu, 荆州中路 audio tour ¥20, English tour guide ¥200; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)F

  Next to Kāiyuán Temple is a small, yet architecturally superb museum surrounded by water. Here you'll find wonderful artefacts unearthed from Chu tombs around the area. The jade and porcelain halls are marvellous, and there is a collection of old silks which appear to float in their cabinets. The highlight is the incredibly well preserved 2000-year-old body of a man found in his tomb with ancient tools, clothing and even food; the airtight mud seal around his crypt helped preserve him.

  Tiěnǚ TempleBUDDHIST SITE

  (铁女寺, Tiěnǚ Sì off Jingbei Lu, 荆北路 )F

  Located in the north of town, off Jingbei Lu, the name of this intriguing temple translates as the Iron Girl Temple.

  Kāiyuán TempleTAOIST SITE

  (开元观, Kāiyuán Guàn Jingzhou Zhonglu, 荆州中路 )F

  Explore the fascinating empty Taoist remains attached to the Jīngzhōu Museum.

  Xuánmiào TempleTAOIST SITE

  (玄妙观, Xuánmiào Guān north of Jingbei Lu, 荆北路的北侧面 )F

  This Taoist temple, just north of New North Gate (新北门; Xīnběimén), literally translates as the ‘Temple of Mystery’.

  4Sleeping

  Sānguó KèzhànHOTEL$

  (三国客栈 %0716 418 2080; 12 Jingtan Lu, 景昙路12号 r ¥90-150; aW)

  This modest hotel within the city walls is fairly new and very well maintained.

  King Kowloon HotelHOTEL$$

  (金九龙大酒店, Jīnjiǔlóng Dàjiǔdiàn %0716 847 8888; 18 Nanhuan Lu, 南环路18号 d ¥250; paW)

  Located just outside the East Gate is a smart business hotel at an impressive price. The rooms are open and bright and the staff speak some English.

  5Eating

  Liánxīn SùcàiguǎnVEGAN$

  (莲心素菜馆 Shiyuan Lu, beside Zhanghua Temple, 渊路章华寺内 ¥30 buffet; h10am-9pm)

  Wholesome vegan food is served, buffet-style, at this friendly Buddhist restaurant next to Zhanghua Temple. Mock-meat dishes are overshadowed by the many bright, green vegetable dishes infused with chilli, garlic and mushroom.

  Grandma's HomeCHINESE$$

  (外婆家, Wàipójiā %0151 3407 7507; www.waipojia.com; Minzhu Lu, 民主路 mains ¥15-30)

  This new restaurant chain has taken off in China, and while we don't necessarily advocate seeking out the easy-to-find, Jīngzhōu's modest dining scene means delicious, freshly prepared hotpots and stir-fries warrant our thumbs creaking up.

  Bàyú RénjiāHUBEI$$

  (巴渝人家 New East Gate, Donghuan Lu, 东环路新东门外 mains ¥20-50; h11am-9pm)

  Great location by the moat, outside New East Gate. Grab a table overlooking the city wall and moat and tuck into the restaurant speciality, gānguō (干锅), an iron pot of spicy delights, kept bubbling hot with a small candle burner. Varieties include chicken (干锅仔鸡; gānguō zǐjī; ¥38), bullfrog (干锅牛蛙; gānguō niúwā; ¥48) and tofu (干锅千叶豆腐; gānguō qiānyè dòufu; ¥32).

  One pot is enough for two or three people with rice (米饭; mǐfàn), which is free. Exit New East Gate, cross the moat and the restaurant is on your right.

  8Information

  There are 24-hour internet cafes (网吧; wǎngbā) dotted around town.

  China Construction BankBANK

  (中国建设银行, Zhōngguó Jiànshè Yínháng )

  Has a foreign-friendly ATM. Located between New East Gate and Jiǔgē Holiday Hotel (九歌假日酒店; Jiǔgē Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn %0716 885 7777; 13 Jingzhou Nanlu; 荆州南路13号 r from ¥380; aiW).

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus

  Buses from Shāshì long-distance bus station:

  AWǔdāng Shān ¥120, five hours, two daily (7.45am and 1pm)

  AWǔhàn ¥80, four hours, frequent (6.30am to 8pm)

  AYíchāng ¥44, two hours, frequent (7am to 6pm)

  Train

  D- and G-class trains (and slower trains) link Jīngzhōu with:

  AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo 2nd/1st class ¥322/385, eight hours, six daily

  AWǔhàn 2nd/1st class ¥70/85, 1½ hours, regular

  AYíchāng East 2nd/1st class ¥26/31, 40 minutes, regular

  8Getting Around

  You’ll probably arrive at either Shāshì long-distance bus station (沙市长途汽车站; Shāshì chángtú qìchēzhàn) or Shāshì central bus station (沙市中心客运站; Shāshì zhōngxīn kèyùnzhàn). Turn right out of either, walk to the first bus stop and take bus 101 (¥2) to East Gate (老东门, Lǎo Dōngmén).

  Bus 49 (¥2) connects the train station (火车站; huǒchē zhàn) with the East Gate.

  The bicycle
rental place (Lao Dongmen; 老东门 per hour/day ¥7/50) by East Gate is one of many around the walled section of the city.

  Around Jīngzhōu

  Xióngjiā ZhǒngARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

  (熊家冢 ¥30; h9.30am-4.30pm)

  Forty kilometres north of Jīngzhōu, the 2300-year-old tombs of Xióngjiā Zhǒng are the source of a large collection of jade – on display at the Jīngzhōu Museum – while there is a fascinating and huge collection of skeletal horses and chariots in a section of the tomb in a hangar-like museum that is open to visitors.

  Buses (¥10, 70 minutes) leave hourly from the back of the bus station called Chǔdū Kèyùn Zhàn (楚都客运站) in Jīngzhōu. Bus 24 links this station with Jīnfèng Guǎngchǎng (金凤广场) bus stop, just outside East Gate (over the moat and turn left). A taxi will be at least ¥100 return.

  Wǔdāng Shān 武当山

  %0719

  There are not many places in the world quite like Wǔdāng Shān (武当山), a Unesco World Heritage Site and wellspring of the gentle art of taichi. Misty clouds cover haunting Taoist courtyards where masters and disciples make bird-like moves in unison and travellers make the three-hour ascent up ancient stone steps in giddy reverence. The 'No 1 Taoist Mountain in the Middle Kingdom' is more than a place of pilgrimage though; its flora contains elixirs for natural health remedies sold on every second precipice and its mountain views rival any in China. Press away from the building and the selling and you'll find unmarked paths to moss-strewn temples and ethereal splendour. Just take your time, breathe, repeat.

  1Sights & Activities

  The town’s main road, Taihe Lu (太和路) – which at various sections is also labelled Taihe Donglu (太和东路; Taihe East) and Taihe Zhonglu (太和中路; Taihe Central) – runs east–west on its way up towards the main gate of the mountain. Everything of interest in town is either on or near this road and road numbers are clearly labelled. Buses often drop you at the junction by the main expressway, a 1km walk east of the town centre. From here, turn left to the mountain entrance (100m) or right into town.

  You can buy Chinese (¥3) or English (¥8) maps at the main gate of the mountain.

  Wǔdāng ShānMOUNTAIN

  (武当山 ¥140, bus ¥100, audio guide ¥30)

  Wǔdāng Shān attracts a diverse array of climbers, from Taoist nuns with knapsacks, porters shouldering paving slabs and sacks of rice, business people with laptops and bright-eyed octogenarians hopping along. It’s a gruelling climb but the scenery is worth every step; plenty of Taoist temples line the route (where you can take contemplative breathers) and you’ll see the occasional Taoist cairn or trees garlanded with scarlet ribbons weighed with small stones. On the way down, note how some pilgrims descend backwards!

  To start your ascent, take bus 1 (¥1) or walk from Taihe Lu to the Main Gate (山门口; Shān Ménkǒu) and ticket office. The bus ticket (compulsory with your admission) gives you unlimited use of shuttle buses (from 6am to 6.30pm).

  One bus – often only leaving when full – runs to the start of the cable car (索道; Suǒdào up/down ¥50/45). For those who don’t mind steps, take the bus to South Cliff (南岩; Nányán), where the trail to 1612m Heavenly Pillar Peak (天柱峰; Tiānzhù Fēng), the highest peak, begins. Consider disembarking early at the beautiful, turquoise-tiled Purple Cloud Temple (紫霄宫; Zǐxiāo Gōng ¥20), from where a small stone path leads up to South Cliff (45 minutes). From South Cliff it’s an energy-sapping, two-hour, 4km climb to the top.

  The enchanting red-walled Cháotiān Temple (朝天宫; Cháotiān Gōng) is about halfway up, housing a statue of the Jade Emperor and standing on an old, moss-hewn stone base with 4m-high tombstones guarding its entrance. From here you have a choice of two ascent routes, via the 1.4km Ming dynasty route (the older, Back Way) or the 1.8km Qing dynasty path (the ‘Hundred Stairs’). The shorter but more gruelling Ming route ascends via the Three Heaven’s Gates, including the stupefying climb to the Second Gate of Heaven (二天门; Èrtiān Mén). You can climb by one route and descend by the other. Temple ruins, fallen trees, shocking inclines and steep steps misshapen by centuries of footslogging await you.

  Near the top, beyond the cable-car exit, is the magnificent Forbidden City (紫金城; Zǐjīn Chéng ¥20) with its 2.5m-thick stone walls hugging the mountainside and balustrades festooned with lovers’ locks. From here you can stagger to magnificent views from the Golden Hall (金殿; Jīn Diàn ¥20), constructed entirely from bronze, dating from 1416 and in dire need of some buffing up. A small statue of Zhenwu – Ming emperor and Wǔdāng Shān’s presiding Taoist deity – peeks out from within.

  Wǔdāng Museum of ChinaMUSEUM

  (武当博物馆, Wǔdāng Bówùguǎn Culture Sq, 文化广场 audio tour ¥20, deposit ¥200; h9-11.30am & 2.30-5pm)F

  This is a great opportunity to get a grip on Wǔdāng Shān history, lore and architecture. There’s a whole pantheon of gods, including the eminent Zhenwu (patriarch of the mountain) and a section on Taoist medicine including the fundamentals of nèidān xué (内丹学; internal alchemy). There are also some stunning bronze pieces.

  The museum is down Bowuguan Lu (博物馆路), which leads to Culture Sq (Wenhua Guangchang).

  CCourses

  oWǔdāng Taoist Kungfu AcademySPORTS

  (武当道教功夫学院, Wǔdāng Dàojiào Gōngfu Xuéyuàn %0719 568 9185; www.wudang.org; Purple Cloud Temple; fees per day classes ¥300, accommodation ¥200-300, meals ¥80)

  Dozens of taichi schools pepper these parts, but this one has the edge for location, its qualities as a school and accessibility to foreigners. The setting is magical; in a large, secluded courtyard surrounded by pine trees halfway up the mountain. Classes follow a strict regime; they're held either at the school or at various scenic spots on the mountain.

  You can sign up for anything from a few days to one year; the longer you study, the cheaper the rates.

  It’s down the steps to your left, just past Purple Cloud Temple; no English sign.

  THE BIRTH OF TAICHI

  Zhang San Feng (张三丰), a semilegendary Wǔdāng Shān monk from the 10th or 13th century (depending on what source you read), is reputed to be the founder of the martial art tàijíquán (literally ‘Supreme Ultimate Boxing’) or taichi. Zhang had grown dissatisfied with the ‘hard’ techniques of Shàolín Boxing and searched for something ‘softer’ and more elusive. Sitting on his porch one day, he became inspired by a battle between a huge bird and a snake. The sinuous snake used flowing movements to evade the bird’s attacks. The bird, exhausted, eventually gave up and flew away. Taichi is closely linked to Taoism, and many priests on Wǔdāng Shān practise some form of the art.

  4Sleeping

  There are a few reasonable hotels in town, but most travellers prefer to stay on the mountain. Despite the price hikes, it's by far the best way to enjoy the experience of Wǔdāng. There are about a dozen hotels and guesthouses by South Cliff. The cheapest rooms go for around ¥90, but you can bargain, especially during low season.

  Yínjiē Holiday InnHOTEL$$

  (银街假日酒店, Yínjiē Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn 1 Jin Jie, 金街1号 r from ¥200; aW)

  Attractive rooms with fresh flowers and new carpets await guests at this great-value hotel by the national-park entrance. The lobby feels like a shady office block but the welcome is honest and there's a spacious breakfast hall.

  Jiànguó HotelHOTEL$$

  (建国饭店, Jiànguó Fàndiàn %0719 590 8888; www.hotelsjiangou.com; Wǔdāngshān Scenic Area, Shíyàn, 武当山风景区 d from ¥500; aW)

  The Jiànguó is a large, spacious, luxury hotel at the foot of Wǔdāng. English-speaking management, top-shelf room service and a bucolic outlook make this the pick of the hotels in town.

  Nányán HotelHOTEL$$

  (南岩大岳宾馆, Nányán Dàyuè Bīnguǎn %0719 568 9182; beside the Nányán car park, 南岩的停车场 r ¥300-400; ai)

  Near the bus stop at South Cliff is this welcoming hotel, popular with large gr
oups. Rooms are clean and comfortable and the breakfast is decent. It's beside the Nányán parking lot.

  Xuán Yuè HotelHOTEL$$

  (玄岳饭店, Xuányuè Fàndiàn %0719 566 3222; 27 Yuxu Lu, 玉虚路27号 r from ¥380; aiW)

  This smart, midrange hotel has comfortable rooms with clean bathrooms. It’s on the corner of Yuxu Lu and Taihe Zhonglu and is accessed through an entranceway to the right of the one with the English sign for the hotel (the one with the English sign leads to the restaurant).

  Shèngjǐngyuàn BīnguǎnHOTEL$$

  (圣景苑宾馆 %0719 566 2118; 7 Taihe Zhonglu, 太和中路7号 r ¥278-318; aiW)

  Simple, bright, pleasant rooms come with firm mattresses and spacious bathrooms. It’s a couple of doors down from the Bank of China.

  Taichi HotelHOTEL$$$

  (太极会馆, Tàijí Huìguǎn %0719 568 9888; r ¥568; aiW)

  This quality hotel on the mountain may not have discounts as good as elsewhere, but rooms with windows go for ¥348, and have fabulous mountain views. Rooms without windows are identical (apart from the views) but are generally not discounted. It’s 200m downhill from the bus stop at South Cliff.

  5Eating

  In town a few shāokǎo (barbecue) stalls set up every evening in an alley off Taihe Lu. Look for the neon-lit archway with the characters 鱼羊鲜, beside No 14.

  On the mountain there are plenty of food options by South Cliff, although not many English menus.