Encyclopedia of Jewish Food
Page 49
2 cups pomegranate juice, or ½ cup pomegranate syrup and 2 cups chicken broth or water
¼ cup fresh lemon juice or tomato sauce
1 to 2 tablespoons sugar or molasses
½ teaspoon ground turmeric or pinch of saffron
About 1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt
Ground black pepper to taste
1. Rinse the chicken well and pat dry. In a large, heavy pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the chicken—do not crowd the pan—and brown on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Remove the chicken.
2. Drain off all but 3 tablespoons fat from the pot. Add the onion and sauté until soft and translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the cinnamon and sauté for 1 minute. Stir in the walnuts and sauté, being careful not to burn the nuts, for about 5 minutes. Stir in the broth, pomegranate juice, lemon juice, sugar, turmeric, salt, and pepper. Return the chicken to the pot.
3. Cover and simmer over a low heat or bake in a preheated 375°F oven until tender, about 1 hour. If the sauce becomes too thick, stir in a little water.
Feta
Cheese was historically produced from March through October, during the animal's grazing season. Sprinkling a soft cheese with coarse salt and letting it stand for a minimum of two months, or soaking it in salt brine as is done with feta, stops the ripening process, allowing for longer storage through the winter without a loss of quality as well as a brinier flavor. The saltiness, firmness, and creaminess of the cheese depend on the maker's style and the types of milk used.
Brined cheese appears to have originated during the early medieval period among the nomadic Vlach of Romania and eventually spread throughout the Balkans. It may have only reached Greece in the seventeenth century. Today, the most well-known brined cheese in America is the Greek feta. It was originally called tyripheta, from the Italian fette (slice), as the ten- to thirty-pound blocks of cheese are cut into wedges before being brined. This crumbly cheese is primarily made from sheep's milk, but occasionally it contains up to 30 percent goat's milk, and poorer-quality types are made from cow's milk. Sheep's milk feta has a slightly nutty flavor and a texture that ranges from creamy to dry. Feta made from goat's milk has a tangier flavor, denser texture, and whiter color than feta drawing on sheep's milk. Most feta in the West is imported and the type of milk and brining should be indicated on the label.
Feta cheese is an integral part of Jewish cookery in the Balkans, Turkey, and the Levant, where it is ubiquitous at most dairy meals. Besides its saltiness, feta has an acidic, earthy flavor. When cooked, the flavors mellow and become more complex. The simplicity of feta's flavor makes it a perfect complement to bread and olives, as well as an important ingredient in salads, vegetable dishes, and pastry fillings. In fillings, feta is frequently combined with a mild cheese, such as farmer or pot, for balance, and mashed potatoes are sometimes added for fluffiness.
(See also Brinza)
Fidello
Fidello is a thin noodle, often shaped into coils.
Origin: Spain
Other names: Arabic: sheriya; Greek: fideiko; Ladino: fideo, fideyo.
By at least the tenth century, the Arabs had introduced pasta as well as the cultivation of durum wheat to Spain. Semolina is necessary for pasta to dry without cracking and to hold together during cooking without the addition of eggs. By the fourteenth century, Sephardim applied the term fila to fresh egg noodles made from common wheat and macaron to all dried durum pasta. Traditional types of Sephardic pasta included alatria (vermicelli, from the Semitic itriya), escolacha (pressed through a strainer), and fidellos, which beginning in the fourteenth century, were the prevailing Sephardic form of pasta. The Ladino term fidello was derived from the Arabic word for noodle, fidawsh/fidaush (meaning "to swell/grow"), as noodles expand in boiling water.
Maimonides, in his medical treatise Regimen of Health (c. 1172), warned against eating noodles and dumplings, although he ate plain chicken soup on a regular basis. The vast majority of Sephardim, however, rejected Maimonides' advice and pasta became an integral element of Sephardic cuisine.
For generations, groups of women would sit and chat while churning out an enormous batch of durum pasta to be dried and stored for an extended period. In some locations, this was done on the fast day of Tisha b'Av, as the preparation was a productive way to pass the time and make use of the warm weather for drying the pasta. For fidellos, each person would roll small pieces of dough between her thumb and forefinger, creating very thin, inch-long, tear-shaped durum noodles. The pasta was sun-dried on large metal sheets, then stored in containers to avoid bug infestation. Today, oven drying typically replaces the sun.
Following the advent of mechanized pasta production, commercial fidellos took on a new shape—coils of very fine noodles—that was slightly different from that of the venerable homemade type. Since few people still make homemade fidellos, the term now generally denotes these coils as well as manufactured vermicelli. The thinnest coils, akin to angel's hair pasta, are generally used in soups, while slightly thicker ones are reserved for sauces and casseroles (which were once cooked in an earthenware pot called a cazuela). Most Sephardic cooks insist on using semolina pasta and not egg noodles for dishes containing fidellos.
The typical Spanish method of preparing pasta was not to dress it with a sauce after cooking, but rather to simmer it in a meat sauce until the liquid was absorbed and the noodles were well coated with the sauce, but not soupy. Spanish pasta is customarily cooked until completely soft; it is not made al dente in the Italian manner. This method allows the pasta to impart starch into the sauce and soak up the sauce's flavor. In addition to being added to sauces, noodles were added to soups (sopa de fidello), a role they continue to play. Many Moroccans stir cooked fidellos into the liquid of their Sabbath stew (unlike the Ashkenazic cholent, it is very liquidy), enjoying this combination as a soup separate from the other ingredients. Fidellos are also served as a side dish for stews, baked with cheese, topped with various sauces, or simply tossed with a little butter, salt, and pepper.
A distinctive Sephardic way to prepare this pasta is fidellos tostados; the noodles are first fried in oil until golden brown, imparting a nutty flavor, and then added to the cooking liquid. In the Iberian manner, the noodles are then simmered in a small amount of sauce or broth until the liquid is absorbed. Browned noodles are sometimes cooked with rice (arroz kon fidellos). On Purim, boiled fidellos tossed with a simple dressing of lemon juice and olive oil is called kaveyos di Haman (Haman's hair).
Although fidellos tostados is a Sephardic dish dating back to well before the expulsion from Spain in 1492, the addition of tomatoes happened afterwards. This eastern Mediterranean variation, technically called fidellos kon domates, became so popular that it is typically referred to as simply fidellos. Many cooks make a basic, mild tomato sauce; others add a little sautéed onion and/or spices (such as a dash of cinnamon) or herbs, although not enough to make it a spicy dish. The noodles are sometimes served loose and soft, but they are also allowed to solidify into a cake and then cut into wedges. An advantage of the tomato version is it tastes as good, or to some even better, when prepared a day ahead and reheated. Although fidellos tostados is a common everyday dish, it also appears at the meal before Yom Kippur accompanying armico (chicken in tomato sauce), and on Sukkot tables.
(See also Pasta)
Sephardic Toasted Noodles (Fidellos Tostados)
5 to 6 servings
[MEAT or PAREVE]
6 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
1 (12-ounce) package fidellos (fine coiled noodles; do not break apart) or 12 ounces angel hair pasta or semolina vermicelli, broken into 2-inch pieces
1 medium onion, chopped (optional)
3 cups chicken broth, vegetable broth, or water
2 cups (12 ounces) peeled, seeded, and chopped tomatoes, or strained stewed tomatoes, or ½ cup tomato sauce
About ¾ teaspoon table salt or 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
Groun
d black pepper to taste
1. In a large, heavy pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the fidellos coils (do not break apart yet) and sauté until light golden, but not burned, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the fidellos. Or, instead of frying the fidello, spread over a baking sheet and toast in a 350°F oven until lightly browned.
2. If using, add the onion and sauté until soft and translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the broth, tomatoes, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil.
3. Return the noodles, cover tightly, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer, stirring occasionally and breaking up the coils, until the pasta is tender, about 10 to 12 minutes.
4. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, until the noodles absorb all the liquid and the flavors meld, about 10 minutes. Stir. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Fig
The fig is the first fruit specifically mentioned in the Bible—its leaves provided Adam and Eve with their original clothing. Among the suggestions for the identity of the tree of knowledge of good and evil in Eden, the fig is mentioned by Jewish commentators more often than any other tree. In the words of the Talmud, "By the thing which they were corrupted were they redressed." The fig is represented prominently in Jewish literature and tradition; only the grape is mentioned more often in the Bible or Talmud. Figs are among the Seven Species with which the land of Israel is praised. The biblical term "under his fig tree" has become a symbol of peace and prosperity.
Fig harvests in Israel signal the beginning and end of summer.
The common fig is native to the eastern Mediterranean. Remains of dried figs from the Neolithic Age were uncovered in Gezer, near present-day Ramla. The average fig tree lives fifty to ninety years, but can survive for more than two centuries. The fig's multibranched, dense summer foliage provides more shade than that of other trees of comparable size. The fig tree's bark is smooth and grayish. Its wood is unexceptional; it is relatively soft and subject to decay and, therefore, of little use in building. The wood was, however, the type preferred in the Temple for fueling the altar and making charcoal for the incense. Rashi explained that just as the fig's leaves were the very first items employed by humans for self-improvement, so should the wood be used by Adam's descendants to achieve self-improvement.
Female fig trees of older varieties generally produce two crops every year. The two fig harvests not only mark the summer season in Israel, but also give the season its Hebrew name, kayitz; summer begins with the arrival of the first figs and ends with the arrival of the second harvest. Breba, the lesser early crop, which is called bakkurot in Hebrew, begins appearing on the trees even before the yearly leaves, around the vernal equinox (March 21), and ripens around Shavuot (June). One of the signs of spring recounted in Song of Songs is "The fig tree has formed her paggim [green figs]." Late figs, which are the main crop and are called te'enim in Hebrew, ripen around the month of Elul (August to September), at about the same time as the date harvest. Each season, weather conditions, such as a cool summer or a prolonged drought, affect the maturation of figs, as well as the amount and size of the fruit. Hence even on the same tree, the harvest differs from year to year. A mature tree yields forty to fifty pounds of fruit annually for about fifty years.
Immature figs are hard, smooth, and flavorless. Figs must be fully ripened on the tree to possess the appropriate sweetness and flavor. Ripeness cannot be judged by color or size. There are several indications of ripeness: when they smell mildly sweet, soften slightly when they are touched, and start to bend at the neck. Some varieties exude a single drop of syrup from the bottom. Very mature figs tend to exhibit cracks in the skin and bruise easily; ironically, perfect-looking fruits tend to lack flavor. Rain during ripening can cause the fruit to split, so an early arrival of the rains in Israel can prove disastrous for the crop.
In biblical times, figs were cultivated throughout the land of Israel and fresh or dried figs were part of the daily diet. A common way of preparing dried figs for storage was to chop them and then press them into a mass; the resulting fruit cake was called develah (pressed together). Fresh figs were also squeezed and the pulp was boiled down to make a thick honey-like syrup, although that role was more commonly filled by dates. Today, Sephardim and Mizrachim use fresh and dried figs in salads, jams, and pastries, but the favorite way to eat them is simply plain. Among Jews in the Maghreb, fig brandy is sometimes used instead of wine for reciting the Kiddush on the Sabbath. This spirit is known in Morocco as mahia (water of life).
Filling/Fullung (Ashkenazic Pastry Fillings)
Since ancient times, filled pastries have served as a way to mark the significance of an occasion or, in more mundane uses, have helped to uplift leftovers or efficiently exploit scarce foods to make a tasty and hardy meal. For much of history, delicate pastry, which requires finely milled flour, was generally the province of the wealthy, or reserved for special occasions. Traditional Ashkenazic fillings typically included the most common and inexpensive ingredients, such as mashed potatoes, kasha, curd cheese, and cabbage, with few or no added spices. Occasionally, fillings were a way to stretch more costly fare, notably meat and liver, and make use of seasonal produce, including cherries, plums, and apples. In America, as income levels rose, these ingredients grew to be more commonplace and filled pastries and pastas became widespread comfort foods; however, they also remain traditional fare for various holidays and other special occasions.
Use the fillings on the following pages for blintzes, Danishes, hamantaschen, knishes, kolache, kreplach, pirogen, and varenikis, as well as other dumplings, turnovers, and pastries. Four cups is enough to fill twenty-four medium knishes, sixty-four 3-inch kreplach, or twelve 6-inch blintzes.
Savory Fillings
Ashkenazic Cabbage Filling (Krautfullung)
about 4 cups
[PAREVE or MEAT]
1 medium-small (1½ pounds/9 cups) cabbage, coarsely shredded
¼ cup vegetable oil or schmaltz
1 large onion, chopped
2 tablespoons granulated or brown sugar or chopped fresh dill
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the cabbage, return to a boil, and parboil for 3 minutes. Drain, squeezing out the excess moisture.
2. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft and translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the cabbage, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 15 minutes. Stir in the sugar, salt, and pepper. Let cool.
Ashkenazic Savory Cheese Filling (Kaesefullung)
about 4 cups
[DAIRY]
2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter
2 medium onions, 4 large leeks, or 12 scallions, chopped
2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced (optional)
2 pounds pot or farmer cheese
2 tablespoons sour cream or ¼ cup cream cheese
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour or matza cake meal
2 large egg yolks or 1 large egg, lightly beaten
About ½ teaspoon salt
About ¼ teaspoon ground white or black pepper
In a large skillet, heat the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until soft and translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. If using, add the garlic and sauté for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat. In a large bowl, combine the cheese, sour cream, flour, egg yolks, salt, and pepper. Stir in the onions.
Ashkenazic Kasha Filling (Kashafullung)
about 3 cups
[PAREVE]
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 cup (5.75 ounces) kasha, medium granulation
3 cups boiling water
About ½ teaspoon table salt or 1 teaspoon kosher salt
Ground black pepper to taste
1 large egg, lightly beaten (optional)
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft and translucent, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in t
he kasha and cook until well coated, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the water, salt, and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. If using, stir in the egg.
Ashkenazic Potato Filling (Kartoffelfullung)
about 4 cups
[PAREVE or MEAT]
3 tablespoons vegetable oil or schmaltz
2 medium yellow onions, chopped
About 3½ cup mashed potatoes
About 1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons kosher salt
Ground black pepper to taste
1 large egg, lightly beaten
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir into the potatoes. Add the salt and pepper. Let cool. Stir in the egg.
Variation
Mit Neshamos (With Souls):
With the egg, add ¼ to 1/3 cup coarsely chopped gribenes (cracklings).
Sweet Fillings
Ashkenazic Sweet Cheese Filling (Zeesih Kaesefullung)
about 2 cups
[DAIRY]
12 ounces (1½ cups) farmer or pot cheese
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
1 large egg yolk or ½ large egg, lightly beaten
2 to 4 tablespoons granulated or confectioners' sugar
¾ teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest (optional)
In a medium bowl, beat together all the ingredients until smooth.
Ashkenazic Poppy Seed Filling (Mohnfullung)
about 2½ cups
[PAREVE or DAIRY]
2 cups (about 10 ounces) poppy seeds
1 cup water or milk
1 cup sugar or honey, or 2/3 cup honey and ¼ cup light corn syrup
About 2 tablespoons fresh lemon or orange juice
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons grated lemon or orange zest (optional)
½ to 1 cup golden raisins or chopped dried apricots (optional)
½ to 1 cup finely chopped almonds or walnuts (optional)
1. In a nut grinder, coffee grinder, food processor, or blender, grind the poppy seeds. Or seal the poppy seeds in a plastic bag and crush using a rolling pin.