Emily Post's Great Get-Togethers
Page 15
An outdoor party can take the brakes off your guest list, giving you room to invite more guests than your house or apartment alone can handle. With a few adjustments, any party can be held in the open air. About the only thing that might rain on your parade is...rain! Outdoor entertaining calls for a foolproof backup plan if Mother Nature chooses not to cooperate.
Most outdoor entertaining tends to be casual in nature, but that doesn’t mean you can’t plan an elegant midsummer’s night dinner party under an apple tree or a dressy cocktail party on the patio. Twinkling lights strung between trees and the starry sky above are all the decoration you need.
Sharing the Wealth
Backyard parties are great opportunities to gather a crowd, with everyone pitching in. Usually, the hosts provide the main event—the steak, burgers, ribs, and vegetables for grilling—and the beverages, while guests bring sides and desserts. It’s up to you to ensure that the menu is balanced. Before you start making phone calls or sending invites, determine which dishes you need to round out your meal. It’s okay to be specific: “Tanya, could you please bring a salad?” Or divide your list alphabetically: A–Ms bring a side and N–Zs bring dessert.
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How Much Should I Make?
When cooking for a potluck, calculate your servings on half the guest list. So, for twenty guests, make ten servings. Why? Because when there’s so much yummy food, guests tend to sample each dish and no one takes a full serving.
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The Table
For a sit-down outdoor dinner party, linens, china, and glassware are great, but for a barbecue or large crowd, paper or reusable alternatives like bamboo, tin, or melamine plates, cups, and utensils is the practical way to go. (You don’t want the “good stuff” getting lost or broken.) Find vintage tablecloths at a thrift shop, or purchase sturdy, easy-to-clean oilcloth (available by the yard in colorful patterns) and pretty cotton or paper napkins—all suitable for outdoor dining. Just be sure that whatever you choose will stand up to what you’re serving. Anything that requires a knife and fork, such as steak or chicken, will need a sturdy plate and heavy-duty knives.
The Alfresco Menu
Outdoor barbecues tend to feature hearty, soul-warming, nonfussy grilled foods such as ribs, chicken, steak, burgers, hot dogs, and fish, with sides like corn on the cob, salads (especially potato or pasta), coleslaw, and baked beans. Foods dressed with olive oil dressings like grilled vegetables and grainy salads like bulgur wheat, wild rice, and couscous all hold up extremely well and can be made in advance. Beer, cider, and wine all complement the informality of a barbecue, as do big pitchers of margaritas, sangria, lemonade, iced tea, and iced coffee. Hors d’oeuvres are of the simple and easy variety: chips and dips or salsas, deviled eggs, and vegetable crudité platters. Don’t forget the condiments—ketchup, mustard, hot sauce, BBQ sauces and mayo; relish and pickles; chutneys, Romesco, and tapenades—but serve each in a dish with a serving utensil, never directly from the jar. Cakes, cookies, cupcakes, brownies, pies, fruit salad, or sweet summer watermelon round out the menu.
Safety First
Outdoor entertaining means that food will be served and sometimes even cooked outside. You’ll need to take extra precautions so that food doesn’t spoil in the heat and isn’t attacked by insects. Set up all food stations in the shade and provide mesh covers for dishes if insects are a problem.
Have lots of coolers on hand. To keep foods cool, especially those with a mayonnaise base, set bowls in larger bowls filled with ice or on wrapped cold packs. It’s better to use smaller platters that you refresh often than to leave a larger one wilting in the heat. If cold is a problem, use Crock-Pots, hot trays, or thermoses.
Cooking Outdoors: The Backyard Barbecue
Easy and fun, the backyard barbecue is a quintessentially all-American way to entertain. (Don’t have a backyard? Check to see if a local beach or park can accommodate you.) You can host it yourself or, as is often the case, arrange a potluck or assign contributions. No matter what you cook—potatoes or a crock of beans baked in the coals, a pig roasted in a pit, s’mores toasted over a bonfire, or chicken sizzling on the grill—a barbecue takes any picnic to the next level.
The critical element to successful outdoor cooking is timing—not just the kind of timing that brings the whole meal together so it can be served, but the kind of timing that saves a beautiful steak from becoming a charcoal briquette. But since cuts of meat vary in thickness and some like it rare and some like it done, how do you know when to take it off the grill? Here are tried-and-true tips for successful grilling from our dad, Peter, and from Chef Peter (of the Jimtown Store in Healdsburg, California).
Grilling 101
Purchase an instant-read thermometer. Test it for accuracy in a measuring cup filled with boiling water (it should read 212ºF). Use it to test meat for doneness (see the chart).
Keep your grill clean. Let any residue burn off and use a steel brush to clean the racks. At the very least, brush the racks after you preheat the grill.
Brush the grill with oil, or before lighting spray the racks with cooking spray like PAM or a spray made for grills.
If you’re not using a barbecue sauce or marinade, season the meat or fish ahead of time with salt and let the salt soak in. Pat the meat or fish dry before putting on the grill, to prevent sticking. Or, try rubbing a little olive oil on the meat or fish.
Start the meat on high heat to sear the outside and create a seal that locks in moisture.
Once it’s been seared, turn the heat to medium or, if using charcoal, move to a cooler section of the grill.
Use the instant-read thermometer, inserting it in the center of the thickest part of the meat. Pay attention to the temperature, and take the meat off the grill when the thermometer reads 5 degrees lower than your desired doneness. Let it “rest” on a platter, covered with foil, for 5 to 10 minutes. It will continue to cook for a bit.
If you didn’t baste with barbecue sauce, sprinkle a little more olive oil on the meat along with freshly ground pepper. Add salt only after you’ve tasted a slice to see if it’s needed. Add a spritz of lemon juice on steak, lamb, pork, or veal as a finishing touch.
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Beef and Lamb: rare: 125 °F medium: 135–140 °F well: 155 °F
Pork: medium: 150 °F well: 160 °F
Chicken: breast: 165 °F thigh: 175 °F
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The Grill
A grill is a wonderful thing—simple food cooked over an open fire in the great outdoors. Grilling is an art to master, whether it’s over a real or a gas fire. Here are several grill varieties and the pros and cons of each:
Charcoal grills. The kettle grill and the hibachi use charcoal and are the most inexpensive. Lighting can be tricky. Get a canister fire starter or make your own out of open-ended, large no. 10 cans. Shred cardboard and paper on a little pile of coals, and light. It’s like starting a campfire, and healthier than using lighter fluid. These grills are the best for achieving a “charcoal flavor” or for adding mesquite or other hardwoods for a smoky flavor. They’re also portable—great for the beach or balcony (check your lease first!). Never use inside.
The Tuscan grill. This is an insert for an indoor or outdoor fireplace. Basically, it’s a frame with a single rack that can be positioned at two to three levels above the coals. Outdoors you can use hardwood or charcoal; indoors you must burn hardwood, since burning charcoal indoors can cause carbon monoxide poisoning. Start cooking when you have glowing coals, not an active flame. This may take up to an hour. Cooking over hardwood gives food an incredible flavor; in fact, some claim it’s the only way to grill!
Gas grill. A stand-alone gas grill is pricey— $200 to $500 depending on the model. Gas grills use propane canisters that are refilled or traded for filled ones—another ongoing expense. They’re extremely convenient to use and are the best for controlled cooking. If you have propane service at your house, a service professional can hook up a line to the grill, elim
inating the canisters. (We recommend you also buy models with a shut-off timer, just in case you forget to turn it off.)
The outdoor cooking center. This is the sine plus ultra of cooking alfresco. It’s basically an outdoor kitchen, a combination grill, rotisserie, stovetop, and oven, and often sink and storage. It’s a hefty investment, but if you live in a warm climate, it could pay off over the long haul.
Outwitting Mother Nature
Not every day is a clear, sunny 76 degrees. Rain is the obvious outdoor party spoiler. If you can’t accommodate your guests in your house or at another nearby location, a tent is the best way to provide weather insurance. Besides rain, you’ll want to factor in heat, cold, wind, and even insects. As the party day approaches, keep an eye on the weather forecast to be prepared if Mother Nature throws you a curveball. Here are some ways to bat a thousand, no matter the weather conditions:
HEAT:
Entertain in afternoon or evening, when it’s cooler
Umbrellas, fans, awnings, tents
Paper fans
Have extra ice, water, and nonalcoholic offerings
Serve salads, cold foods
Sunscreen
COLD:
Space heaters
Warm, spicy food
Candles, warm colors
Tea, hot chocolate, soup
Hand warmers, blankets
WIND:
Secure tablecloths, furniture, and flowers
Replace stemware with tumblers
Don’t use umbrellas, balloons
Set up in the “lee” (nonwindy) side of a house, garage, or fence
Nix any fires or candles
INSECTS:
Citronella, repellent candles, or tiki torches with citronella oil
Have insect repellent sprays or towelettes for guests
Use pop-up mesh food covers
Lighting
Evening parties call for extra outdoor lighting, and twinkle lights aren’t just for the holidays. Festooning trees and shrubs with little white lights gives instant sparkle to nighttime parties. Luminarias and candles in hurricane lamps or canning jars are great for lighting pathways and tabletops. Kerosene lamps provide extra drama when hung from porches or branches. Just be careful of open flames near buildings or on windy evenings. Designate someone to be in charge of lighting and extinguishing and to keep an eye on the flames.
Restroom
Does your location have restroom facilities? This isn’t always the case at public beaches and parks. Check it out ahead of time. At your house, make it clear where the guest bath is located, and leave the lights on to guide the way. Renting a portable toilet is another option, especially if you’re having a large party and your septic system may not be equipped to handle the extra activity.
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A Pretty Privy
The not-so-attractive portable toilet can be gussied up with flowers or a wreath on the door, flowers by the sink, a bunch of lavender or rosemary, scented soap, pretty paper hand towels, a wastebasket, and spray air freshener.
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Neighbors
It’s all a matter of perspective: Your fabulous party with the awesome sound track could be your neighbors’ nightmare. Think about whether parking or noise will be a problem for them. If you can, it’s a great idea to invite your neighbors to a big outdoor party—it does a lot to keep possible complaints to a minimum. However, be respectful of any noise ordinances in your town, and be prepared to tone it down if a neighbor complains. If parking is an issue, consider hiring a licensed high school or college student to valet park cars within a two-block radius. (Make sure he knows that you will pay him and tip him, and that your guests are not expected to do so: “Thanks, Mr. Hemley, I’m already taken care of.”)
Lizzie’s barbecue menu
An outdoor barbecue is Lizzie’s favorite way to entertain. She’s the queen of the grill, and her gatherings are famous not only for her spicy cuisine but also for the perfect playlist. Let the good times roll!
MIXED GRILL
Grilled Italian Sausage with Salsa Verde
(page 161)
Post Family Favorite Marinated and
Grilled Chicken or Shrimp
(page 160)
Bourbon-Marinated Flank Steak
SIDES
Buttermilk Coleslaw
(page 160)
Potatoes Tossed in Romesco Sauce
(page 162)
Fresh Corn, Cherry Tomatoes, Mozzarella,
and Basil with Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Cornbread with Ancho Chile Butter
(page 163)
DESSERT
Strawberry Shortcakes and Whipped Cream
Post Family Favorite Marinade
This works well with chicken, pork, shrimp, or lamb kebabs. Makes enough for 2 pounds of meat or shrimp
Juice of 2 lemons
1 garlic clove, mashed to a pulp
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons grated onion
3 teaspoons salt (or less)
1 teaspoon ground chile peppers (or to taste!)
2 teaspoons curry powder
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon powdered ginger
Combine all ingredients. Store in a glass bottle in the fridge for up to a week.
Buttermilk Coleslaw
Serves 6 to 8 generously, depending on the size of the head of cabbage
Dressing
2 cups buttermilk
1 cup mayonnaise
½ teaspoon celery seed
¼ teaspoon caraway seed
4 teaspoons salt
¼ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
Whisk all ingredients together in a bowl.
Slaw
1 large head green cabbage
½ cup shredded carrot
¼ cup chopped scallions
¼ cup red onion, thinly (julienne) sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
Toss all these ingredients together, then add the dressing and toss thoroughly. Serve chilled within 24 hours.
Salsa Verde
This Italian staple is incredibly versatile—delicious with grilled or roasted meats, vegetables, seafood, or just some good crusty bread. The variations on this sauce are as numerous as its applications, but certain ingredients are a must. The base of salsa verde consists of good olive oil, garlic, capers, anchovies, and loads of fresh herbs. Using this recipe as a base, have fun and experiment with the sauce to suit the dish it is accompanying. This sauce should always be served the day it is made and never refrigerated, to ensure bright clean flavor and color. Makes approximately 1½ cups, enough to serve 6 to 8
1½ cups roughly chopped fresh parsley
½ cup roughly chopped fresh oregano
½ cup roughly chopped fresh mint
3 scallions, finely chopped
2 teaspoons finely chopped rosemary
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons rinsed, dried, and roughly chopped capers
3 anchovy fillets, chopped into a paste
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Combine all the ingredients except the olive oil in a food processor. Repeatedly pulse the motor while drizzling in the olive oil in a steady stream. Alternately, place everything but the oil in a large bowl (you may want to chop the herbs a little finer if using this method). While whisking, drizzle in the olive oil. Taste and add a pinch of salt or a splash of vinegar if you think it needs it.
Romesco Sauce
A nubbly, ruddy emulsion, thickened with bread crumbs and almonds, not egg yolks, Romesco sauce is bold yet suave. Serve it with sausages and grilled vegetables, spread it on sandwiches, or use it as a dip for crudités. A smaller batch is a little tricky to make, but Romesco freezes well. Small, quick-
thaw quantities are good to have on hand. Makes about 4 cups
1 cup fine fresh bread crumbs
1 cup whole unblanched almonds, about 4½ ounces
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
3 cups seeded chopped red-ripe plum tomatoes (from about 1 pound whole)
1 (7¼-ounce) jar roasted red peppers, drained (about 1 cup), see Note
6 tablespoons red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon best-quality sweet Spanish or Hungarian paprika
½ teaspoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.
In a shallow metal pan, toast the bread crumbs, stirring them once or twice, until they are golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool.
In a food processor, combine the crumbs, almonds, crushed red pepper, and garlic. Process until the almonds are fairly evenly chopped. Add the tomatoes, peppers, vinegar, paprika, lemon juice, sugar, salt, and pepper and process briefly. With the motor running, gradually add the olive oil through the feed tube, stopping once or twice to scrape down the work bowl. Transfer to a storage container and refrigerate for at least 24 hours to allow the flavors to develop.
The Romesco can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 2 months. Return it to room temperature and adjust the seasoning before using.
Note: Freshly roasted red pepper can certainly be substituted. One meaty, medium-large pepper should yield about 1 cup chopped flesh.
Ancho Chile Butter
A delicious addition to cornbread! Or, serve with warm tortillas.