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Gertrude Bell

Page 58

by Georgina Howell

While we were walking the overgrown site of the Bells’ demolished Rounton Grange, by chance we met Gertrude’s great-nephew Bob Richmond and his father, Miles. Their help, then and subsequently, has been considerable. Susanna Richmond, daughter of Gertrude’s half-sister Elsa, lived for a time with Gertrude’s parents, Hugh and Florence. She has given us many reflections and critical questions to consider. She still lectures about her aunt, and remembers a magical moment of empathy with her on her last trip to England. We have gained great pleasure from our visits to Patricia Jennings, Gertrude’s niece, who remembers her with awe. At her home on the Trevelyan estate in County Durham, she showed us the family albums and the cedar of Lebanon that Gertrude brought home as a seed and planted on the lawn.

  Sir John and Lady Venetia Bell, farming together the Yorkshire land acquired by Gertrude’s grandfather, were extremely kind in showing us pictures and memorabilia. We are specially grateful to Venetia for introductions and guidance, photographs, and permissions. Dr. William Plowden kindly provided us with a wealth of anecdote and a valuable unpublished biography of Dame Florence Bell. We also appreciate the connections given to us by Nick Vester.

  We would particularly like to thank the following: Jane Mulvagh and Anthony Bourne for wonderful hospitality and introductions; Anne-Françoise Normand for the historical identity of Iraq; Martin Brown, Secretary of Rounton Parish Council, for photography, and Terry Huck for showing us the Rounton festival displays. Malcolm Hamlyn of Edmund Carr has earned our gratitude for his professional advice throughout this project. When we stayed in Gertrude’s childhood home, Red Barns, now a hotel, the proprietor Martin Cooper allowed us to crawl about in the cellars and attics where Gertrude played. While we were exploring the site of the Bell foundries at Clarence in Middlesbrough, Graham Bennet of the Bridge Museum showed us original footage of Sir Hugh and Lady Bell at the opening of the Transporter Bridge.

  We are grateful to Mrs. Jane Hogan at Durham University Library for helping us with collections including the all-important letters from Gertrude to Valentine Chirol. Gillian Robinson at the Imperial War Museum helped us find the last letter from Lieutenant-Colonel Doughty-Wylie about his wife.

  Mrs. Abu Husainy at the National Archives, Judy Hunton at Redcar Public Library, Brenda Mitchell of Tyne Tees Television, Diana Wright of the Literary and Philosophical Society in Newcastle, David Spooner in the Cabinet Office, Julie Carrington at the Royal Geographical Society, and Helen Pugh of the Red Cross all earned our considerable thanks for their help. Jessica Stewart of Berkeley, California, did us a great service by sharing her transcripts of many of Gertrude’s barely legible handwritten texts in the Bell Miscellaneous archive in the Robinson Library. Researcher Anita Burdett, a Middle East specialist, searched records in the National Archives, the Women’s Library, the Red Cross archives, and the Imperial War Museum.

  For their help and suggestions we thank Editorial Manager Georgina Difford and Kate Harvey of Macmillan; Zoe Pagnamenta of PfD, our agent in New York; and Claire Gill and Emily Sklar of PfD in London.

  Amongst many lifelong friends in the world of books who have encouraged us with ideas and criticism we thank particularly Virginia Ironside, Jonathan Mantle, Jean Moore, and Nicky Hessenberg. Fiona McCarthy elucidated a reference of Gertrude’s to Byron’s goose. Reflections on Gertrude’s character have provided a continuing source of discussion with Betty Woodall. Peter and Anthea Pemberton have heartened us with their continuing interest, as well as their occasional criticism for not writing the book on the back of a camel.

  INDEX

  Note: ill. following an entry indicates that there is an illustration of the subject in the plate section.

  GLB stands for Gertrude Lowthian Bell; WWI for World War I.

  A

  Abadan, Iran, 244

  Abdiyah Hanem (mother of King Faisal), 335

  Abdul Hamid, Sultan of Turkey, 335, 337

  Abdul Mahsin Bey, Iraq Prime Minister, 404

  Abdul Rahman, Sayyid (the Naqib), 209, 361–62, 366, 375–76, 379, 388, 392, 393

  Abdullah (camel driver), 176–77

  Abdullah ibn Hussain, Amir: in Constantinople, 336

  visits Storrs, 243

  childhood, 335, 336

  and Arab Revolt, 337, 339–40, 343, 359

  suggested King of Iraq, 359

  King of Transjordan, 365, 368, 398–99

  GLB meets, 398–99

  Abu Ghar, Iraq, 202, 215

  Abu Namrud (guide), 178

  Adana, Turkey, 119

  Addis Ababa, Abyssinia, 132, 145, 146, 208, 222

  Admiralty, British: Intelligence Division, 160–61, 236–37, 238

  Agail tribesmen, 107

  Akhwan sect, see Wahabi sect

  Al Arab, 299

  al-Muqtadir, Caliph, 210

  Albania, 143, 144, 162

  Aleppo, Syria, 110, 119, 313, 314, 358

  Ali (camel driver), 173, 174, 184, 193, 200–201

  Ali ibn Hussain, Emir: in Arab Revolt, 335, 337–40

  subsequently, 397

  Ali Sulaiman, Sheikh, Chief of the Dulaim, 377, 378

  Allenby, Gen. Edmund, 1st Viscount of Megiddo, 344, 346–47, 349, 355, 357

  Alpine Journal, 86, 92

  Alps: French, 66–67, 74–79

  Swiss, 79–85, 86–92

  Amery, Sir Leonard (“Leo”), 387, 415

  Amida (journal), 125

  Amman, Jordan, 178, 398

  Anatolia, Turkey, 118, 125, 127

  Anazeh tribe, 200, 212, 283, 300, 377

  Anglo-Persian Oil Company, 244, 333

  animals, 187–88, 297–98, 315

  dogs, 403, 406, 414

  gazelle, 212, 298

  greyhounds, 298, 315

  horses, 97, 298

  see also camels

  Anti-Suffrage League, 72

  Aphrodisias, Turkey, 128

  Aqaba, Jordan, 122, 344

  Arab Bulletin, 267, 270

  Arab Bureau, Cairo Intelligence Department, 240–42, 244, 246–53, 254, 270, 271, 308, 341;

  “Intrusives”, 250, 254, 308

  Arab Independence Movement, 247, 254

  Arab nationalism, 316, 318–25, 337–38, 345, 357

  Arab Revolt, 242–43, 246, 247–52, 254, 338–46

  attitude of Indian government, 250–51

  Arabia (“Middle East”) 94–96

  in Sykes-Picot Agreement, 345

  in San Remo Pact, 345

  see also desert, travelling in and place names

  Arabia (ship), 160

  Arabic language, 97, 103, 106, 109, 292

  archaeology, 73, 103, 111, 112–14, 123, 124–25, 127–29

  GLB at Carchemish, 125

  Director of Antiquities in Iraq, 410–11, 416

  Areh village, Jordan, 104

  Armenians, 122, 322–23

  Ashur, Mesopotamia, 126

  Asir, Saudi Arabia, 336

  Asquith, Herbert H., 1st Earl of Oxford, British Prime Minister, 71

  Auda abu Tayyi, Sheikh, 344

  Awali, massacre, 339

  Awwad, 188

  B

  Babylon, Iraq, 110, 124, 131, 210, 403

  Baghdad: history, 210

  GLB visits, 1909, 110

  under Turkish rule, 279, 289–90

  GLB in, 1914, 207–11

  British occupy, 1917, 272, 276, 288–89, 291–92, 309

  Indian army surrounds, 280

  GLB moves, 272, 274–75

  GLB working in, 276–78, 280–85, 288–95, 298–301, 302–303

  1919, 289

  GLB returns to work in, 316–18, 320–21, 323–34

  in 1920, 323–25

  Hugh Bell visits, 1920, 315–16

  GLB working in, 360–64, 369–76, 379–82, 383–85, 388–96, 397–98, 399, 401–406

  Faisal in, 1921, 373–74, 375–76, 380

  with Faisal as King, 381, 383–84, 388, 389–99, 401, 402–404, 406

  GLB in, 1926, 409–13,


  GLB’s house in, 275–76, 404, 412–13, ill.

  GLB’s office, 284, 383–84

  cemetery, 416

  convent, 296

  Faisal’s palace, 388, 392

  Iraq Museum in, xviii, 410, 411, 415–16

  Jews in, 313–14

  Public Library, 379

  GLB’s work for women in, 72, 316

  Bajlan, Mustafa Pasha, Chief of Khanikin, 309, 310

  Balad, Iraq, 289

  Balfour, Arthur James, 1st Earl, British Foreign Secretary, 353, 355, 356

  Balfour, Col. Frank, 290–91, 367

  Balfour Declaration, 353–54, 356, 369

  Bani Tamim tribe, 303

  Baqubah, Iraq, 323

  Barre des Écrins mountain, France, 78–79

  Basra, Iraq, 277, 278

  Sayyid Taliib in, 247

  GLB working in, 256–57, 258–61, 262–72, 274, 339, 342, 387

  under Turkish rule, 290

  1917, 289, 300

  Faisal arrives, 1921, 373, 374

  Bayreuth, Bavaria, 76

  Bedouin, 95, 98, 99, 115, 167, 174, 182–84, 251, 280–81

  Beg, Muhammad, 178

  Beirut, 114, 314

  Belgrave Terrace, Number 10, London, 54

  Belka plain, Jordan, 146

  Bell, Ada (aunt of GLB), 5, 9–11, 12, 14, 99

  Bell, Charles (uncle of GLB), 5, 13–14

  Bell, Elsa (later Lady Richmond;

  half-sister of GLB), 6, 13, 48, 128, 157, 271

  childhood, 19, 25, 46

  Baghdad, 405

  Bell, Florence (née Olliffe; stepmother of GLB): early life, 11–12, 23, 24

  career, 10, 24

  meets Hugh Bell, 11

  marries Hugh, 12–13

  GLB’s childhood, 13–27, 28, 29–32, 41

  in GLB’s youth, 33, 41, 42, 45–48, 54, 55–56

  clothes, 15

  social work, 33–36, 70

  and Henry James, 49

  and GLB as adult, 136, 139, 235–56, 295, 297, 312–13

  in WWI, 220

  DBE., 297

  in 1925, 407, 408

  after death of GLB, 418

  correspondence with GLB, 21, 28, 30, 38, 43–44, 47, 55, 56, 96, 99, 106–107, 118, 129, 130, 160, 170, 180, 224, 229–30, 232–33, 235, 236, 241, 246–47, 269–70, 271, 272, 275–76, 286, 295, 297, 299, 304, 312, 318, 325, 329–31, 334, 369, 379, 386–87, 392, 395, 403, 404, 405, 408–409

  writes of GLB, 16, 17, 41, 45, 59, 139, 418

  ill.

  WORKS: Alan’s Wife (play), 24

  Angela (play), 17

  At the Works, 33–35, 70

  Bluebeard (opera), 12

  essays, 23

  The Letters of Gertrude Bell, 17, 414, 430

  Bell, Gertrude: birth, 8

  childhood, 6, 9, 11, 13–14, 15–27, 187–88

  school, 28–32

  university years, 32–40

  in Bucharest, 42–45

  as debutante, 45, 46–48

  in Persia, 50–57

  in London, 1892–3, 56–57

  mountaineering, 1897, 74–76

  world tour with Maurice, 60

  mountaineering, 1899, 74, 76–79

  in Jerusalem with Rosens, 67, 96–98

  travels in desert, 1900, 99–109

  mountaineering, 1901–2, 80–92

  world tour with Hugo, 62–64, 67

  at durbar in Delhi, 61–62

  mountaineering, 1903–4, 91–92

  desert travel, 1905, 109–10, 114–21

  archaeological work, 111–14, 124–25, 127–29, 411

  in England, 1907–8, 131–43

  desert travel, 1909, 110, 112, 120, 124

  desert travel, 1911, 110, 125–26

  in England, 1912–13, 163–65

  desert travels, 1913–14, 110–11, 164–69, 170–93

  in Hayyil, 194–205

  return to Baghdad, 206–11

  journey to Damascus, 211–16

  in England, 1914, 147, 217–22

  Wounded and Missing Enquiry Department, Boulogne, 147–49, 221–35

  London, 1915, 234–37

  in Cairo with British Intelligence Department, 160–61, 239–53

  visits Doughty-Wylie’s grave?, 157–58, 160–61, 247

  on ship to India, 254

  in India with Viceroy, 255–57

  in Basra with Chief Political Officer, 258–72, 342, 387

  in Baghdad, 1919, 274–301

  in England and France, 1919, 303–304, 312–13

  travels, 314–15

  at Paris Peace Conference, 305–308, 311–12, 347–53, 354, 355–56

  in Baghdad, 1919–20, 314–34, 359–64, 361, ill.

  at Cairo conference, 1, 366–69

  Baghdad, 1921, 369–76

  at Ramadi tribal gathering, 376–79

  Baghdad, 1921–23, 379–82, 383–85, 388–98

  Faisal’s stories of, 385–86

  with father, meets Abdullah, 398–99

  Baghdad, 1923–25, 399–406

  in England, 1925, 406–408

  Baghdad, 1926, 409–13

  Director of Antiquities in Iraq, 410–11, 416

  death, 413–15

  funeral, 416–17

  PERSONAL: appearance, 42–43

  character and abilities, 26, 30, 31, 39–41, 49, 73, 74, 121–22, 136, 139–40, 143, 257–58, 413, 414–15, 417

  portraits, 69, 406

  honours and awards, 69, 285, 297

  tributes to, 414–17

  ill.

  RELATIONSHIPS: with men, 139–40

  Cadogan, 52–56, 57, 164

  Chirol, 44

  Cornwallis, 401–403

  Doughty-Wylie, 129–38, 162–64, 167, 171, 246, 296

  Faisal, 389–90, 395, 401–402

  father, 16, 41, 106–107, 163–64, 170, 247, 304, 316, 408

  with stepmother Florence, 22, 26–67, 41, 246–47, 297, 408–409

  WORKS: Amurath to Amurath, 124

  The Arab of Mesopotamia, 270–71

  The Churches and Monasteries of the Tur Abdin, 125

  The Desert and the Sown, 120, 130, 182–83, 184

  diaries, 62, 120–121, 123, 175, 177, 178, 179–80, 181, 207

  The Divan of Hafiz, 57–58, 59

  letters, see under names of recipients

  The Palace and Mosque at Ukhaidir, 124, 169, 176

  Persian Pictures, 56

  poetry, 58, 59, 64

  Review of the Civil Administration of Mesopotamia, 293, 310, 329, 371, 445n

  “Self-Determination in Mesopotamia,”307–308

  The Thousand and One Churches, 125, 127, 131

  Bell, Sir Hugh (father of GLB), 5, 7, 32–33, 54, 99, 136, 139, 163, 229, 286, 296

  career, 7–8, 9, 20, 33–34, 121–22

  speeches, 8

  first marriage, 9, 16

  second marriage, 10–11, 12–13, 23, 163

  in GLB’s childhood, 13, 14, 16, 19, 21, 26

  in her youth, 30–31, 32, 54, 55, 59, 61

  mountaineering with GLB, 75

  in France with GLB, 1919, 303–304, 348

  visits Iraq, 315–16, 318

  in Paris with GLB, 1922, 369

  in Jerusalem, 398

  in 1925, 407–408

  1926, 414, 418

  correspondence with GLB, 32, 78, 101, 170–71, 229–30, 253, 256, 257, 258, 264, 269–70, 271, 272, 275–76, 286, 296, 298, 299, 303, 328, 334, 364, 379, 380, 386–87, 395, 404, 405, 409, 413

  ill.

  Bell, Hugo (half-brother of GLB), 19, 61, 63–64, 67–68, 255, 315

  death, 409

  Bell, Sir [Isaac] Lowthian (grandfather of GLB), 9, 54, 61, 111

  career, 4, 5

  made baronet, 32–33

  character, 5–6, 121

  death, 64

  ill.

  Bell, Mary (“Maisie”) (later Stanley; aunt of GLB), 5, 10, 11, 12, 113

  Bell, Mary
(née Shield; mother of GLB), 9, 16, 163

  ill.

  Bell, Maurice (brother of GLB), 271

  childhood, 9, 13, 14, 16, 17, 20, 21

  education, 26, 46

  travels with GLB, 60

  in Boer War, 90, 99

  in WWI, 228, 230, 234

  after WWI, 296, 418

  Bell, Mary (“Molly”) (later Lady Trevelyan

  half-sister of GLB), 19, 22, 26, 46, 48, 81, 139, 271, 295, 403

  quoted, 25, 235

  Bell Brothers Ironworks, 4, 7–8, 9, 33, 61

  Beni Hassan tribe, 116

  Beni Sakhr tribe, 100, 115–16, 175

  Berlin, 75

  Bethlehem, Palestine, 97

  Binbirkilisse, Turkey: archaeology, 110, 119, 125, 127

  ill.

  Blount, Miss (in Arabia), 107

  Blunt, Lady Anne, 123, 168, 240

  Blunt, Wilfrid, 123, 168

  Bodley, Ronald, 373n

  Body, Dr Thomas, 406

  Boer War, 90, 99, 129

  Bonham-Carter, Sir Edgar, Judicial Secretary, Iraq, 291–92, 293, 294

  Booth, Charles, 33

  Bosra, Jordan, 102

  Boulogne, France: Casino, 226

  Faisal in, 357

  Office of Red Cross Wounded and Missing Enquiry Department, 147–48, 220–221, 222–35, 371

  Bowman, Humphrey, 294–95, 317

  Boyle, Capt. William H. D., 341

  Brémond, Col. Edouard, 341

  British Empire, 8–9, 61, 254, 272, 286

  British Museum, 61, 129, 407, 410

  Brooking, Gen. H. T., 262

  Browne, Edward G., 57

  Bucharest, Romania, 42–45

  Burgon, John, 38

  Burgoyne, Elizabeth, 406

  Burmah Oil, 244

  Burnett, Dr. James, 25

  Burqu, Jordan, 175

  Bush, Capt. Eric Wheeler, 159–60

  Bute, island, Scotland, 9

  Byron, George Gordon, 6th Baronet, 105

  Byzantine empire, 114, 124, 127, 128, 210

  C

  Cabinet, Iraq, 361, 362, 363, 388, 392

  Cadogan, Henry, 52–56, 57, 131, 136, 138–39, 164

  Cairo, Egypt, 168

  GLB arrives in, 160

  Hotels, 240

  British Intelligence Bureau, 160–61, 218, 236–37, 238, 239–44, 246–53, 254, 263

  see also Arab Bureau

  Cairo Conference, 1921, 3, 365–69, 370, 400

  camels, 106, 187–88, 213

  Carchemish, Syria, 110, 125, 169, 241, 258

  Carlyon, L. A., 157–58

  Carol, King of Romania, 43

  Carruthers, Douglas (cartographer), 169

  Cecil, Robert, 1st Viscount of Chelwood, 225, 229, 230, 234, 235, 304, 330, 355

  Chalabi, Musa, 275, 297

 

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