How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend

by Monks of New Skete

  The installation of a dog door, giving the dog access to both the inside and outside, often resolves these problems. If a door cannot be installed, try to screen the dog from disturbing stimuli, whether they be other dogs, traffic, or passersby. Ideally, a good dog should be able to stay in the house without exploding at every different sight or sound. If not, it's the owner's responsibility to seek out training to help the dog cope.

  Clients often look amazed when we suggest a dog door. Won't that encourage burglars? they ask. Possibly, but a window or regular door can encourage thieves, too. A small opening obviously meant for a dog does not entice most burglars. Naturally, they are wary of households with dogs that can bark, bite, or otherwise call attention to their presence, and the dog door advertises that you have one. With a dog door, the dog can defend both inside and outside areas. The expense of a dog door is minimal compared to its benefits. Some models can be installed even on rented properties, since the cutout section of door or wall can be reinserted. This can even be done in a sliding patio door opening.

  There is nothing wrong with chaining a dog for a short period of time for elimination, but leaving a dog on a chain all day is bound to produce undesirable results. A chain is a last resort. The ideal suburban setup, which can be used if the owner is home or away, is a small enclosed pen, preferably connected to the interior of the house by a dog door. The floor of the pen should be grass or gravel. Converting a concrete patio into a dog yard is all right, but concrete can give the dog trouble with his pads, so check them often if your dog stays on concrete for any length of time. Be creative in constructing your pen (see chapter 27 on canine incarceration).

  Some suburban dog owners experience trouble with many of the dogs in their immediate area. A highly successful approach is to start a local obedience class together using this book and other references. (For those interested, Winifred Strickland's Obedience Class Instruction for Dogs is specifically geared to this issue.) In this way, area dogs come to recognize and respect all local adults as alpha figures, and the trouble that ganged-up or individual suburban dogs can get themselves into decreases. If you cannot secure the cooperation of other dog owners in such a project, you can at least talk to them about the value of keeping their dogs supervised. The old saying "Love me, love my dog" applies here — you will have to be tactful in discussing dog problems with neighbors.

  In suburbs where there are not enough fences and far too many dogs, fighting becomes a frequent event. Since many dogs are jammed together in a small area, each dog's territorial boundaries are frustrated. The only sensible approach is for all dog owners to obedience-train their dogs, restrict defecation to the area surrounding the house, and limit free roving.

  A suburban setting can provide a wonderful life for a dog. But the owner must keep in mind that many other dogs rub shoulders with his dog. The suburbs are not the country, and at any rate, the country is not the answer to all canine problems, as we shall see in the next chapter.

  17

  Country Life

  There is no doubt about it: dogs do like life in the country. Each year thousands of dogs go on vacation with their owners. They travel to the seashore, to the woods, to the mountains. Many clients who live the greater part of the year in the city have told us about the amazing transformation that comes over their pets once they settle into the summer retreat. The fresh air, open space, and freedom from normal restrictions can do wonders for a dog. Dogs who live in the country all year enjoy an environment that closely resembles the milieu of their wolf ancestors.

  But canine country life can have its problems, too. Many have to do with the fact that although life in the country is freer than life in the city or suburbs, the dog still must be responsibly restricted. The "myth of the country dog" states that a dog in the country is free to come and go as she pleases, need not spend any length of time indoors, and actually prefers to live outdoors. This may be true of certain rare dogs but is usually the owner's conception of canine liberty, not the dog's. Life in the country unfortunately allows owners to project their image of canine happiness on their dogs more easily. Often it is simply a rationalization of their own irresponsibility. Given that our monastery is located in a rural setting, we have seen many instances in which local dogs are simply allowed to run free. Often we hear reports of how this or that one was hit by a car or suffered some other sort of serious accident. We believe that in some respects country dogs are at greater risk because many owners seem to assume that they should be able to take care of themselves. Such an attitude puts your dog in danger.

  Regardless of where you live, it is essential for you to spend time with your dog: not only to foster responsible management of your dog but to provide your dog with what he really wants — companionship. That should be priority number one for all dogs. We have heard many troubled urban or suburban problem-dog owners say, "What Fido needs is a family in the country that would take him — then he could just run all day." Trust us, things are not so simple. Even in the country Fido can't "run free all day" without getting into some kind of trouble and without having his need for companionship met.

  William, a five-year-old Labrador retriever, and Duffy, his one-year-old son, belonged to a family that lived in the Vermont hills. The owner called us after both dogs had participated in killing a pig at a local farm, about three miles from their home. William was an old hand at this sort of thing and had been responsible for several other witnessed kills, including those of several geese. Duffy was relatively new to his father's occupation but had a history of free roving and chasing cars. Both dogs were left out in the morning and called home about five P.M. for dinner. Attempts to recall them began to falter, however, as the two dogs managed to find "dinner" elsewhere. They began to arrive home later and later, until they eventually stayed out all night. Like the proverbial drunk, they would arrive home staggering and exhausted. Both dogs would immediately go to the tree where they were usually chained for punishment. They would be chained for the day and night, at which point the owner would release them, and the whole ritual would be repeated. Asked why the dogs were allowed to run free, the owner explained, "Well, we live in the country, and I didn't think there was much trouble for them to get into."

  Once William and Duffy were granted entrance to the house, their behavior changed remarkably. William refrained from leading Duffy into troublesome activities, and both dogs spent much of the day napping. Exercise, however, had to be regulated on leash, since the dogs had memorized a definite route during their adventures away from home and occasionally felt the urge to visit their old stomping grounds. After a few weeks of obedience training, the dogs could be allowed out into the yard and came back into the house when called.

  Sarah, an eleven-month-old female Norwegian elkhound, lived in a rural area. Part of her owner's land abutted a sanitary landfill, a garbage dump. Sarah discovered the landfill when she was four months old, which is the age many puppies become more independent and begin seeking adventure away from home, if permitted to do so. Sarah loved the landfill and was observed by many motorists chomping away at leftovers and licking out empty tin cans. Even though her owners knew where she was, it didn't seem to bother them since, as they put it, "We want her to feel free!" Sarah's "freedom" soon led her into a bout with sarcoptic mange and a serious problem with fleas and ticks. Even after veterinary treatment, she was allowed to frequent the dump. About her eighth month, she began menacing other dogs that visited "her" dump and began growling at motorists who left their cars to empty trash. Threatening calls from the manager of the landfill convinced the owners to control the dog, but whenever she was left unsupervised, Sarah made for the dump.

  Both of the above situations involve an owner's misunderstanding of the role of the dog in the country. The old misconception that country dogs are somehow entitled to run free is played out again and again, with disastrous consequences. William and Duffy were easily rehabilitated by a program of obedience training and in-house living. Sa
rah's owners needed to learn discipline techniques to correct her aggression.

  In both cases, it took time for the scent of daily markings from the dogs' urination to die down. Dogs define their territory by spreading pheromones, chemical substances secreted by many animals, not just dogs, and used as calling cards when communicating with members of the same species. They are passed in urine, in feces, and possibly by breath. The frequent leg lifting of males is an attempt to mark out territory, which is later defended from invasion by other dogs and possibly humans. Though more common to males, pheromone-connected aggression can take place in females also. William and Duffy had successfully staked out land within a three-mile radius as their own. They considered the livestock in that area "theirs." Sarah no doubt perceived the landfill as an extension of her own backyard, and as she matured, she began to defend the dump as her territory.

  Dogs who live in the country must limit their urination and defecation to the area immediately around the home, as they usually do in the suburbs. In the city, stools are regularly swept away, destroying the defining characteristics of pheromones. This probably eliminates a considerable amount of aggression among city dogs, who, nevertheless, are often on leash and under the control of their owners. But in the country a dog can mark off a large area of land and feel compelled to visit his territory each day to defend it from real or imaginary invaders. Add the possibility that an individual dog may have low discriminatory powers and high excitability, and you have all the elements for harmful aggression.

  Unless the owner is able to structure the dog's life so that he leaves his canine calling cards only in his own yard, there is little chance of curing running away, aggression, or predation. In recent years one highly successful device for keeping dogs confined to property is the "invisible fence." This is an antenna wire that is buried in the ground around the perimeter of your property (or the area you desire to block off). A hidden transmitter carries a radio signal through the wire. Dogs wear a computer collar that picks up the signal coming from the wire and sets off a sound that indicates to your dog when he gets too close to the boundaries. Most companies that install invisible fences provide a training program that teaches your dog to understand the boundaries and stay inside the invisible fence. For most dogs the program is remarkably successful and humane. We find this device particularly helpful in rural areas, but less so in suburban settings that have a dense population of dogs, since it does not keep outside dogs off the property. Without question, it is the most successful and humane way of dealing with roaming behavior.

  However, invisible fences can be pricey. If such a device is not a possibility for you, in addition to your restricting the dog's urine and feces to your yard, it is also necessary to discover exactly where your dog is traveling. Dogs who frequently run away usually have some place to go. Find out where. Inevitably the attraction is food, an opportunity to fight or play (or both) with other dogs, or the opportunity to breed. Occasionally some misled human will congregate dogs by passing out food. A simple phone call can stop the handing out of tidbits, but other attractions are harder to remove. Since it is usually not possible to remove them completely, a program of strict in-house living must be inaugurated, with defecation and urination on leash until the dog reorients himself to the home environment. Even so, that probably won't be enough. For starters, dogs that roam are often not in a subordinate relationship with their owners. To really begin to deal with the problem, this more general issue needs to be addressed. Training enhances bonding, which can help keep the dog on the property. Lastly, consider neutering your dog. Studies have shown that the most pronounced effect of neutering a male dog is to limit roaming, which is often a response to scenting a female in season.

  If your dog is involved in predatory behavior, feasting on ducks, chickens, pigs, or even "big game" like deer or bear, your approach must be the same, with some further exploration. Predatory behavior is not always easy to prove, especially if the dog is working off his own territory. The dog may be involved in a pack, with two or three animals doing the killing and everyone taking part in the feast. Just because your dog has been sighted at the scene of a predatory incident does not mean he actually killed any other animal, but you should immediately contain the dog in his home area anyway. In most states a farmer has the right to kill any dog found molesting farm animals.

  Predation that takes place in the home barnyard is more complicated. Owners who want loose dogs and free-roaming chickens to coexist are asking a lot. Chickens provoke chase and capture by dogs, with their flapping wings and cackling. Often a dog who would show no interest in a silent animal will enjoy a good chicken chase if the bird runs away and puts on a good show.

  We have learned several lessons in our experience with predation cases. First, the old saying that it is harder to cure a dog of predation once the dog has "tasted blood" seems to be true. Rehabilitating these dogs often involves extensive work on a long line, in double-blind situations, in which the dog does not know he is being observed. This calls for the skillful timing and quick response of a capable trainer. If you have a chronic predator on your hands, a dog you can't seem to convince to eat dog food and nothing else, see a competent trainer as soon as possible. If, however, your dog has developed this habit recently, controlled setups and discipline that allows you to correct in the process of the chase are highly effective. Obedience training to the come, sit, and stay level is imperative to help strengthen the owner's leadership position, which is often weak.

  Some trainers have used emetics effectively, lacing the "kill" with ipecac or other substances that cause vomiting, but we have not seen much success with this method. The use of electric collars to deal with predatory behavior, though promising, should be approached with caution. In recent years, electronic technology in dog training has become increasingly sophisticated, but it should not be looked upon as an automatic be-all, end-all solution to behavioral problems. It requires specific knowledge and skill to use such devices optimally. Seek the help of a trained professional who is familiar with such training and who can assist with your specific problem.

  That said, most predators perceive of themselves as the leader of the pack, a basic misperception that must be cleared up quickly. The dog-owner relationship needs to be effectively reordered, with the human as leader, and the dog's freedom restricted to his immediate territory. In cases of home predation in which you catch your dog in the act, physical discipline under the chin or with the shakedown method can have a strong impact on your dog when followed up with set-up situations in which the dog is challenged to overcome the temptation. For example, a dog who loves to chase after cats or squirrels can be set up with the help of a fifty-foot rope. Have your dog in your yard with you at a time you anticipate such distractions. Be sure to wear gloves and keep your eye on your dog. Let him trail the rope around the yard. The second he spots the animal and begins to chase after it, grab the rope and run in the opposite direction. The correction will be meaningful and will begin the process of teaching him to ignore the distraction. Still, the best policy is to always think preventatively. Monitor the whereabouts of your dog at all times. Running away and predatory behavior are avoidable if the country dog owner simply keeps the dog nearby, or in a fenced-in area on the property.

  An often successful and highly practical solution to the problems of country dogs is to put the dog to work. A great many breeds can be taught to herd sheep or cattle. There are books that describe how to home-train your dog for farmwork. Hunting dogs and pointers can learn hunting skills. If you don't have a farm, there are still small tasks your dog can do. Sled dogs can be harnessed and taught to pull children around for rides. Draft dogs like rottweilers can be harnessed to wagons and transport loads. Bringing in the paper, baby-sitting, and protecting the home are canine chores most dogs are eager to perform.

  The city dog must learn to heel with precision and to mingle with strangers peacefully; the suburban dog needs to know obedience commands and ta
ke his place as a member of the family; the country dog, too, has his special role. The fact that he lives in the country does not mean he is on a perpetual vacation, free from the restrictions and duties other dogs face. Like any dog, he needs affection, training, a sense that he belongs and is wanted. In short, the dog needs to be and feel included, not excluded, whether he lives on Park Avenue or in Podunk.

  18

  Outdoor Life

  Much of the advice in this book suggests that the dog with behavioral problems be moved immediately into the house. We further suggest that owners wishing to enhance their relationship with their pets, even in the absence of behavioral issues, include the dogs as much as possible in their regular social lives. The sections on canine sleeping habits, digging, chewing, aggression, and other problems make it clear that we feel dogs belong in the owner's "den" (house or apartment) as an integral part of a "pack" (family group) under the supervision of a pack leader or "alpha figure" (the dog's owner[s]). Our own lifestyle with our dogs illustrates this belief.

  What about the dog who lives outside? The first question we ask is, why? When we ask clients who are experiencing behavioral problems this question, their answers can often be dogmatic and curt:

  "Because I want him outside, that's why."

  "He likes it outside."

  "That's where a dog belongs."

  "He house-soils inside."

  "He chews [or digs, jumps up, doesn't obey] if he's inside."

  "I don't want hair all over the house."

  "He bothers company, and we have a lot of company."