How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend

by Monks of New Skete

  Be this as it may, massage is not simply a New Age technique meant to appeal to those looking for a new gimmick. Setting aside for a moment the beneficial effects of massage in terms of relaxation, there are other crucial reasons for conditioning your dog to accept your gentle touch. For example, getting your dog accustomed early to having her whole body touched and handled makes it safe and easy for veterinarians and groomers to work with her. This can head off the need for muzzles and anesthesia during office visits and creates a much more positive attitude in your dog when visiting these professionals. Related to this is the probability of your dog's becoming injured at some point in her life. Dogs who are in pain can often bite reflexively when they are manipulated, and this possibility is lessened considerably if they are used to being handled (massaged) and calmed. By calming the dog, you can more easily examine the wound and determine the best course to follow.

  Regularly massaging your dog also keeps you in touch with his overall state of health. It allows you, without having to wrestle with him, to check for tumors, soreness, swelling, and fleas at the same time you are deepening the bond with your dog. This is an important aspect of responsible ownership that people often don't consider.

  Finally, pet massage can be a beneficial relaxation technique for both you and your dog. Dogs experience stress just as humans do, and the sensation of a gentle hand helps relieve this tension as well as a variety of aches and pains. It also sends a powerful message of care and concern to your dog. At the same time, you will discover that this massage helps you relax, too. By relaxing and breathing deeply as you massage your dog, you'll find your own stresses and tensions starting to dissipate.

  The first principle of dog massage is to stop thinking of your dog solely from the shoulders up. Contact can be made with almost any part of the dog's body if it is done with sensitivity. Skilled veterinarians know this from treating unapproachable patients. They often have to devise creative ways of lifting the animal up onto an examination table, or treating injuries all over a pet's body.

  To begin dog massage, make a list of all the areas where the dog likes body contact. If you are the dog's owner, you know. If you are not, ask the owner. Then list the areas where the dog dislikes being touched. Begin your first massage with the areas on your first list, but

  With your dog in a relaxed down-stay, slowly begin massaging his neck and side.

  include one area on the second. Gradually include more "forbidden" areas in subsequent massages. A good place to massage your dog is on the floor. A carpeted area is best. The immediate inclination of many dogs is to play. If the dog wants to play, let her play. Don't make massage a businesslike experience. Use your voice and hands to calm her down. You might begin with the dog in the sitting position. It's best to begin on the head, gently massaging the eyelids, muzzle, and nose. Always keep one hand in contact with the dog during the entire massage.

  From the head area, work down the neck, to the chest and pectoral muscle. Some dogs automatically offer a paw. Take hold of it, but gently place it down if the dog seems to be losing balance. Remember, there is no absolute right way to give a massage — as long as the dog is enjoying it.

  Choose a leg and work up and down on it very gently. If your dog decides to lie down, you have better access to his rear legs. Try to avoid forcing the dog down. If your dog knows the command for down, you can use it in massage work, but don't force the issue. Make your

  Gently work each of the legs and the back and chest. Avoid slapping, pinching, or pulling.

  Working on the neck muscles and the head and face can be enjoyable for both of you.

  strokes long and firm or short and circular. Try to distinguish massage from regular petting. The massage should be more extended and pliable in its movement than regular petting. Avoid all slapping, pinching, and pulling motions. These will break the mood of the massage.

  Many dogs communicate quite clearly what they like and dislike. For the owner who has never had such extended contact with his or her pet, it may take a while to feel comfortable. Try not to be embarrassed and timid by focusing on your breathing and a calming touch simultaneously. If you are nervous during the massage, your dog can sense it and tighten up.

  You may find that some dogs are initially too restless to stay for any extended massage. This is fine. Simply start with a very brief massage and then praise her warmly, telling the dog how good she's been. You can build on this foundation by gradually extending the length of a massage. Also, another way of helping settle down an active dog may be to exercise him vigorously beforehand.

  There are many benefits to dog massage. Linda Tellington-Jones, a well-known animal consultant and trainer, has developed an entire training method based on touch, which can be applied to a number of different species, including dogs. Building an entire method on touch and massage may seem to be taking things a bit far, yet her work makes for interesting reading, and the general thrust of her argument bears serious consideration. Massage is also a veterinary technique used to hasten rehabilitation following fractures and luxations and to restore muscle tone. It can give you a new appreciation of canine anatomy. For the busy dog owner, it is a way of disciplining oneself to make contact with the pet. It is a welcome break for dogs in obedience training. For show dogs, massage is an excellent calming procedure before entering the ring, where a delicate balance between relaxation and animation must be maintained if the dogs are to look their best. Acupuncture and chiropractic are also used therapeutically on dogs, just as they are on humans.

  A technique for calming down a stressed dog is to place your open palm over the dog's groin area and hold it there. On females, this is just below the stomach; on males, just in front of the genital area. The groin area is a traditional greeting place between fellow canines. Dogs often tell each other "it's all right" by nudging this area. When you gently place your hand there, it has the same effect on the dog as an arm around the shoulder or a handshake can have for worried humans. Try this technique if your dog becomes agitated while at the veterinarian, when you need to groom him or cut his toenails, or anytime the dog is under stress.

  We often suggest massage in the case of an overworked or overstressed owner, or in neglectful dog-owner relationship. Children are often great at dog massage, once they understand what it is about. It is a good substitute for unhealthy kinds of contact between kids and dogs, such as ear pulling, chasing, and tail yanking. If you have a child, monitor several sessions with your child so that both dog and child get used to it. The dog owner who finds it difficult to reach his pet, especially on the verbal level, can often calm the animal down with massage enough so that she can learn and retain commands. We have had success with hyperkinetic dogs by including a five- or ten-minute massage session before commencing regular obedience work.

  25

  The Round-Robin Recall

  Dogs with recall problems can be helped with a simple game the whole family, a group of friends, or a class can play. You need a twenty-foot rope or lead with a light weight attached to one end. Your dog should wear a training collar and should already be trained to the come, sit, and stay level before attempting round-robin work.

  Begin by forming a small circle of four or five people (family members first). The object of the exercise is to call the dog, have the dog sit in front of you, praise him, and toss the rope to the next person in the circle. This person then calls the dog and repeats the process. The tossed rope is to ensure a prompt recall by the dog. If he does not come after being called twice, give the lead a quick pop and call the dog, praising him warmly as he trots toward you. As the dog comes to each person in the circle, that person should have the dog sit and then give lavish praise again. A treat can be given in conjunction with the praise as soon as the dog sits.

  All participants should make this a lively, fun session. It should not be a formal, precise lesson, but an experience in animation and praise. Keep the dog happy by giving encouragement. As soon as the dog is called and eve
n looks at the caller, that person should start giving the dog encouragement. But if the dog does not come, or begins to go the other way, bring the dog in with a quick pop on the lead, calling him at the same time.

  Be sure to have a session like this twice a week if you are having problems with the come exercise. Gradually extend the circle physically and psychologically. Broaden the circle so that the full length of the lead is between each participant. At first the circle should be made up of the dog's immediate family-pack members, but including strangers after a few weeks of practice can often improve the behavior of aggressive dogs.

  How You Can Use This Exercise

  Dogs are often so attached to one member of the family that they ignore or refuse to obey others. Regular round-robin sessions help focus them on other family members, particularly if those members also take on responsibilities, such as feeding and walking the dog (if only for a limited amount of time). This helps promote a proper leadership role in each family member. In such situations, it might be best to exclude the dog's favorite from the round-robin circle at first. Have that person stay out of sight, thus forcing the dog to relate with other persons who are less desired.

  Don't take it personally if the dog doesn't come to you immediately, or if she comes slowly and reluctantly. That is why you have the lead and use your voice. Be animated and encourage the dog, and give the lead a quick tug if necessary. Praise the dog when the recall is complete. Don't let a session go longer than ten or twenty minutes, and end it on a playful note. We've seen remarkable improvement in recall and aggression problems after using the round-robin technique several times a week.

  Clients also report other positive changes after a few sessions. Dogs for whom round-robin sessions have been prescribed begin to relate in new ways to family members they had formerly ignored. After a few initial sessions, many dogs begin to whirl around the circle very quickly, barely stopping for praise from each handler, eager to get to the next. As one client reported after three round-robins with a former fear-biter, "Jake zips around the circle like crazy. He loves it and it's given him a new lease on life. Our family really enjoys it, and we have a waiting list of area kids who want a turn in the circle."

  26

  Keeping Fit for Life

  To provide a city dog with more vigorous exercise in a congested environment, urban dog owners might consider roadworking their dogs as an alternative to daily strolls. In fact, it can be useful in any environment. Daily exercise is a requirement for all dogs, and owners need to look for creative ways of providing it. Swimming is one possibility; however, roadworking is another. Roadworking is definitely not a matter of hooking up a dog with a rope or chain to a car bumper and then speeding off down the road. A dog should never be tethered to a motor vehicle, even when parked. However, there are a number of safe ways owners can provide much-needed exercise for their dogs that make use of a bike or vehicle. Assuming that your dog has a proper foundation in obedience training, that you take proper precautions and go slow, and that you work in a quiet, level area, roadwork can be quite beneficial.

  Dogs needing better weight control and ligament tightening can benefit from roadwork. Certain very active breeds such as Australian shepherds and border collies need a lot more exercise than simply a walk or a short Frisbee session, and they respond well to roadwork. In fact, most dogs could use a lot more exercise than owners provide them. You should start walking your dog with a fifteen-foot lead, preferably on dirt, sand, or grass. Do not allow rowdiness in the walking phase. Then you can phase in jogging, with your dog trotting ahead.

  Next try a bicycle, if you wish, with your dog running alongside. Actually, we prefer this form of roadwork because it is safe while at the same time healthy for both dog and owner. Also, it does not require

  Well-made devices for bicycles can keep the dog safely in position for exercise.

  more than one person, the way roadwork with a car does. There are flexible devices that you can attach to your bike and your dog's collar. Practice first in an empty parking lot or playground, making right and left turns, allowing your dog to get accustomed to moving with the bike. It's a good idea to give a specific command with the turn, such as "left turn," so that the dog gets used to the protocol. Make sure that you let the dog determine the speed. Never forge out ahead of your dog, and never, ever drag the dog.

  Another possibility mentioned by contemporary trainer Cis Frankel in her book Urban Dog*is Rollerblading with a dog. Obviously, this requires a real proficiency on your part as well as reliable automatic stops and sits at street corners from your dog, but for an adept owner whose dog is well trained, it can be a lot of fun and a great workout for your dog. As with any sort of roadwork, always be careful not to overdo things.

  Finally, if your walking, jogging, and bicycling are smooth, you can begin to work your dog off a car, but it is vital to follow safety precautions. When roadworking, always use wide, flat nylon collars,

  Regular roadwork for exercise can be done safely and enjoyably. Keep the lead loose and the dog away from the car.

  as they prevent any sort of unintended constriction of breathing. Choose secluded roads with good shoulders. Never try to handle roadwork in a vehicle alone — this can be dangerous since it is possible for the dog to get too close to the car. Get a partner to drive while you control the leash. If necessary, you can even string the leash through a lengthy plastic tube to keep the dog sufficiently away from the car. Make sure the driver does not go too fast (don't go more than five mph). The dog should be moving at a very comfortable trot. Never work a dog more than two miles, no matter what shape he is in. City dog owners can roadwork their pets in local parks or drive out of town to unpopulated areas. Elderly people who are not physically spry but who like large-breed dogs can exercise their animals with a roadwork program. Make sure the leash is well out from under the car, and never allow the dog enough leeway to go under a tire.

  Make roadwork a highly ritualized and enjoyable event. While roadworking, it is essential to shout encouragement to your dog constantly. It might mean going every day to an area where you can yell and scream without disturbing anyone else. We prefer the early-morning hours when the pavement is cool, the sun just peeping up, and the air crisp and fresh. It is an excellent way for a dog to start the day. Avoid working in the hot sun. Because of their hair, dogs do not cool themselves very effectively. When they exercise too vigorously in hot weather, they become susceptible to overheating and heatstroke. If you are able to work close to home, first drive to your starting point with your dog loaded in the car, then begin the roadwork, aiming your dog for those highly desirable goals: home, food, water. This will greatly improve the dog's attitude and drive.

  Benefits of Roadwork

  Some people think that roadwork is only for show dogs with spongy constitutions who need a crash program of heavy exercise in order to meet a show deadline. We mentioned the benefits of roadwork especially for the urban pet. But roadwork has many benefits for all dogs. Bitches who have recently whelped a litter profit from this form of exercise, which restores their muscle tone after the strenuous nursing period. Serious obedience fanciers will find that roadwork greatly improves trainer-dog relationships and is a welcome break from more precise training routines. Pet owners with hyperactive or seemingly "uncontrollable" canines have much to gain from it, too. The whole roadwork ritual removes both dog and owner from home stresses (telephone, chores, children) and builds good rapport. It vents energy and frustration for the high-energy dog and the high-energy owner. We recommend it as therapy for pet owners with dog-management problems.

  As an alternative to roadworking, swimming in a stream or at the beach is both great exercise and a time for play. Remember to rinse off salt water.

  27

  Avoid Canine Incarceration!

  If your dog spends any length of time in a yard, you might be interested in ideas that can help you make his stay there a pleasure, not an imprisonment. It is amazing how many do
g owners have described their dog's play area as a gravel enclosure with nothing, absolutely nothing, inside, except the dog. Boredom and ennui are one of the worst aspects of modern dog life. Chewing, digging, nuisance barking, poor appetite, and stool eating are usually in some way connected with boredom. These problems often occur in dogs who have become "kennelized" by such uncreative play areas.

  Before the professional dog people get up in arms, let us note that we are not against the use of kennels or enclosed areas. They are necessary. But they can be built with imagination. It doesn't matter whether you have one dog or many, a yard can be well thought out. First, the shape. For dogs who are alone, rectangular pens encourage dogs to walk and strut about; square kennels encourage them to lie down and do nothing. Unfortunately, the rectangular dog run may also encourage fence charging in some dogs and endless barking, which is linked to the tension of fence running. If your dog is prone to fence running, change the yard pen to a square design, and the running may stop. For large working breeds, we usually suggest square pens of at least twelve feet by twelve feet, although a smaller square can be used if the dog is not placed in one for too long.

  It is important to note that in discussing play-area kennels, we are referring to a pen in which the dog spends a sizable amount of time, not simply defecation runs. Enclosures constructed solely for defecation can be quite small. More than eight feet in any direction is rarely

  Teaching a pup how to use the playground helps cut down boredom and instills confidence.

  Gently leading the dog or pup on new surfaces helps teach her to trust your lead.