Home Maintenance For Dummies, 2nd Edition

by Carey, James

  2. Unscrew the cold-water supply line at the top of the water heater and remove the nipple screwed into the cold-water port.

  3. Pour a citric-acid-based cleaner into the open hole and wait about eight hours for the acid to dissolve the minerals at the bottom of the tank.

  The citric-acid-based cleaning product we recommend is called Mag-Erad, but it can sometimes be hard to find at local plumbing supply stores. If you have trouble finding it, call the Mag-Erad manufacturer, Tri-Brothers Chemical Corporation at 847-564-2320, or contact A. O. Smith Distributors at 800-845-1108 or 800-527-1953.

  4. After the cleaning agent has had time to work, flush the tank.

  Connect a garden hose to the drain valve located at the bottom of the water heater and run the hose out into the garden. Open the drain valve, reconnect the cold-water supply line and then turn on the cold-water supply to the water heater. The cloudy water and sediment that comes out of the end of the hose will amaze you.

  5. When the water runs clear, close the drain valve, and remove the hose.

  6. Bleed air from the system by turning on the hot-water faucet farthest from the water heater; when water runs from this faucet, turn it off and repeat this process at other faucets throughout the house.

  7. Turn the power to the water heater back on.

  Hopefully, you’ll be in hot water now.

  Avoiding rust

  Most water-heater tanks are made of glass-lined steel. If water gets through imperfections in the glass, then you can count on rust and eventually a leak. But because the tank has no inspection ports, it’s hard to tell when it’s dirty or beginning to rust. Actually, tank rust usually isn’t discovered until after a leak occurs — and then it’s too late. You’re not totally without recourse, though.

  A special rod called a cathodic anode (or sacrificial anode) is built in to the water-heater tank assembly to prevent rust. As long as the rod is in good condition, deterioration of the tank is drastically reduced.

  Unfortunately, you can’t determine the condition of the anode by just looking at your water heater. You have to turn off the power and the water to the water heater and remove the anode with a wrench. Check the anode for deterioration at least twice a year; this will give you an idea of how long the anode will last. You can then include its replacement in your maintenance schedule accordingly.

  To prevent damage to the tank, simply replace the cathodic anode, a $15 item that takes about 30 minutes to install. Cathodic anodes are often not readily available in hardware stores — you’ll probably have to buy one from a plumbing-supply company. Because anodes come in all shapes and sizes, be prepared to give them the make and model of your water heater so that you get the right one. You can find this information on a label located on the water-heater housing.

  To replace the cathodic anode, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the power to the water heater and the cold-water inlet valve at the top of the water heater.

  2. Unscrew the hex bolt holding the cathodic anode in place and remove the rod — or what remains of it.

  You may discover that only a short piece of rusted metal rod remains — definitely a sign that a new anode is desperately needed.

  The cathodic anode is about 3 to 5 feet long, about 3/4 inch in diameter, and has a hex bolt welded onto one end. The hex bolt screws into the top of the tank, holding the rod in place inside the tank, and, when tightened down, the nut also makes a watertight seal at the same time.

  3. Install the new anode.

  Insert the new anode in the reverse order that the previous one was removed. Be sure to use Teflon tape on the threaded fitting to prevent a leak.

  4. Turn the water and power to the water heater back on.

  Most factory-installed anodes are magnesium, which can produce a sulfite-reducing bacteria that makes your water smell like rotten eggs. Using a replacement anode made of zinc or aluminum will prevent this problem. Peeeww!

  When things get too hot

  Water temperature is another important factor in controlling energy costs and extending a water heater’s life span. Water-heater manufacturers recommend a lower water temperature setting whenever possible — 130 degrees or less. On a gas water heater, you can adjust the temperature by turning the dial located on the front of the controller. On an electric model, the thermostat is located behind an access panel adjacent to a heating element.

  Don’t set the temperature below 120 degrees. A temperature setting less than that could allow potentially fatal bacteria to propagate within the tank.

  Testing the temperature and pressure relief valve

  The temperature and pressure relief valve (TPR valve) opens to release pressure buildup in the water heater when the temperature or the pressure get dangerously high, preventing a possible explosion.

  A buildup of mineral salt, rust, and corrosion can cause a TPR valve to freeze up and become nonoperational. To test the valve to ensure that it’s working properly, simply raise and lower the test lever several times so it lifts the brass stem that it’s fastened to (see Figure 7-4). Hot water should rush out of the end of the drainpipe. If no water flows through the pipe or you get just a trickle, replace the valve.

  Some water-heater experts recommend testing every six months. More frequent testing can reduce the chance of a leak caused by mineral and corrosion buildup. However, if a leak results immediately after a test, simply operate the test lever several times to free lodged debris that may be preventing the valve from seating properly. If the valve is doing its job and hot water is dripping or spewing out of the TPR drain valve, turn down the temperature on the water-heater controller and/or turn down the water pressure (see “Adjusting too-high water pressure,” earlier in this chapter), if necessary.

  Figure 7-4: Testing the temperature and pressure valve.

  Here are other things to pay attention to:

  The pipe leaving the relief valve should be the same diameter as the exhaust port of the valve — usually 3/4 inch. Moreover, the pipe should be made of a material that is not adversely affected by heat, such as copper. If the pipe is undersized or not heat-resistant, replace it with copper or have a plumber do it for you.

  The TPR drainpipe should travel in a slightly downhill direction from the valve to the point where it terminates. It should end outside the house at 6 to 24 inches above the ground. If the drainpipe moves uphill and then downhill, water could get trapped against the outlet of the valve and corrode it shut. If the drain line had a trap or a low spot, water could freeze. And even if the valve works, pressure would be captured and an explosion might occur. If the drainpipe isn’t properly configured, call in a plumber to correct it.

  Dealing with a sudden blast of cold water

  When the hot water in your shower suddenly turns ice cold, you have the right to be frustrated and confused. (That is, if the hot-water supply hasn’t been drained due to recent use.) If you receive this rude wake-up call, the culprit may be that your dip tube or the water-heater nipples need a little TLC.

  Caring for a broken dip tube

  The dip tube consists of a plastic pipe that travels vertically within the water-heater tank from the cold-water inlet to within a few inches of the bottom of the tank. The dip tube brings cold water in the bottom of the tank where it can be heated. If the dip tube is cracked or broken, the cold water mixes with the hot water at the top of the tank (heat and hot water rise), resulting in your unwelcome early-morning shock. When this condition arises, a cracked or broken dip tube is usually to blame.

  Changing a dip tube is easy:

  1. Turn off the power to the water heater.

  2. Turn the cold-water inlet valve off and use a wrench to disconnect the cold-water supply line at the top of the water heater.

  3. Remove the nipple (a short piece of pipe threaded at both ends) to expose the top of the dip tube.

  4. Remove the dip tube by inserting a screwdriver at an angle and using friction to pry the tube out of the opening.

&n
bsp; 5. Drop a new tube into the opening and replace the nipple and supply line.

  6. Turn on the water and restore power to the unit.

  Nipples: A sensitive subject

  Nipples are short pieces of pipe that are threaded on both ends. They come in various lengths and diameters and are made of a host of materials. Most water heaters have two nipples that are used to connect the cold-water supply line and hot-water outlet line at the top of the water heater. These nipples are subject to corrosion and a buildup of solids at the interior that can bring your supply of hot water to little more than a disappointing drip.

  You can solve this problem by installing PVC-lined nipples, galvanized iron nipples lined with plastic or PVC that prevents mineral buildup on the inside. The galvanized finish helps prevent rust on the outside. Use Teflon tape on the threads for a leak-free seal. Also, make sure to use dielectric unions to connect all dissimilar metal water pipes to prevent electrolysis — a deterioration that occurs when unlike metals come into contact with one another.

  The cold-water shut-off valve

  If you discover rust at the top of your water heater — aside from the nipples — it may be due to a leaking pipe fitting or a leak at the cold-water shut-off valve. If all the fittings are in good shape, and the valve is the culprit, try to stop the leak by using a wrench to tighten the packing nut.

  The controller: The brains of the operation

  The controller is the device you use to light the pilot and turn the unit off and on. It’s also used to adjust the temperature setting. The controller is usually pretty reliable and doesn’t require much maintenance other than an occasional dusting. However, if you have too little hot water, water that is not hot enough, or water that is excessively hot, it may be time to replace the controller. This is a job best left to a pro.

  Securing your water heater to a wall

  A water heater thrown over during an earthquake or other disaster can cause both broken gas lines and broken water lines. You can prevent such a scenario if you strap the water heater securely to an adjacent wall.

  Metal straps around the belly of the heater can be screwed to the housing and then anchored to wall framing. You can also install a special anchor that attaches to the water pipes at the top and to wall framing. In either case, your best bet is to check with your local building department for recommendations and a diagram on how best to anchor your water heater.

  If you have a gas water heater

  The burner, thermocouple, and venting system are components that are fundamental to the safe and efficient operation of a gas water heater. Keeping them clean and in good working order will keep you safe and help manage utility costs.

  The burner: Just an old flame

  On a gas water heater, the burner assembly is located at the bottom of the unit below the tank (refer to Figure 7-4). When the water temperature in the tank drops below the desired temperature, a thermostat activates the burner. The same process occurs with an electric water heater, but instead of a burner, electric heating elements are activated.

  Periodically inspect the burner to make sure that it’s burning safely and efficiently. A dirty burner chamber can cause a fire and can make the burner less efficient. (If your burner is operating at peak efficiency, you’ll see a blue flame. If the flame is orange, adjust the shutter until it turns blue.)

  To clean the burner, first turn off the gas shut-off valve (located on the gas supply to the water heater), remove the access panel, and vacuum the burner and chamber. Use a stiff wire and a wire brush to clear clogged burner ports and removes rust. If you aren’t successful in getting a blue flame, call in a service rep from your utility company or a plumber or heating specialist.

  The thermocouple

  If you have a gas water heater with a pilot light that won’t stay lit, it’s probably due to one of two things:

  There is a blockage in the tiny tube that supplies gas to the pilot. If the tube is blocked, you can clear it by inserting a thin piece of wire or blowing air through it.

  Make sure that the gas controller is in the off position before attempting this repair.

  The thermocouple has failed. The thermocouple is a thermoelectric device that shuts off the gas if the pilot light goes out. In simple terms, it’s a short piece of tubing that runs from the gas controller to the pilot. The pilot end of the thermocouple and the pilot are held side by side in a bracket that’s anchored to the burner. If your pilot light won’t stay lit, the thermocouple probably needs to be replaced. A new one costs about $5 to $10 and is easy to install.

  If the thermocouple has failed, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the gas supply.

  2. Remove the whole burner and thermocouple assembly.

  Unfasten the three nuts that hold the thermocouple and the two gas tubes to the valve. The burner typically sits loosely — or under clips — in the burning chamber and just slides out.

  3. Detach the thermocouple from the burner.

  The thermocouple is usually attached to the pilot gas supply tube with one or more clips that snap into place. The end of the thermocouple is inserted into the pilot assembly and can simply be pulled out.

  4. Take the detached thermocouple with you to the home center or hardware store and buy a new one.

  5. Install the new one the same way that you removed the old one.

  Attach the end of the new thermocouple into the pilot assembly and reattach the thermocouple to the pilot gas supply using the clips previously removed, reinstall the burner and, using a small open-end or adjustable wrench, reconnect the thermocouple lead, the gas tube to the main burner, and the pilot gas tube to the valve.

  6. Turn the gas back on and follow the lighting instructions on the water heater.

  7. Check for gas leaks by applying soapy water to joints and looking for bubbles while the main burner is firing.

  The venting system

  The venting system of a gas water heater consists of a flue that runs up the center of the water heater from the burners, out the top of the water heater, and through the rooftop to vent deadly gases created by combustion. At least twice each year, inspect the venting system to ensure that it’s properly aligned at the top of the water heater and that the connections are secure.

  Here’s a quick test you can use to see if your gas water heater is venting properly: With the water heater running, hold a match near the draft diverter (the opening at the top of the water heater where the vent pipe connects to the unit). If the flame on the match leans in toward the vent pipe, your draft is good.

  If the flame leans back toward the room, or worse yet, if it blows out the flame, your unit may be back-drafting, a potentially dangerous situation. If this happens, immediately turn off the unit and call the gas company for assistance. Chances are, your vent pipe or chimney is blocked somewhere, and your house may be filling with deadly combustion gases.

  If you have an electric water heater

  Electric water heaters have no burners to clean, no thermocouples to replace, and no venting systems to be concerned with. However, an electric water heater is not without its own set of maintenance tasks.

  Cleaning your water heater’s electric elements

  An electric water heater contains one or two heating elements similar to what you might find in your oven, except that they’re short and narrow. These electric elements can become laden with lime and mineral deposits that reduce their effectiveness or cause them to overheat and short out.

  To clean your electric elements, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the power to the water heater.

  2. Drain the tank by turning off the cold-water valve at the top of the water heater, attaching a garden hose to the drain valve at the base of the water heater, and opening the drain valve.

  To facilitate draining, open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the home.

  3. After the water heater empties, use a screwdriver to remove the access panels to the elements.

  Depending up
on the number of elements, one or more access panels will have to be removed. You may need to move a piece of insulation to expose the element.