Home Maintenance For Dummies, 2nd Edition

by Carey, James

  4. Using your screwdriver, remove the elements and any electrical wires that power them.

  Elements are generally attached with a series of bolts, or they have a threaded base that screws directly into the tank.

  5. Clean or replace the element.

  To clean the removed element, use a solution of vinegar and water or sodium carbonate and water (2 tablespoons of vinegar or 2 tablespoons of sodium carbonate in 1 quart of hot water) and a scouring pad.

  If an element has begun to corrode, replace it with a new one. Many different element types and styles are widely available; simply take the old one to the hardware store and find a match. Cooler-than-normal water, sporadic hot water, and a short supply of hot water are all telltale signs of a corroded element.

  6. Reconnect the wires and refill the water heater.

  To refill the water heater, close the drain valve and turn the cold-water supply valve on, making sure that the hot-water faucet farthest from the water heater is left open to express all the air from the system.

  7. Check for leaks around the elements.

  8. After you’re sure that there are no leaks, replace the insulation and access panels and turn on the power.

  Hard water and an electric water heater are a disastrous combination. You will forever be cleaning and replacing electric elements. We suggest that you consider installing a water softener if you have an electric water heater.

  Fixing a defective thermostat or tripped limit switch

  If you still have a problem getting hot water out of your electric heater, it may be due to a defective thermostat or a tripped or defective high-temperature limit switch. The limit switch cuts off power to the element when the water temperature exceeds a certain limit — usually 190 degrees. You can reset a tripped high-temperature limit switch with the push of a button behind the access panel.

  If the switch continues to trip, it may be due to either a defective limit switch or element. In either case, one or both need to be replaced. To replace a thermostat, follow these steps:

  1. Turn off the water and power to the water heater and remove the access panel and insulation.

  2. Use a screwdriver to remove the wires from the thermostat.

  3. Loosen the bracket bolts that hold the thermostat in place and slide the thermostat out.

  4. Slide the new thermostat into place, tighten down the bolts, reconnect the wires, and press the Reset button.

  5. Reinstall the insulation and access panel; then turn on the water and power.

  Caring for your tankless water heater

  Tankless water heaters are the newest kids on the water heating block. Beyond the fact that they’re more energy efficient, they don’t have the cleaning and maintenance woes associated with traditional tank-style units. However, a few tasks will ensure that your tankless water heater has a long, prosperous, and energy-efficient life:

  Keep control compartments, burners, and circulating air passageways of the appliance clean. First, turn off and disconnect electrical power and allow the unit to cool. Then remove and clean the water inlet filter. Using pressurized air, clean dust from the main burner, heat exchanger, and fan blades. Finish by using a soft, dry cloth to wipe the cabinet.

  Inspect the vent system for blockages or damage at least once a year.

  Flush the heat exchanger to get rid of lime and scale build up. Consult the owner’s manual for specific instructions on how to flush the heat exchanger.

  Visually inspect the flame. The burner must flame evenly over the entire surface when operating correctly. The burner must burn with a clear, blue, stable flame. Consult a pro to clean and adjust the burner for an irregular flame.

  Softening Your Water

  With the exception of adding salt to the brine tank on a regular basis, a water-softening system is reasonably maintenance-free. Every now and then, the brine solution becomes clogged at the base of the brine tank, which prevents the solution from being siphoned into the resin tank. You know that this is the case if your brine tank is full of salt, yet your water doesn’t have that “slick” feel of softened water.

  You can correct this problem by removing all the salt from the brine tank and flushing the bottom of the tank with a garden hose and water. Before replacing the salt in the brine tank, manually cycle the unit to ensure that it’s operating properly. Individual units will have either a lever or a button that, when pressed, manually cycles the system. Check your owner’s manual to determine where the manual cycle button is on your water softener.

  Wishing Your Well Is Working Well

  If you don’t get your water from a municipal water source, it probably comes from a private well. Water is pumped from the source with a submersible pump that’s usually about 10 feet from the bottom of the well to a pressure tank in or near the house. The tank, in turn, feeds the water-supply lines. In a standard pressure tank, incoming water forces air into the upper third of the tank, where it forms a spring-like cushion. When the air pressure reaches a preset level — usually between 50 and 60 psi — the spring action of the compressed air triggers a pressure switch, which shuts off the pump. As water is drawn from the tank, pressure diminishes. When it reaches a preset level — 30 to 40 psi — the switch turns the pump on again.

  When the pressure tank loses too much air pressure, it can become “waterlogged,” which causes the pump to switch on and off frequently. You can solve this problem by doing the following:

  1. Turn off the power to the pump; then attach a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and open the valve and leave it open until there’s no more pressure in the tank.

  2. Open a faucet in the house to drain all the water out of the tank.

  3. When the tank is empty, turn off the faucet, close the drain valve on the tank, remove the hose, and turn the pump back on.

  A leaking tank is another prevalent problem. If a leak develops, it usually appears first as an oozing rusty blemish. Although tank plugs are available, they’re only a temporary measure. The tank should be replaced as soon as possible.

  Occasionally, the pump may stop working. If this is the case, first check for a blown fuse or tripped breaker. A loose wire may also be the source of the problem. If all these check out, your best bet is to call in a well service technician.

  Chapter 8

  Plumbing, Part II: Fixtures

  In This Chapter

  Cleaning plumbing fixtures

  Taking care of your toilet

  Maintaining your tub and shower

  You may be able to live with peeling paint, a squeaking floor, or doors that won’t shut properly. But, when it comes to your toilet and the woes that it encounters — not flushing properly, overflowing, or looking like a full-blown science experiment — that’s where you draw the line! Fear not! Armed with this chapter, a closet auger, a pumice stick, vinegar, turpentine, a wax ring, and other assorted paraphernalia, you’ll not only tame your toilet, you’ll transform your tub, shape up your shower, and make your faucets sparkle like Dorothy’s ruby red slippers. Oh my!

  Maintaining Fixture Surfaces: Stainless Steel, Cast Iron, Fiberglass, and More

  A home dweller eventually becomes intimately familiar with the various plumbing fixtures in a home — the sinks, tubs, toilets, and shower pans. It’s no fun when these fixtures become tattered. In many situations, cleaning is all it takes to make a worn-out fixture look brand-spanking-new!

  Stainless-steel fixtures

  Vitreous china and porcelain fixtures are great, but when it comes to sinks, one made of high-quality stainless steel wins hands down. Stainless steel sinks are light and easy to install, they don’t chip, and they’re easy to keep clean.

  To clean a stainless steel surface, use one of the following:

  One drop of liquid dish soap in 1 quart of hot water

  Baking soda mixed with water until it forms a paste

  One part vinegar to one part water

  Clean and then dry with a soft cloth. For toughe
r cleaning tasks, look for a commercial, stainless-steel cleaning product that contains oxalic acid. Regardless of the cleaner, a nylon scrubbing pad will help.

  When caring for stainless steel, follow these two simple rules:

  Never use steel wool. Steel-wool fibers can lodge in the surface of the stainless steel and eventually rust, giving the appearance that the stainless steel is rusting. What a mess!

  Don’t use abrasive cleaners. They can scratch the surface over time.

  If you really want to make your stainless-steel sink — and anything stainless steel (appliances, barbecue, and so on) — look like new, consider investing in a stainless-steel refinishing kit. Kits retail for about $50; can be found at appliance retailers, hardware stores, and home centers; last for years; and can make a tired, old, stainless-steel sink look like new.

  Porcelain-on-steel and porcelain-on-cast-iron fixtures

  Porcelain on steel and porcelain on cast iron are both used primarily for kitchen sinks, laundry sinks, and bathtubs. Although cast iron is a stronger base, making porcelain fixtures generally more durable, porcelain does chip, and the finish is every bit as easy to scratch as vitreous china.

  When porcelain is new, its surface gleams and glistens, but over time, it can lose its luster, especially if you use abrasives for cleaning. Plus, if you drop a heavy object onto a porcelain fixture, you may not shatter it, but you may chip the enamel. Fortunately, some companies do specialize in making such repairs. Look in the Yellow Pages under “plumbing fixture refinishing.” Here’s what the pros can do:

  Repair chips. A chip can be professionally repaired for about $75 to $125. Chip touch-up kits are available at your local home center or hardware store, but we think they’re useless — they don’t last, and the finished result usually looks terrible.

  Reglaze. Porcelain and ceramic sinks, tubs, and other bathroom fixtures that are badly scratched, are chipped, and have lost their luster can be reglazed (refinished) by a professional porcelain refinisher. The fixture must be removed and sent to the reglazing house where a porcelain finish is applied. It’s then returned and reinstalled — hopefully without chipping it in the process.

  Reglazing is very expensive. In fact, reglazing a porcelain fixture isn’t worth the cost or effort unless it’s a valuable antique or a family heirloom, because replacing the fixture is far less expensive.

  Refinish. Refinishing — a paint-like coating — is a far less expensive alternative to reglazing and can produce finishes with varying degrees of durability. The least durable refinishing method involves paints or epoxies similar to what you can buy in a home-improvement store. The best materials are the industrial systems designed specifically for porcelain refinishing. Plan to spend $250 to $750 for a professionally refinished tub, depending upon the size, color, and condition. Refinishing typically takes as many as two days. Make sure to ask the refinisher how long your sink, faucet, or tub will be out of commission.

  As you investigate refinishing companies, look for a reputable one with references. Also ask about the warranty: Anything less than a five-year guarantee makes this process a bad bet. Some companies offer longer guarantees.

  Fiberglass fixtures

  Fiberglass fixtures are popular because they’re competitively priced. Fiberglass has been around for a long time and is used most commonly in tubs and shower pans. Fiberglass fixtures aren’t as durable as other types of fixtures and must be treated with care. However, given such care, they’ll last as long as any other.

  A stained fiberglass tub or shower pan is a breeze to clean. Simply wet the entire surface to be cleaned with water, sprinkle on a thin layer of automatic dishwashing powder, and let it sit for about an hour. Keep the surface wet by spraying it with clear water. After an hour, use a nylon bristle brush to scrub away stains. Finish up by rinsing the entire area with fresh water.

  For severely stained tub or shower floors, plug the drain and fill the tub or shower pan with about an inch of water. Sprinkle the automatic dishwashing powder over the entire surface and allow it to sit overnight. Use the nylon brush to scrub away stains and thoroughly rinse with fresh water. You’ll be amazed by its like-new appearance!

  Composite fixtures

  Although fiberglass is a resin painted onto a backing, composite fixtures are great thick hulks of plastic also known as solid surface material. What you see on the surface goes all the way through to the other side of the fixture. Composite fixtures are long lasting and far more durable than fiberglass. However, they aren’t as damage resistant as stainless steel.

  Ordinary spills on composite require only a damp cloth for cleanup. You can eliminate tougher stains with a paste made of turpentine and salt: Mix 2 or 3 tablespoons of turpentine into 1/4 cup of regular table salt, use a nylon bristle brush to apply the cleaner and scrub away the stains, and wipe up the excess with a paper towel. (Let the towel air-dry before disposal.) Then finish up by using a mild detergent and water followed by a freshwater rinse.

  If a composite sink ever becomes really grungy, try filling the sink with a solution of bleach and water. The bleach works very well and will bring back the sink’s original color.

  Most composite fixture manufacturers have product cleaning, repair, and maintenance kits or recommend specific cleaning products. Check with the manufacturer or contact the dealer who installed the fixture.

  Because the finished look of a composite fixture goes all the way through, light sanding can remove burns, stains, or minor scratches. Polish the sanded area with fine 400- to 600-grit wet-dry sandpaper lubricated with turpentine to restore the surface to its original beauty. Wipe up the excess turpentine with a paper towel and finish the job by cleaning with a mild detergent and a freshwater rinse.

  Vitreous china fixtures

  Vitreous china — a smooth form of baked clay with a shiny or glassy look — is used primarily for bathroom sinks, toilets, and bidets. Although it’s strong, it can be chipped or broken if hit with a hard object, such as a tool. The bottom line: Be careful around vitreous china, especially during repairs and maintenance.

  China is easily scratched, so for most cleaning, leave your scouring powder and abrasive pads in the cupboard. Note: A variety of commercial products claim to clean china without causing damage, but proceed with caution. Abrasive cleaners slowly wear down china’s brilliant surface, although the process can take years. Make sure that the cleaner you select states that it is nonabrasive.

  For lime deposits, try a pumice stick — like the one our mom used on her feet to remove calluses — dipped in turpentine. Pumice is an extremely fine abrasive used for polishing. It comes in four grades with 4/0 being the finest. Don’t use hand cleaners; the grade of pumice used in them is too coarse.

  Shopping for recycled or vintage fixtures

  When it’s time to replace fixtures, either because you’re ready for a change or because the old ones are beyond repair, before you run out to buy new, think about buying used. Using recycled fixtures can have several benefits: Beyond achieving the desired look (usually something vintage or retro), recycled fixtures are usually less expensive than new ones. Plus, using recycled fixtures is very “green” and environmentally friendly — it reduces what goes into landfills and, in the big picture, saves on the manufacture and shipping of new products.

  Salvage and recycling centers sell used and surplus building materials at a fraction of normal prices. Although plumbing fixtures are among the most popular product categories, doors, windows, lumber, siding, trim, roofing, finish hardware, cabinetry, counters, flooring, lighting, radiators, and just about anything you can think of can be had.

  An entire network of salvage and recycling centers and retail outlets has sprung up across the land. An excellent resource for recycled fixtures is the Building Materials Reuse Association (www.bmra.org), which has several hundred affiliate members throughout the United States.

  Keep in mind that many vintage fixtures — particularly toilets and faucets — don’t meet curr
ent water conservation codes and, thus, can’t be used. Fortunately, there is no shortage of brand-spanking-new replica vintage plumbing fixtures and accessories that look just like the real McCoy. The difference is that these products are new and comply with current water conservation codes. Plus, their valve construction is more reliable, and the finishes are more durable. Check out Historic Houseparts (phone: 888-558-2329; Web: www.historichouseparts.com), Ohmega Salvage (phone: 510-204-0767; Web: www.ohmegasalvage.com), and Vintage Plumbing Bathroom Antiques (phone: 818-772-1721; Web: www.vintageplumbing.com) — or just type vintage plumbing fixtures into your favorite search engine. You’ll be amazed at what you find!