Moda All-Stars- Lucky Charm Quilts
Page 2
Finishing the Table Runner
Go to ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt for more details on quilting and finishing.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and runner top; baste the layers together. Hand or machine quilt as desired. The table runner shown was machine quilted with an allover swirl and feather design.
2 Use the navy 2½"-wide strips to make the binding and attach it to the runner.
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from SHERRI McCONNELL
Sherri McConnell leads a charmed life—a charmed quilting life, that is (aQuiltingLife.com).
What charms me most about charm packs is that they’re a terrific way to sample every piece of a collection, and they’re perfect for scrap quilts!
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs, are you more likely to use two or three from the same collection or from different collections? Different.
About those pinked edges, here’s my advice for taking them into account when you sew: I use the outer part of the pinked edge as the outer edge of the fabric.
Besides a 5" charm-square, my other go-to precut shape is a 2½" strip.
If I taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, I’d teach the students to press binding away from the quilt front after machine stitching and before hand stitching it to the back.
If I had to pick a “lucky” charm out of a charm pack, I’d choose one that’s blue, if possible, with a large floral or small geometric print.
In Charm School, you learn the social graces. But in Quilter’s Charm School you learn that there is a low-volume background to complement every charm square.
Holiday Charm by Lynne Hagmeier
Pieced and quilted by Lois Sprecker
FINISHED TABLE RUNNER: 16½" x 32½"
FINISHED BLOCK: 4" x 4"
CHARM PACKS NEEDED:
Decorate the table for the holidays with an elegant embellished table runner with accents of rich red, gold, and green. Lynne’s clever layered patchwork technique will save you time when appliquéing the blocks.
Materials
Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric. Charm squares are 5" x 5".
1 charm pack of assorted prints for blocks (11 tan and 21 dark red, gold, black, and green squares)
½ yard of black print for border and binding
⅝ yard of fabric for backing
21" x 37" piece of batting
Fusible web
Glue stick
10 black buttons, ½"-diameter
Cutting
All measurements include ¼"-wide seam allowances.
From each of 11 tan charm squares, cut:
2 squares, 2½" x 2½"; cut each square in half diagonally to yield 2 triangles (44 total)*
From each of 21 dark charm squares, cut:
1 square, 4½" x 4½" (21 total)
From the black print, cut:
6 strips, 2½" x 42"; crosscut 3 of the strips into:
2 strips, 2½" x 28½"
2 strips, 2½" x 16½"
*Refer to the cutting diagram below to retain the rectangles remaining from 10 charm squares for petal appliqués. (See “Appliquéing the Blocks” below for directions on preparing and cutting the petals.)
Appliquéing the Blocks
1 Use the remaining rectangles from 10 of the tan charm squares to make the petals for the Four-Petal blocks. Using the pattern on page 23, trace four petals onto the paper side of a piece of fusible web. Fuse the fusible web to the wrong side of one tan rectangle. Cut four petals along the drawn lines. Repeat to make 10 sets of four matching petals.
2 Select 10 dark squares for the backgrounds of the Four-Petal blocks. Center four matching petals right side up on one dark square as shown. Fuse the petals in place. Topstitch each petal ⅛" from the raw edge. Make 10.
3 Select 11 dark squares for the backgrounds of the Square in a Square blocks. Pair each dark square with one matching set of four tan triangles.
4 With right sides facing up, place one triangle on one corner of a dark square, aligning the straight edges. Apply a dab of glue to each point of the triangle to secure it. Sew ⅛" from the diagonal edge of the triangle. Repeat to appliqué a triangle on each corner of the block. Make 11 Square in a Square blocks.
LIKE A CHARM
“This works like a charm for me every time: Embrace the pinked edge as a decorative element with my Layered Patchwork technique. It adds a fun dimension to simple blocks.”
~Lynne
Assembling the Table Runner
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Lay out three rows of seven blocks, alternating the Four Petal and Square-in-a-Square blocks as shown. Join the blocks in each row, and then join the rows. The runner center should measure 12½" x 28½".
2 Sew the 2½" x 28½" black strips to the long sides of the runner center; press the seam allowances toward the borders. Sew the 2½" x 16½" black strips to the short sides of the runner; press. The runner top should measure 16½" x 32½".
Finishing the Table Runner
Go to ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt for more details on quilting and finishing.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and runner top; baste the layers together. Hand or machine quilt as desired. The runner shown was machine quilted in a square grid, and the petals were outlined and echo quilted to highlight the design.
2 Use the black 2½" x 42" strips to make the binding and attach it to the runner.
3 Hand stitch a button at the center of each Four Petal block.
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from LYNNE HAGMEIER
Lynne Hagmeier has miles of Midwestern charm, known to quilters as Kansas Troubles Quilters (KTQuilts.com).
What charms me most about charm packs is that there’s a wonderful little piece of each fabric from the collection in every charm pack.
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs, are you more likely to use two or three from the same collection or from different collections? Different.
About those pinked edges, here’s my advice for taking them into account when you sew: Measure your precut to see where the 5" dimension is, and adjust your seam allowance accordingly.
Besides a 5" charm-square, my other go-to precut shape is a 10" Layer Cake square.
If I taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, I’d teach the students to perfect their technique for continuous binding. A flat, even binding is the perfect finish to a charming quilt.
If I had to pick a “lucky” charm out of a charm pack, I’d choose a tan background with a multicolored small print—the perfect background!
In Charm School, you learn the social graces. But in Quilter’s Charm School you learn that all charms play nicely together—the more different prints and fabric lines, the better.
To download and print a PDF of this pattern, go to www.epub.ShopMartingale.com/b1403
Hexagon Braid by Jenny Doan
FINISHED TABLE RUNNER: 24" x 52"
FINISHED BRAID: 5¾" x 41½"
CHARM PACKS NEEDED:
Create a complex braided look with patchwork by using a half-hexagon shape in an easy repeated-stacking process. The hexagon pattern is designed to fit perfectly on a charm square, so cutting is a breeze.
Materials
Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric. Charm squares are 5" x 5".
1 charm pack (40 squares) of assorted bright prints for braids
⅓ yard of white solid for sashing and inner border
½ yard of pink print for outer border
⅓ yard of gray print for binding
1¾ yards of fabric for backing (with vertical seam)
29" x 56" piece of batting
Cutting
All measurements include ¼"-wide seam allowances.
From the charm squares, cut:
80 rectangles, 2½" x 5"; from each rectangle, cut 1 half hexagon using the template on page 29
From the white solid, cut:
4 strips, 2½" x 42"; crosscut 1 of the strips into 2 pieces, 2½" x 18"
From the pink print, cut:
4 strips, 3½" x 42"
From the gray print, cut:
4 strips, 2½" x 42"
Assembling the Braid
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Organize the hexagons into two stacks of 42. Place two half hexagons from one pile right side up, aligning one edge as shown. Flip the bottom hexagon to the wrong side, placing it right sides together with the top hexagon. Match the bottom edges, making sure a dog-ear extends by exactly ¼" at the corner. Sew the bottom edges.
2 Sew the next hexagon to the unit with the long edge of the new hexagon adjoining the edge with the seam that was just sewn. Continue adding the remaining hexagons from the pile in this manner.
3 Make two braids of 40 hexagons each. Trim each braid as shown to measure 6¼" x 42".
Assembling the Table Runner
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Sew one white 2½" x 42" strip between the two braids. The runner center should measure 14" x 42".
2 For the inner border, sew one white 2½" x 42" strip to each side of the runner center. Sew the 2½" x 18" white strips to the top and bottom of the runner. The runner should measure 18" x 46".
3 Cut one of the pink strips into two pieces, 3½" x 18", and sew them to the top and bottom of the runner. Join the remaining three pink strips end to end, and from this long strip, cut two side border strips to fit the length of the runner (which should be 52" long). Sew these strips to the sides of the runner. Press. The runner should measure 24" x 52".
Finishing the Table Runner
Go to ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt for more details on quilting and finishing.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and runner top; baste the layers together. Hand or machine quilt as desired. The runner shown was machine quilted in an allover flower and swirl pattern.
2 Use the gray print 2½"-wide strips to make the binding and attach it to the runner.
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from JENNY DOAN
Jenny Doan (MissouriQuiltCo.com) has never met a charm pack she didn’t like.
What charms me most about charm packs is convenience! I know if I want to make a baby quilt, I need one charm pack, two packs will make a crib quilt, three make a lap, and four will make a twin-size. Convenience!
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs, are you more likely to use two or three from the same collection or from different collections? Same.
This works like a charm for me every time: Press from the top and then flip the fabric over and, when possible, press the seam allowances to the darker fabric.
About those pinked edges, here’s my advice for taking them into account when you sew: The pinked edge does crazy things to our perfect quarter-inch, so for me a consistent seam allowance is more important than a perfect quarter-inch. It’s a personal preference, but I like to see those points sticking out under the edge of the presser foot.
Besides a 5" charm square, my other go-to precut shape is a 2½" strip.
If I taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, I’d teach the students to go at their own pace. Enjoy the journey.
If I had to pick a “lucky” charm out of a charm pack, I’d choose one that had lots of colors in it so it would bring all the other squares together.
In Charm School, you learn the social graces. But in Quilter’s Charm School you learn that finished is better than perfect. Sewing is a practiced skill and the more you sew the better you will get.
To download and print a PDF of this pattern, go to www.epub.ShopMartingale.com/b1403
Two-Pack Buzz by Barbara Groves and Mary Jacobson
FINISHED QUILT: 42½" x 50½"
FINISHED BLOCK: 8" x 8"
CHARM PACKS NEEDED:
Combine two charm packs of cheerful prints to make these fun Buzz Saw blocks. Use two identical charm packs or mix two different packs with coordinating colors for a more varied effect.
Materials
Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric. Charm squares are 5" x 5".
2 charm packs of assorted bright prints for blocks (you’ll need 78 squares)
1⅝ yards of white solid for blocks, inner border, and outer border
½ yard of aqua print for binding
2¾ yards of fabric for backing
49" x 57" piece of batting
Cutting
All measurements include ¼"-wide seam allowances. Note that you’ll cut 38 charm squares into rectangles and reserve 40 for making the half-square-triangle units.
From each of 38 charm squares, cut:
3 rectangles, 1½" x 4½" (114 total)
From the white solid, cut:
5 strips, 5" x 42"; crosscut the strips into 40 squares, 5" x 5"
5 strips, 3½" x 42"
5 strips, 1½" x 42"; crosscut 1 strip into:
4 rectangles, 1½" x 3½"
4 rectangles, 1½" x 2½"
From the aqua print, cut:
5 strips, 2½" x 42"
Assembling the Blocks
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the white squares. Place one print square and one white square right sides together with the white square on top. Sew ¼" from each side of the drawn line. Cut along the line to yield two half-square-triangle units. Referring to “Trim and Stack” below trim the units to measure 4½" square. Make 80.
2 Crosscut each unit into three 1½" x 4½" segments as shown. Keep the matching sets of segments together.
TRIM AND STACK
After trimming the half-square-triangle units, stack them with the print triangle at bottom left. Aligning the stack will help you keep the units organized and prevent you from slicing one in the wrong direction.
3 Rearrange three matching segments as shown. Select one 1½" x 4½" rectangle of a different print. Join the three segments and the print rectangle. Make 80 pieced units that measure 4½" square.
4 Lay out two rows of two units, orienting the segments as shown. Join the units in each vertical row, and then join the rows. Make 20 blocks that measure 8½" square.
Assembling the Pieced Borders
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Lay out nine 1½" x 4½" rectangles and two white 1½" x 3½" rectangles end to end as shown. Join the rectangles. The border should measure 1½" x 42½". Make two.
2 Lay out eight print 1½" x 4½" rectangles and two white 1½" x 2½" rectangles end to end as shown. Join the rectangles. The border should measure 1½" x 36½". Make two.
Assembling the Quilt Top
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Lay out the blocks in five rows of four as shown in the quilt assembly diagram. Join the blocks in each row, and then join the rows. The quilt center should measure 32½" x 40½".
2 Trim two of the white 1½" x 42" strips to 40½" long. Sew the strips to the sides of the quilt center. Trim the two remaining white 1½" x 42" strips to measure 1½" x 34½". Sew these strips to the top and bottom of the quilt center. The quilt should measure 34½" x 42½".
3 Sew the pieced 1½" x 42½" borders to the sides of the quilt, and then sew the pieced 1½" x 36½" borders to the top and bottom of the quilt. The quilt should measure 36½" x 44½".
4 Join the white 3½" x 42" strips end to end. From this strip, cut two strips, 3½" x 44½", and sew them to the sides of the quilt. Cut two strips, 3½" x 42½", and sew them to the top and bottom of the quilt. The quilt should measure 42½" x 50½".
Finishing the Quilt
For more details on quilting and finishing, you can visit ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top; baste the layers together.
2 Hand or machine quilt as desired. The quilt shown was machine quilted with a flower de
sign in the center of the blocks and an allover loop design in the background. The borders are quilted with a vine and loop design.
3 Use the aqua 2½"-wide strips to make the binding and attach it to the quilt.
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from BARBARA GROVES and MARY JACOBSON
Barbara Groves and Mary Jacobson are charmed and charmed alike, considering this sister/sister act is the duo known as Me and My Sister Designs (MeandMySisterDesigns.com).
What charms us most about charm packs is the size. We love getting at least one of everything from a fabric collection in an affordable bundle.
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs, are you more likely to use two or three from the same collection or from different collections? Same!
This works like a charm for us every time: Whenever I make a mistake and something needs to be unsewn, I show it to my sister, the perfectionist. All I have to say is, “I’m going to leave it,” and she can’t stand it . . . so she rips it out for me. (Names have been redacted to protect the innocent.)
About those pinked edges, here’s our advice for taking them into account when you sew: Mary: They drive me crazy. I want to trim them all off. Barb: I just make sure to measure and sew from the very outer pinked edge.