Moda All-Stars- Lucky Charm Quilts
Page 3
Besides a 5" charm square, our other go-to precut shape is a fat quarter. (BUT, we really LOVE six-yard chunks!)
If we taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, we’d teach the students to hand sew their binding. It’s so relaxing!
If we had to pick a “lucky” charm out of a charm pack, we’d choose one that is lime green. It goes with everything!
In Charm School, you learn the social graces. But in Quilter’s Charm School you learn that it’s okay if your points don’t always match, as long as you’re having fun—and then ask your machine quilter to stitch over those spots whenever possible.
Scrappy Christmas by Anne Sutton
FINISHED TABLE RUNNER: 19½" x 43½"
FINISHED BLOCK: 3" x 3"
CHARM PACKS NEEDED:
Use two charm packs in festive red, pink, green, and brown prints to make a cute yuletide table runner. The small-scale Hourglass blocks are reminiscent of tasty Christmas candy.
Materials
Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric. Charm squares are 5" x 5".
2 charm packs of assorted red, green, cream, tan, and brown prints for rows, borders, and binding. You’ll need 43 assorted medium/dark (collectively referred to as “dark”) and 19 light squares.
⅝ yard of cream print for background
1½ yards of fabric for backing
25" x 49" piece of batting
Cutting
From the dark charm squares, cut:
17 squares, 2½" x 2½"
48 rectangles, 2" x 2½"
17 matching pairs of squares, 2" x 2" (34 total)
1 matching set of 4 squares, 2" x 2"
31 rectangles, 2¼" x 5", for binding
From the light charm squares, cut:
36 rectangles, 2½" x 3½"
1 matching set of 4 squares, 2½" x 2½"
From the cream print for background, cut:
2 strips, 3½" x 42"; crosscut the strips into 16 squares, 3½" x 3½"
2 strips, 2½" x 42"; crosscut the strips into 17 squares, 2½" x 2½"
3 strips, 2" x 42"; crosscut the strips into:
2 strips, 2" x 33½"
2 strips, 2" x 12½"
Assembling the Rows
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of each 2½" cream square. Place each marked square right sides together with one dark 2½" square, with the marked square on top. Sew ¼" from each side of the drawn line. Cut along the line to yield two half-square-triangle units. Trim each unit to measure 2" square. Make 34.
2 Lay out two matching half-square-triangle units and two matching dark 2" squares in two rows of two as shown. Join the units in each row, and then join the rows to make an hourglass unit. The unit should measure 3½" square. Make 17.
3 Sew one cream 3½" square between two hourglass units. The row should measure 3½" x 9½". Make 6.
4 Sew one hourglass unit between two cream 3½" squares. The row should measure 3½" x 9½". Make 5.
Assembling the Borders and Binding
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 For the middle border, sew 18 dark 2" x 2½" rectangles end to end. The strip should measure 2" x 36½". Make two. Sew six dark 2" x 2½" rectangles end to end, and then sew two of the four matching dark 2" squares to the ends of the strip. The strip should measure 2" x 15½". Make two.
2 For the outer border, join 13 light 2½" x 3½" rectangles end to end. The strip should measure 2½" x 39½". Make two. Join five light 2½" x 3½" rectangles end to end, and then sew two light 2½" squares to the ends of the strip. The strip should measure 2½" x 19½". Make two.
3 Join the dark 2¼" x 5" binding rectangles end to end to make the pieced binding. Press the seam allowances open to reduce bulk.
Assembling the Table Runner
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Lay out the block rows, alternating them as shown in the runner assembly diagram below. Join the rows. The runner should measure 9½" x 33½".
2 Sew the cream 2" x 33½" strips to the sides of the runner center. Sew the cream 2" x 12½" strips to the top and bottom of the runner center. Sew the middle border strips and outer border strips to the runner. The runner should measure 19½" x 43½".
Finishing the Table Runner
For more details on quilting and finishing, you can visit ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and table-runner top; baste the layers together. Hand or machine quilt as desired. The runner shown was machine quilted with a snowflake design in the background and quilted in the ditch around the blocks and borders. The inner border rectangles were framed with an orange peel design. The outer border squares were quilted with a loop design evocative of a Christmas tree.
2 Use the pieced 2¼"-wide strip to make the binding and attach it to the runner.
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from ANNE SUTTON
Add two parts charm and one part sweetness to equal the engaging personality of designer Anne Sutton of Bunny Hill Designs (BunnyHillDesigns.com).
What charms me most about charm packs is this: Who doesn’t like a 5" sample of every fabric in the line?
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs, are you more likely to use two or three from the same collection or from different collections? Same.
This works like a charm for me every time: Starch away! I use Faultless Premium Starch (hint: look for the gold lid).
About those pinked edges, here’s my advice for taking them into account when you sew: Ignore them and sew with a ¼" seam allowance.
Besides a 5" charm-square, my other go-to precut shape is a fat-quarter bundle.
If I taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, I’d teach the students to finish the ends of the binding professionally—smooth with no lumps or bumps!
If I had to pick a “lucky” charm out of a charm pack, I’d choose one with a small print that I could fussy-cut.
In Charm School, you learn the social graces. But in Quilter’s Charm School you learn that one of the charms in a charm pack is always going to stand out from the others. Be sure and use it in your quilt. It will add interest.
Sweet Stripes by Karla Eisenach
FINISHED QUILT: 42½" x 57"
FINISHED BLOCK: 2" x 4½"
CHARM PACKS NEEDED:
Stitch an eye-catching striped quilt from two charm packs in the timeless color combination of black, red, and cream. The vertical rows are fast and fun to piece, so the quilt top comes together in a flash.
Materials
Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric. Charm squares are 5" x 5".
2 charm packs of assorted red, black, cream, and gray prints for patchwork rows (you’ll need 77 squares)
1½ yards of cream gingham for background and border
½ yard of red-and-white stripe for binding
2¾ yards of fabric for backing
49" x 64" piece of batting
Cutting
All measurements include ¼"-wide seam allowances.
From each charm square, cut:
1 rectangle, 2½" x 5" (77 total)
2 squares, 2½" x 2½" (154 total)
From the lengthwise grain of the cream gingham, cut:
8 strips, 4" x 50"
2 strips, 4" x 42½"
From the red-and-white stripe, cut:
5 strips, 2½" x 42"
Assembling the Pieced Rows
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Select two squares and one rectangle, all with different prints. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the print 2½" squares. Place the marked squares right sides together with the rectangle, orienting the drawn lines as shown. Sew along the marked lines. Trim the unit ¼" outside of each sewn line; press. Repeat to make 77 units.
2 Join 11 units end to end to make one pieced row
measuring 2½" x 50". Make 7 rows.
LIKE A CHARM
“For quilts with many seam intersections, I press seam allowances open, which makes matching intersections easy.” ~Karla
Assembling the Quilt Top
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows. Lay out the pieced rows and gingham 4" x 50" strips, alternating them as shown in the quilt assembly diagram. Join the rows and strips. The quilt should measure 42½" x 50". Sew the gingham 4" x 42½" strips to the top and bottom of the quilt.
Finishing the Quilt
Go to ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt for more details on quilting and finishing.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top; baste the layers together. Hand or machine quilt as desired. The quilt shown was machine quilted with a diamond pattern in the borders and sashing.
2 Use the red and white 2½"-wide strips to make the binding and attach it to the quilt.
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from KARLA EISENACH
Karla Eisenach is both sweet and charming, as one third of the design trio that is Sweetwater (TheSweetwaterCo.com).
What charms me most about charm packs is that you get an assortment of colors and prints that are meant to be together.
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs, are you more likely to use two or three from the same collection or from different collections? Different.
About those pinked edges, here’s my advice for taking them into account when you sew: Don’t stress about them. As long as you’re consistent with your seam allowance, you will be okay.
Besides a 5" charm-square, my other go-to precut shape is a 2½" square.
If I taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, I’d teach the students to think of binding as the frame on their piece of art—their finished quilt.
If I had to pick a “lucky” charm out of a charm pack, I’d choose one that is a little bit bold—a show-off.
Heading West by Pat Sloan
FINISHED QUILT: 45½" x 61"
FINISHED BLOCK: 7⅜" x 7⅜"
CHARM PACKS NEEDED:
All blocks point west in Pat’s playful triangle-themed quilt. Combine two charm packs of scrappy green, blue, and red prints with a fun and simple polka dot background.
Materials
Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric. Charm squares are 5" x 5".
2 charm packs of assorted green, navy, red, aqua, gray, and white prints for blocks. You’ll need at least 48 medium/dark (collectively referred to as “dark”) and 24 light squares.
2½ yards of charcoal polka dot cotton/linen blend for blocks, setting triangles, and border
½ yard of green print for binding
3 yards of fabric for backing
51" x 68" piece of batting
COLOR COMBOS
Pat used the same two colors and prints in the pieced section of most blocks. To get the best use out of the charm packs, she also made scrappy blocks. Depending on the assortment in your charm pack, you can mix or match fabrics.
Cutting
All measurements include ¼"-wide seam allowances.
For each of 24 dark charm squares:
Trim to 4¾" square first; then cut into quarters diagonally to yield 4 triangles (96 total)
From the charcoal polka dot, cut from the lengthwise grain:
1 strip, 22" x 64"; crosscut the strip into:
2 strips, 5" x 64"
2 strips, 5" x 54"
From the remaining charcoal polka dot, cut:
3 strips, 8½" x 42"; crosscut into 14 squares, 8½" x 8½". Cut each square in half diagonally to yield 2 block triangles (28 total, 1 is extra).
3 squares, 11½" x 11½"; cut each square into quarters diagonally to yield 4 setting triangles (12 total; 2 are extra)
1 square, 6½" x 6½"; cut the square in half diagonally to yield 2 corner triangles
From the green print for binding, cut:
5 strips, 2½" x 42"
Assembling the Blocks
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows. The quilt contains 27 blocks and five half blocks. Each block contains three half-square-triangle units, three dark triangles, and one charcoal 8½" triangle. Each half block is composed of the pieced triangle unit only.
1 Select 24 dark and 24 light charm squares. Draw diagonal lines from corner to corner in both directions on the wrong side of each light square.
2 Place a marked light square right sides together with a dark square. Sew a scant ¼" inside the perimeter of the squares. Cut along the lines to yield four half-square-triangle units; press carefully. Trim the units to measure 3" square. Make 96.
HANDLE WITH CARE
Note that the outer edges of the half-square-triangle units are cut on the bias, which is less stable than the lengthwise and crosswise fabric grains. Be very careful not to stretch the edges of the units as you press them. Pat uses spray starch to add stability.
3 Choose a color/print combination for the pieced half of each block (see “Color Combos” on page 45). Lay out three half-square-triangle units and three small triangles as shown. Join the pieces in two sections; join the sections. Make 32 pieced triangles.
4 Select 27 pieced triangles for the blocks and reserve five units for the half blocks. Sew a charcoal 8½" triangle to each of the 27 units as shown, using a scant ¼" seam allowance. Square up each block to measure 7⅞" square.
Assembling the Quilt Top
Press the seam allowances as indicated by the arrows.
1 Lay out the blocks in seven diagonal rows, placing them on point as shown in the quilt assembly diagram. Place the setting triangles along the top, bottom, and left sides, filling in the spaces between the blocks. Place the corner triangles in the left top and bottom corners. Place the half blocks along the right side. Join the pieces in each diagonal row, and then join the rows. The quilt should measure approximately 36½" x 52".
2 Measure the quilt top horizontally through the center. Trim the short 5"-wide strips to the measurement, and then sew them to the top and bottom of the quilt. Press the seam allowances toward the borders. Measure the quilt top vertically through the center, including the borders, and then trim and sew the long 5"-wide strips to the sides of the quilt top; press. The quilt should measure 45½" x 61".
Finishing the Quilt
Go to ShopMartingale.com/HowtoQuilt for more details on quilting and finishing.
1 Layer the backing, batting, and quilt top; baste the layers together. Hand or machine quilt as desired. The quilt shown was machine quilted with rows of circles in the borders and an echoing curved triangle design in the blocks.
2 Use the green 2½"-wide strips to make the binding and attach it to the quilt. Pat used a machine sewing method to attach her double-fold binding. She first sewed it to the back of the quilt with the raw edges aligned. She then folded the binding to the front and blanket stitched along the fold from the front of the quilt.
A CHARMING FINISH
“If I taught at Quilters’ Finishing School, I’d teach the students to make triangle labels for all their quilts. Fold a square in half diagonally. The two raw-edge sides are sewn into your binding with only one side left to hand stitch!”
~Pat
Charmed, I’m Sure!
from PAT SLOAN
Pat Sloan (PatSloan.com) is at her most charming when she’s teaching others to quilt!
What charms me most about charm packs is that I love having a piece of the full range of fabrics in a line. It helps me with my fabric choices!
Same or different? If you’re making a project with multiple charm packs, are you more likely to use two or three of the same collection or from different collections? Same.
This works like a charm for me every time: Using the half-square triangle reference chart in my Teach Me To Sew Triangles book.
About those pinked edges, here’s my advice for taking them into account when you sew: I consider them part of my charm and measure from the outside poi
nt. They don’t bother me at all.
Besides a 5" charm-square, my other go-to precut shape is a nice, big, Layer Cake square. Because it’s 10", I can do so much with it!
If I had to pick a “lucky” charm out of a charm pack, I’d choose one that has dots. I’m CRAZY for dots! It’s delightful to find a beautiful, yummy dot in my charm pack.
In Charm School, you learn the social graces. But in Quilter’s Charm School you learn that your charm pack is an amazing design unit that, when paired with a blender, will make 84 half-square triangles. In turn, those can turn into a zillion different quilt designs!
Prairie Nights by Kathy Schmitz
FINISHED QUILT: 50" x 50"
FINISHED BLOCK: 10½ x 10½"
CHARM PACKS NEEDED:
A combination of red, black, and tan prints and striking Hourglass blocks makes for a simple yet dramatic design. This throw-sized quilt is perfect for cozying up on a chilly autumn evening.
Materials
Yardage is based on 42"-wide fabric. Charm squares are 5" x 5".
2 charm packs of assorted red, black, and tan prints for blocks and sashing (you’ll need 18 red, 18 black, and 40 tan squares)