The Essentials of Living Aboard a Boat

by Mark Nicholas

  Also, never buy the kind of envelopes or stamps that require moisture to seal, since you already have plenty of moisture and they will seal themselves into a giant mess. And keep all of your paper supplies and files either in warm air or in moisture-sealed containers.

  Temperature

  A nice temperature is quite helpful for comfort. If you are not comfortable, you won’t live aboard long-term.

  My marina charges for electricity during the winter. I would have been more comfortable and would have saved a substantial amount of money if I had avoided using electric heaters as my primary heaters and instead installed a forced-air diesel central heating unit. I’d seal up the v-berth (effectively cutting my small amount of living space in half) and run two space heaters: an oil-filled heater, which was kept on every day all day, and an electric space heater I only used while aboard, for safety reasons. My electric bill got pretty high.

  One of the leading causes of boat fires is electric heaters. The leading causes of death among occupants of boats are boat fires and poor ventilation; both increase in cold climates during the winter season.

  Heating

  In cold climates, your boat can feel quite confining, and anything that detracts from the comfort will diminish your quality of life. There are specifically two ways to heat the interior of a boat: radiant heat and forced air (central) heat.

  Radiant Heat

  This is heat that radiates or spreads out from a source. Space heaters are classic methods of heating a boat; the portable ones are predominantly electric. Quality units can be found in RV and marine stores. There are other variations as well, such as portable units that use small propane canisters or mini diesel tanks, and bulkhead-mounted heaters that operate on propane or diesel fuel.

  The principle advantage to a space heater is that it allows you to target the specific location you want to heat. The disadvantage is that the heat is limited to the area surrounding the heater, and the heat diminishes significantly as you move away from it. Also, space heaters don’t heat well through bulkheads, walls, locker doors, or under cushions.

  Electric space heaters can be placed anywhere and produce a hot/dry heat. The disadvantages to electric space heaters are: (1) They cost a lot to operate, since they draw significant amounts of electricity; (2) the house wires, outlet, and cord can heat up if the wires are not of an acceptable grade, causing a risk of fire in nonvisible areas of the boat; (3) the space heater becomes very hot and can burn anything that makes contact with it; and (4) in the event that the space heater falls over, which is common in a boat, the space heater can self-ignite. Every year, boat fires are caused by the use of electric heaters.

  Bulkhead space heaters use predominantly propane or diesel fuels, and avoid many of the potentially dangerous conditions discussed above, provided that the use of propane is handled in a safe and responsible way.

  Propane bulkhead space heaters preclude the risk of electrical fires, since they can be operated with no electricity at all, although it is advisable to use a low-draw fan to help circulate the warm air. Small, one-pound propane tanks are quite economical and can last a long time. Fire is still a risk, since the heating element or flame can become very hot and propane is a highly explosive fuel. We’ll talk about the safety issues with the use of propane later, but understand that propane gas, when released, can be very dangerous, particularly on a boat.

  Diesel bulkhead space heaters have the same benefits as propane heaters and can become extremely hot. Their fuel, however, is not explosive.

  Be aware of ventilation requirements of your propane and diesel heaters (as well as other combustion heaters such as solid fuel heaters). It is extremely important that you vent out any fumes produced by the heater, as burning fuel produces carbon monoxide. Also, propane and diesel heaters heat by burning their fuels, and therefore require oxygen to work. The oxygen is drawn from the air surrounding the unit; while this helps to reduce moisture in the air, it can deplete the oxygen to dangerous levels, particularly during the winter when boats are sealed.

  Bulkhead propane and diesel heaters do not have heavy electrical draws, although some have added fans, often running on 12 volts at very low amperage to help to circulate the heat. Consequently, there is very little risk of an electrical fire. Bulkhead heaters generally require venting, and some are designed to both bring in fresh air for combustion and exhaust the fumes. While this does not help as much to pull the moisture from the air (at least, not to the extent of a heater that combusts surrounding air), the result is a clean heat that does not deplete oxygen levels inside the boat.

  Diesel bulkhead heaters can be fueled by separate tanks, such as gravity tanks, or can even pump diesel fuel from a tank in another part of the boat (including your diesel tank if your boat uses diesel fuel). This is typically done with a low amperage 12-volt fuel pump.

  Be watchful of the temperature of the chimney and follow the recommended guidelines. If the unit is mounted too close to the deck, the deck can become extremely hot, which will damage the boat as well as introduce risk of fire or fumes.

  I installed a bulkhead diesel heater that pumped fuel via a 12-volt pump from a portable plastic gas tank, which I fitted with a system that would allow the fuel hose to be snapped on and off. I bought a separate tank, and when one tank was almost depleted, I could go to any gas station, fill up a second tank—also fitted with the snapping system—and swap the tanks instantly, with never a moment of downtime or risk of a spill. Even in very cold weather, this tank switch could be done quickly and safely.

  I supplemented this diesel system with an oil-filled electric space heater, which I liked because there is no exposed heating element, and there is a more manageable electrical draw. The unit works safely to warm the ambiant air, bringing my living quarters to comfortable temperatures more quickly than diesel would alone—the downside to diesel heaters is that it takes about twenty minutes to get them going, and the process takes some supervision.

  Central Heat

  If I had it to do all over again, I would install a central heating system immediately upon moving aboard.

  There are many advantages to central heating systems. The system uses a fuel, whether propane or diesel, that is far more efficient than electricity, therefore saving you money over more common electric space heaters. Another major advantage is that the heat is distributed throughout the boat, and a multi-zone thermostatically-controlled system can be installed. This means that you are only heating the boat (or select sections of the boat) when the ambiant temperature drops below a designated level—as compared to other systems that must be manually controlled. Vents can be installed and adjusted to better target the quarters you want to heat. Another major advantage is that the heat is forced air, which is distributed by ducts hidden underneath the cabinets, berths, and benches. This means that the heater is not taking up valuable floor or bulkhead space in the boat, and that the ducts themselves give off radiant heat that is now capable of warming previously unheated areas of the boat, reducing condensation in hard-to-reach nooks and crannies.

  Another advantage of many central heating systems is that they are often 12-volt systems allowing the boat to be heated effectively while cruising.

  The disadvantage to central heating is the initial cost and periodic maintenance costs of the unit. Compared to a $100 electric space heater, a central heating system can run in the thousands of dollars, not to mention the labor necessary to run the ductwork and electrical lines. Much or all of this added cost will be recovered over time through decreased electric utility bills. Another disadvantage of the unit is that if the boat is not operational for the winter, fuel will need to be brought aboard regularly in containers and poured into the main tank, a task that might have to be done in extremely cold temperatures—and fuel can be easily spilled, resulting in diesel odors and slick conditions (diesel fuel is very slippery).

  Shrinkwrapping or Canvas Covers

  Liveaboards in cold winter climates face a signific
ant challenge not only in heating their boat, but also in keeping snow and ice off her. Snow and ice can cause dangerous conditions for standing and maneuvering on deck, trap occupants aboard or prevent access to the hatches, cut airflow and oxygen from getting to and escaping from the boat, and can damage the boat by causing pooled water around fittings. Moreover, if water pools in or under any fittings, or gets into the deck and freezes, the consequent expansion will create increased openings for water to leak and pool and cause increasing structural damage to the boat.

  The only acceptable way to deal with this is to prevent the snow and ice from accumulating on deck in the first place. Shrinkwrapping is a common method that boaters in cold climates use to prevent this from happening. It also adds a significant amount of protection from weather.

  Shrinkwrapping means building a frame over the structure of a boat with a door built into the frame, and putting plastic over the frame anchored to a line run around the deck or hull. The plastic is then heated, causing it to shrink into a taut shell.

  The frame is typically made of disposable wood, but can be built out of metal conduit for boaters who expect to be shrinkwrapping year after year, as the conduit can be stored and reused.

  The downside to shrinkwrapping is that it carries an expense, both in parts and labor, and the boat is not operational during the time the boat is wrapped (although this isn’t typically a problem, since the engine has been winterized and the boat is unusable anyway). The upsides are that the shrinkwrap traps heat like a greenhouse on sunny days, and protects the deck from wind and weather. There were many subfreezing sunny days when the greenhouse effect allowed me to sit or work on deck in shorts and a t-shirt, and from time to time I would even have to open up the door to cool off both me and the boat a bit with a blast of arctic air.

  There are several options for creating a door through the shrinkwrapping shell. These include zipper cutouts, plywood doors, and even some thermally insulating doors. Zippers, while the cheapest solution, are fragile and small, making for difficult entry and the possibility that the door might not even survive through a winter season. Plywood doors are the most common, and are typically disposable. Thermal doors are effective although rarely utilized—and unless you want to incur substantial expenses every year for a new door, often need to be stored. Thermal doors work well with conduit (reusable) systems.

  A great alternative to shrinkwrapping is the use of a canvas cover. There are companies that create custom covers with transparent windows and easy-install/reusable frames. The advantage to these systems is that the canvas lasts a long time (although the windows do need to be replaced every few years), breathes well (obviously far better than plastic), and is environmentally responsible—all while doing an excellent job of retaining heat. The disadvantage is that canvas covers are expensive, much darker than translucent plastic shrinkwrapping, and require storage when not in use. Still, if you are plan to keep your boat for many years, this could be an economical solution.

  Shrinkwrapping—Critical Protection!

  In the Boston area, I know only a handful of liveaboards who do not shrinkwrap or cover their boats. While some of these liveaboards justify their decision by their desire to continue using their boats during the winter, this choice requires not only that the engine compartments be heated (since freezing temperatures could destroy the engine), but that the boat be positioned on the far outside of the marinas so she will be able to leave a place highly susceptible to winter storms. (Cool-weather marinas may tie the docks together in the winter to better withstand heavy weather. This magnifies the exposure of the boat to weather conditions and storm damage.)

  Cooling

  In hot weather, ventilation continues to be one of the most important solutions for cooling a boat. Two other solutions for controlling hot temperatures and cooling a boat are (i) maintaining shade over as much of the boat and its ports as possible, and (ii) air conditioning. Both solutions are commonly employed by liveaboards.

  Shade

  Shading your boat is easy and can be extremely effective in providing relief from the summer sun. A good shade system can even protect from the rain and can provide a wonderful opportunity to sit on deck and read, eat, drink, talk, or just watch the rain (one of my favorite activities) during less-than-favorable days.

  There are many systems for shading a boat. Some boaters buy tarps and drape them over sailboat booms or hang them from high points on decks. Other boaters build or install frames made out of wood or metal, or even just rope. Other boaters have enclosures or biminis custom-built, creating actual sitting areas or rooms.

  The best solution is any one that gets the sun off the deck, hatches, and ports. Canvas makers can often very economically make wonderful creations that are durable and UV resistant and that will last for years. Any department or painting store that sells cheap tarps will do just fine, as well. A little creativity can dramatically increase your comfort.

  Air Conditioning

  There are three methods for air conditioning a boat: central air, hatch air, and portable air conditioning.

  Central air conditioning units require a central unit as well as ductwork to distribute the cool air. Some air conditioning units cool the air from the water (requiring one or more through-hulls) and work well in cool-water climates (poorly in warmer-water climates), while other units use coolants to do the same thing. Central units are highly effective and often work well with centralized heating systems, and like these, can be expensive to purchase and install. The upside to this type of system is that units are typically 12-volt systems and therefore can be used while cruising.

  While houses can use window-sized air conditioning units, typical boats don’t have that luxury. The second option is to purchase a unit that simply fits over a deck hatch. Some of these units can generate cool air as well as warm air (called reverse cycle) and can be very effective at helping to create a wonderfully comfortable environment without requiring structural modifications to the boat.

  Be aware that you may or may not be able to use these systems while cruising, and depending on the boat and installation, you may need to remove them and seal the hatches before you leave the dock. The units tend to be bulky and take up deck space, as well.

  One final option for air conditioning is the portable unit. These can be carried aboard, though they often require a port for venting. The advantage to these units is that they can be used anywhere, they will help to reduce moisture from the air, and they can be implemented with only a moderate cost and without labor or modifications to the boat. These units tend to be AC units and as such, are not designed for use while cruising.

  Storms and Blizzards

  Storms can cause problems for boaters, and while many boats are designed to handle heavy weather at sea, conditions encountered at dock can impose danger as well as significant discomfort.

  Throughout this book we’ve talked about ensuring that your marina is well-protected. Under normal conditions, this is simply a comfort issue. But when storms hit—particularly in marinas exposed to long fetches, such as coastal marinas—they can bring waves, tides, and extreme wind. You will most assuredly appreciate a well-protected marina under these extreme conditions.

  It is incumbent upon all liveaboards, just as it is upon all boaters, to follow the weather closely. When difficult conditions are expected, it makes sense to add fenders and dock lines to keep the boat from contacting the dock or any other boats. In extreme conditions, it makes sense to remove electrical and water lines that can be ripped from the boat and/or dock, causing electrical damage or otherwise damaging or flooding your home. Also be certain that anything that could fly off the boat has been secured or removed from deck.

  Since there is no place to hide when a storm is inbound, preparation and a well-protected marina are the keys to managing safely and responsibly.

  Snow and Ice

  I want to expound further on the subject of snow and ice, for they can introduce several potentially seriou
s dangers for the cold-weather liveaboard.

  Snow and Ice on the Dock

  I once walked down the metal ramp onto the dock at low tide (in Boston, it is a very steep walk down at low tide) and as I stepped onto the slick dock, I fell down toward the water. I stopped before I hit the water, but learned that hitting the dock even under the best of circumstances can be painful. Care should always be taken when the docks are wet or slick. Snow and ice require even more care.

  If there is snow on the ground, it is a safe assumption that the water is “friggin cold,” a temperature slightly below “damn cold,” which is a few steps colder than “cold.” As we all should know, swimming for even moderate lengths of time in “cold” water can result in diminished capacity, and ultimately hypothermia. Any time spent in “friggin cold” water can cause diminished capacity and hypothermia (and ultimately death) in a short period of time. Cheap advice is that when the water is friggin’ cold, don’t go in. And if you enter accidentally off a dock, it might be quite difficult or impossible to extract yourself, even under the best of circumstances. If you’re alone, you have big problems.

  Remove snow and ice as quickly as possible. My marina is responsible for the docks, while the individual boaters are responsible for their finger piers. Have a snow shovel and bag of salt to help remove any residual ice, and if there is ice, do everything necessary to ensure that you don’t slip and fall in. In the event that you do fall in, it would be nice to have a ladder around. Consider installing a swim ladder on your finger pier or otherwise near your boat, and hope you never need it. For those of you who reside in marinas that house liveaboards in the winter, it is your responsibility to make sure that the marina performs its obligations when it comes to maintaining safe conditions. For what it’s worth, there may be laws requiring that common areas be maintained in a safe condition.