The Essentials of Living Aboard a Boat

by Mark Nicholas

  Snow and Ice on Deck

  The first problem with snow and ice on deck is the danger inherent in any slick deck surface: You can be seriously injured with any slip or fall on deck, since fittings, lines, and obstructions abound. Falls off the boat can be equally dangerous, since a fall might involve hitting the fittings on the boat as well as the dock on the way to the water. It is hard enough to get back aboard when you are healthy, but getting back aboard once injured, particularly in cold conditions, could be impossible. I couldn’t imagine myself being able to get back aboard if I fell off, but my cat has managed to climb back onto the dock on two occasions.

  Obvious slipping and falling issues aside, freezing water is not supposed to be on your deck. Water has an amazing tendency to work its way into every available crevice—one perpetual challenge of boating is to find the newest leak and seal it. Aging fittings and sealant will ensure that water will always have some interesting and unexpected place to seep. Ice introduces major problems, since water expands when frozen and will pry the fittings off the deck, open up holes in the sealant, and cause deck delamination by prying the fiberglass off the deck core.

  Once, after I had removed my shrinkwrapping, a late-season winter storm produced so much snow that I could not easily get out, and opening the companionway hatch caused a substantial amount of snow to enter the living quarters. I told the story over some drinks to some other liveaboards and it turned out that many others had similar stories, including one person who spoke of being entirely unable to get out of her boat.

  This leads me to one last point regarding snow and ice. Snow is heavy and ice is heavier. Put a ton of it on deck and you have a boat that will sit a bit lower in the water. Push the boat down far enough, and water could start siphoning into the boat through through-hulls that were previously above water, such as sink drains and vents.

  This isn’t a theoretical problem. This situation occurred on a large scale in the Pacific Northwest of the United States in a region that does not often experience extremely heavy winter weather conditions. A series of late winter storms caused boats to become so heavy that many sank because of water siphoning in through their above-the-waterline through-hulls, openings that the boat manufacturers never expected would be below the waterline.

  The only solution to this is to make sure that every through-hull that could ever be below the waterline has a seacock installed, and that these seacocks are closed when necessary or not in use. This would have saved many boats that day.

  Other Safety Issues

  Every year, liveaboards in cold climates die as a result of their efforts to heat their homes. There are several initiating events, but typically two causes: fire and improper ventilation. Fires occur when hot space heaters make contact with flammable items contained within the boat. Space heaters can ignite when tipped over or when run for lengths of time. The wires can overheat over time and can ignite. Propane, a highly flammable gas, can explode. Improperly vented heating systems can release carbon monoxide into the living quarters.

  Boat fires are devastating. Boats provide very limited means of escape, and are often constructed entirely of materials that are flammable and/or release highly poisonous gases when burned. Boat fires often result in the loss of life; they have been known to travel quickly from boat to boat.

  Freezing docks and decks, as well as snow and ice, have already been discussed. A conscientious liveaboard can help to mitigate these significant problems with proper care and planning. Other issues to be aware of are:

  Hoses bursting. An internal hose that freezes can lose its integrity. In that event, when the ice thaws, water passing through a damaged hose will leak and depending on the water source may partially or totally flood the boat. Common burst hoses include those in the fresh-water system (the flood is limited to the amount of water in the water tank), city water system (the flood will occur under high pressure and will sink the boat), raw water intake or outtake (including engine, air conditioning and refrigeration through-hulls), and sewage through-hull (this may be prohibited by law, or the seacock may be required to be kept closed under coastal conditions). In general, it is recommended that responsible boaters close these seacocks when not in use, and when in use, owners should be aware and careful under all conditions, particularly cold weather.

  Many liveaboards in freezing conditions will shut down their internal water systems in order to prevent this type of damage. It is not sufficient merely to cease using these systems; it is critical that water be drained. It is not uncommon to add antifreeze to these systems and circulate the mixture until the fresh-water system is filled entirely with antifreeze.

  Another solution, for those liveaboards who wish to continue using their systems, is to heat all the areas where water resides (which may be difficult or impossible because of the proximity of water and holding tanks to the external walls of the hull), and to also wrap the water lines with insulation and heating tape, which can be plugged in and used to keep hoses warm.

  Surrounding areas freezing. Some environments freeze regularly, other environments don’t. All cold environments, even seawater, can and will freeze at some point. The freezing temperature for salt water is a little bit colder than fresh water, which freezes at 32F degrees, and moving water is not as prone to freezing as stagnant water. (As a fun tidbit, the freezing temperature of salt water is based on the amount of salinity of the water, typically about 28.5F degrees, although a physics guy on the Internet says that technically, salt water can’t freeze, for the salt and water separate at the water’s lower freezing point—explaining the salt mountains that form on glaciers. I haven’t verified this.)

  When water freezes around a boat, additional problems are introduced. Since water expands when frozen, surrounding ice can stress or even crush the hull. Even if that doesn’t happen, the ice is rigid and the boat could be damaged by colliding with it.

  There are a variety of methods to prevent ice from forming, including regularly breaking up any forming ice and placing bubblers around the boat to help keep the water moving and therefore liquid. Because of the damage freezing water can cause, this matter should be obsessively overseen.

  Protecting key systems and the engine. Water enters boats in a variety of locations; this is very normal. Many stuffing boxes (points where the rudder and propeller shaft enter the boat) are designed to allow water to move through in order to provide some lubrication so the shaft can spin. Over time, this water will accumulate in and around the engine and engine block as well as in the bilge, fresh water system (obviously), and holding tank. If this water freezes, your engine or other key systems may be damaged.

  Part of your winterizing function is to get this water out of the engine and the boat and “winterize” the engine and other systems to protect them. Often the best solution for this is to pump antifreeze throughout the engine and pour antifreeze in all locations where water might accumulate, namely under the engine, grey-water containers, fresh-water system, holding tank, and bilge. After the cold weather passes, this process is reversed.

  Ventilation. Another unfortunate cause of injury and death is poor ventilation. While this topic has already been discussed a bit and will be discussed at more length in the Safety and Sanitation section, we should at least here state that ventilation not only helps create a comfortable living space by reducing heat, but also ensures safety by adding fresh, clean air to the living space and getting rid of bad air. Heating systems might deplete oxygen. Heating systems that incinerate propane or diesel fuels, or other solid fuel, will produce noxious/toxic gases such as carbon monoxide, which could result in death. A leak in the exhaust system of a boat could do the same. A simple installation of a smoke detector with a carbon monoxide detector that operates on a 9-volt battery can be a very economical protection against this danger.

  Make sure that your home is properly vented so you can keep on living safely and comfortably.

  From Paradise to Hell

  Hurricane Francis Takes
Her Toll

  on Sam Densler’s Stories She Could Tell

  11. Safety and Sanitation

  Most of the liveaboards I know care very deeply about their surrounding environment. No one wants to sit on deck with the water surrounding his boat filled with floating sewage. Most of us like the smell of clean air and the look of clean water. We like to use clean bathrooms and keep our garbage contained in garbage cans and dumpsters with as few insects, rodents, and odors as possible. And we like to be safe and healthy.

  Unsafe or unsanitary activities have an immediate and direct impact on ourselves, our neighbors, and our environment. Not all liveaboards cherish the protection of the environment and overall boat safety to the same extent as the rest of us. I’ve been to marinas that have resembled dumps, where sunken boats remain in their slips and where there is evidence of oil and fuel leaks, as well as garbage on the docks, and dirty and smelly bins and bathrooms, all creating dreadful conditions. Liveaboards clearly come in all types.

  Safety is another concern that deserves our attention. Boats contain many things that can be extremely hazardous, both in terms of our health and in regard to the structural safety of our boats. Our safety problems may not be as noticeable as sanitation concerns, but they have a direct impact on our neighbors. Fire and storm damage are seldom limited to one boat, and it is often the heroic measures undertaken by fellow boaters—such as cutting boats loose from the dock—that save the marina and other boats.

  Safety

  Maintaining our boats in a safe condition is our most important job as liveaboards; this requires some work. It is our duty to be aware of potential dangers to ourselves, our crew, our passengers, and our boats.

  I have had the privilege of sailing with a terrific captain during one blue-water cruise and another highly skilled trans-ocean sailor during another ocean voyage. There were problems during both trips, and each captain reacted with lightning speed, thinking clearly and coming up with a plan of action before I had even grasped the problem. I have also sailed with captains who couldn’t tie their shoes during an emergency.

  On one trip in particular (the maiden voyage of the Fog), the captain and I were sailing around Cape Cod in subfreezing weather and I had just brought lunch up from below. With the captain at the helm, we had only just taken our first bites of lunch when all of a sudden the captain tossed the meal aside. Before I even asked him why he had done that, the captain was already reacting to the fact that we had lost our steering. We later learned that the rudder had jammed against the hull after a rudder stop had fallen off. Because of neighboring shoals, this had very quickly become a life-threatening situation, and the captain’s reaction may have saved the vessel and perhaps our lives.

  Solving problems quickly, as a captain of any vessel must be able to do, not only requires a helmsman’s knowledge, but also a thorough knowledge of the mechanics of the boat and the proper way to use safety gear. At that stage in my sailing experience, I don’t think I could have figured out the source of the problem. I wish that more boaters could have the opportunity to watch a top-notch captain react during an emergency. There is a calming nature to the decisions, to the thoughtful process and the brilliant reaction. Ultimately the trick is to know how everything works so you can quickly troubleshoot the problems that are sure to arise.

  As liveaboards, we are most typically our own captains, and yet it is surprising how many of us ignore the simplest safety precautions or, even worse, accept safety risks in order to save a small amount of money.

  In addition to having the proper safety gear aboard, be certain that you have the tools to handle most types of repair situations, including screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches, an electrical repair kit, plumbing repair kit, a knife, extra wire, hoses, wooden bungs, and hose fittings. In addition, filters, belts, impellers and other replacement parts should also remain aboard.

  Be sure your boat is properly secured to the dock with high-grade dock lines and high-quality fenders. Always have extra dock lines, of extra length, on board; these should be easily accessible to deal with other needs and emergencies that may arise…not just for your vessel, but also for others. Everyone will surely appreciate it when you have the basic equipment to react to the various situations that occur away from the slip.

  Potential problems such as falling overboard are situations that can apply to all boaters, and those risks, as well as prevention and rescue procedures, will be discussed in virtually every other boating book and course offered. I’ll leave those subjects to the boating experts, except to mention that great care should be taken to learn to use the safety gear you have on board. It was surprising to me how many captains in one particular transocean race had sea anchors on board that they had never deployed; they didn’t know exactly how they worked. The faulty use of safety equipment can be as dangerous as, if not more dangerous than not having it. I’ve heard of a situation in which a sailboat heaved to with its sails configured so that the boat was kept with its beam to the rough seas. This misapplication of one of the safest defensive sailing tactics ended up severely damaging the boat and seriously injuring one crew member.

  These problems are not theoretical. I, and many others who have spent time on boats and on the water, have many stories about difficult times. When I tell you that these things can happen, I mean to say that these things do happen.

  Fire and Fire Suppression

  Fire is extremely dangerous to people aboard boats, as well as to other boats and neighbors. Boats incinerate very quickly, generating poisonous gases, and are fueled by the many flammable items kept aboard, such as propane gas, cooking alcohol, and alcohol-based cleaners and thinners (acetone, methanol, paint thinner, and so forth).

  In addition, a boat, unlike a house, is not subject to zoning codes requiring multiple exits. Houses have windows of sufficient size for escape. Most boats generally have only one way out, and otherwise require exit through narrow hatches. To compound the problem, many boaters and liveaboards use space on deck for securing life rafts or other gear, particularly when under way, which may cover and prevent the hatches from being used. It is easy to get trapped in a boat.

  Boat owners react differently when they see a boat on fire at a dock; some will cut the flaming boat loose from the dock, and others will cut the non-flaming boats away. The logic to keeping the flaming boat at the dock is so the fire can be treated. If the flaming boat is cut, no one really knows what the boat will float into, which risks additional unknown damage. I don’t often read about fires being put out, but do usually hear of ignited boats burning to the waterline. I don’t know the right answer, except to say that many of these fires were preventable.

  The key to fire safety is not only preparation, but also detection and proper use of fire suppression equipment. Fire detection usually means smoke detectors. Be sure to install smoke detectors throughout, and test them periodically to ensure that they are in proper working order. Economical smoke detectors are fine; battery-operated units are easily installed and can work for extended periods of time with only a 9-volt battery. Combination detectors are better, combining smoke detection with carbon monoxide detection, a critical issue that will be discussed shortly. I understand that smoke/CO detectors can sniff out propane as well (although the problem with this is that since propane is heavier than air and sinks, by the time the propane rises to the level of the smoke detector, typically placed high up in a boat since smoke rises, the boat will be nothing short of a huge bomb).

  With respect to fire suppression, the Coast Guard has requirements for fire extinguishers. Personally, I don’t care what those minimal requirements are, since the best suggestion is to have more than the required number on board, in every berth and living space, with easy access. The fire extinguishers must be monitored and maintained to make certain that, if needed, they will function properly.

  There are fire suppression systems that may be used in the engine compartment as well. There is very little risk of a fire with a diesel engin
e, but because of the explosive nature of gasoline, a fire suppression system is often suggested for gas engines. These systems are typically halon and, if fire is detected, the system sounds an alarm and triggers the fire suppression system immediately.

  Propane

  Propane, often used aboard boats for cooking and heating, is an economical and efficient gas, but is extremely flammable and explosive. As an added problem, propane is heavier than air. A hull, which is by definition airproof and waterproof below the waterline, is the perfect basin to store the escaped gas. Leaked propane gas will sink and fill the bilge where, unable to escape, the gas will just wait to be ignited. And it doesn’t require a 30-pound tank to provide enough propane to explode; a leaking one-pounder can do the trick.

  There are many places in a propane system from which gas can leak: at the tank, the fittings, the hoses, or, in the event that a pilot flame goes out, right out of a burner.

  There are some highly recommended procedures that will significantly reduce the risk of a propane explosion on board. First, be sure that the propane tank is a “vented locker.” A vented locker is a location where any gas spilled or leaked out of the tank will be unable to escape to any point except through a vent placed at the bottom of the storage container, directing the propane off of the boat.

  On my boat, I do not have room for a dedicated locker, so I store my one-pound containers in a forward locker used for spare dock lines, which has a water drain that drains overboard. When I used a propane bulkhead heater (before upgrading to diesel) I would place the tank either on the dock or the very front of the bow so that leaking gas would spill away from the boat.